Food Good Indonesia

I often tell people that you can’t experience the true Bali unless you travel north a bit… in this case north meant jumping in an Avanza and driving an hour and a half uphill from Sanur on windy roads to Lakeview Hotel and Restaurant situated in Penelokan village on the crater-rim of the Mount Batur caldera. Mount Batur is technically the whole ancient volcano, but today refers to the smaller volcano emerging out of the ancient caldera. An hour and a half may seem a distance to travel for lunch, but I can assure you it is worth it.

Halfway into the journey, the AC was switched off and windows wound down and when we reached our destination our wobbly legs were thrilled to meet with the cool mountain air. Welcomed warmly by the restaurant staff, we walked through the main hall where a huge buffet spread was laid out and made our way to the outside seating area where we were hit with by the scenery – a breathtaking 1,215 metre above sea level panoramic view of Lake Danu with Gunung Batur towering above her. The view brings you back in touch with Mother Nature – a feeling we sometimes lose in our hectic modern lives.

We sat at a long wooden table decorated with banana leaves overlooking the view below and I watched as tourists enjoyed their boozey lunches whilst taking in the magnificent landscape – this is definitely somewhere to romance that special someone. Lakeview was founded in 1964 by Mangku Darta and has since developed from its humble beginnings as a homestay to a hotel with 20 rooms (two deluxe, eight superior and ten standard), a restaurant for lunch with 200+ capacity and Danu Lounge which is a more private and exclusive restaurant area for breakfast and dinner, featuring WiFi and a real fireplace to snuggle up next to during the chilly evenings. Our host, the beautiful and warm Melati joined us and after a heart-warming wedang jahe (warm ginger tea) and a chit-chat, the rijstaffel banquet began, and what a banquet it was.

We started with Organic Pumpkin soup, which was also ginger-infused and this was accompanied by garnishes of Acar (fresh pickled carrots, cucumber and pineapple with shallots and chilli), Tempe Kacang Manis (Sweet tempe stir-fry) and Serundeng kelapa (fried coconut garnish). As we helped ourselves to seconds, the clouds rolled in and enveloped us, turning the view into a whitey-grey canvas. This is when the jumper came in very handy.

Bebek Betutu (slow-cooked duck in Balinese spices) was presented to us next and was one of the favourites among our four-strong group. This was followed by Pork Satay and Satay Lilit Ikan (fish satay), Urab (steamed vegatables with roasted coconut dressing) and vegetable stir-fry accompanied by white rice and Bakmi Goreng (stir-fried egg noodles). Each dish was fresh and extremely tasty.

Dessert was a selection of fried banana, bubuh injin (black rice pudding), fruit salad and carrot cake. This sounds like a lot for sweets, but the portions are a couple of bite sizes for each, making it the perfect treat. This Deluxe Banquet costs Rp.225,000 net/pax and are made up of local ingredients, very important to Lakeview – bread is freshly made on the premises, as are the jams and I was told, soon the yoghurts.

After lunch, the rains started falling and although we were dampened, the atmosphere certainly was not. Legend has it that Bhatari Batur, Goddess of the mountain, gave birth to Dewi Danu, the Lady of the lake, and is extremely protective of her, which is understandable considering her beauty. The modern name Kintamani refers to the district and derives from Sanskrit meaning ‘peaceful place’, and peaceful it is. Lakeview holds several retreats, including a Writer’s Retreat and an Art Hideaway where one can paint and do batik surrounded by inspiration. You can also enjoy mountain walks and trek the two-hour climb up Mount Batur if you’re so inclined. Otherwise come up for a romantic getaway or to gather yourselves through meditation, just make sure you pack some warm clothes and are ready to welcome in the peace.

Lakeview Hotel and Restaurant
Jalan Raya Penelokan
Kintamani, Bali
Tel +62 366 52525
www.lakeviewbali.com

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Pyongyang is the capital of North Korea and the name of a restaurant chain operating outside of the fatherland. I had no idea what to expect from a restaurant run by the infamous North Koreans complete with North Korean staff.  I’ve always wondered why there were North Korean embassies and Ambassadors when emigration is forbidden and travel of its citizens are restrictive, but they do in fact have real live North Koreans living abroad. Some work for the Pyongyang restaurants, and we have one right here in Jakarta!

A big red sign with “Pyongyang” written in white lets you know you are at the right place. Inside a pink rumah makan on Jl. Gandria rests a piece of North Korea. It’s no surprise that there was a lack of windows and when windows existed so did the metal bars diagonally welted on. There is room for three parked cars outside with one car parked leading me to believe that Rolf and I were not the only curious-Georges today, or maybe the food is just good. We walked in and two ladies welcomed us in Korean, we spoke back in Bahasa as English was not an option based on the conversation we had making the reservation. One of the ladies wore polished and conservative office wear whilst the other wore a casual jean and shirt combo. They were polite, friendly and spoke in whispers. We looked around but we were the only customers there, the car must be owned by a staff member.

We were ushered to our table, trying to contain our excitement, looking around at what North Korea wants us to see or more aptly allows us to see. The decor was dated. There was a lot less red than I expected, just accents in the form of table clothes and knickknacks amongst beige wall paper and marble floors. There was a water curtain that was decorated with plastic shrubbery, a pleasant sight and a clever way to relax customers when they are in a room with no widows and flat screen televisions playing the Arirang Mass Games, with flashes of Dear Leader every so often, being watched by the staff at all times. The air of awkward prompted conversations of human rights and prejudice amongst Rolf and I.

We looked through the menu with great big pictures subtitled in English and Bahasa. We ordered a Mixed Mushroom, Roast Pork and Bibimbap. Then came four plates of something we hadn’t ordered. Our host told us these are our appetizers and named each dish, in Korean, as she laid them down.  I tried a diamond shaped pancake that had strings of scallion and carrots which tasted great, much like Bakwan with extra batter, but far too oily. The radish Kim chi was julienned and had sesame oil with plenty of garlic. The soy beans stewed in soy sauce was delicious, my favourite dish of the day. We could hear our host running to serve our food when she knew we couldn’t see her, though running in heels is never a silent affair. She was back bearing more gifts of food and removing our empty plates. The Noktumuk was enjoyed by Rolf though I found it slimy, bland and did not want to try to like it after my third attempt had failed. Coleslaw was a weird surprise as it originates from The Netherlands/Germany and has famously planted roots in American cuisine, but apparently it is an international favourite and part of North Korean cuisine. A plate with what looked like twigs tasted lovely, I asked our host what is was and she said “North Korean”, then I asked what vegetable it was, she then said, “Ubi”; tapioca stems presumably. The starters were generally flavourful, a good start.

The mains were hit and miss. The mixed mushrooms were a disappointment. The shitake mushrooms were a delight but the rest of ‘mushrooms’ had a resemblance to animal fat in texture and taste. It was inedible. The Roast Pork had a strong gamey flavour and the accompanying kecap was tasty. The Bibimbap was not very good. There was too much black bean paste which pronounced the pickled vegetables and clashed with the egg. A salty and sour mess.

Being so quiet, I do wonder if the rumours on foul play are true. It is pricey, amounting to Rp. 466.000,- for three dishes and two small Aquas, but to get income you need people to come in; paying customers. It does beg questions of legitimacy and motive. But overall it was an interesting experience that I appreciate though I would not come back.

Pyongyang Restaurant

Jl. Gandaria 58
Open daily for lunch (11 a.m. – 3 p.m.) and dinner (6 – 10 p.m.)
Phone: +62 21 72800889

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A lively South American restaurant in Kemang serving high quality, authentically cooked South American food. Open for just seven months, El Asador is already drawing crowds and it’s not just the meat lovers and salsa dancers!

El Asador literally means “the barbecuer”. Parilla is the name of this style of barbecue, a woodfire grill, which apparently in Uruguay can get up to sizes of 3×2 metres! The grill in El Asador is not quite that size, but you can’t miss the roaring flames at the far end of the restaurant.

This was not my first visit, more like the seventh or eighth (but who’s counting!) and for a good reason. As well as fantastic food and service, El Asador serves up fun! Eugenio Doldan, the charismatic owner of El Asador, is the life and soul of the restaurant. Originally from Uruguay, Eugenio has worked in and owned restaurants in Argentina, Brazil, Spain and more recently, lived in Melbourne for seven years before making the move to Jakarta. Eugenio’s passion for service is evident within seconds of walking in the door. You will always receive the warmest of welcomes from Eugenio and his staff, who are all lovely and attentive.

El Asador has a warm brick and wood interior with interesting pictures of all things South America covering the walls, and suspended wagon wheels on the ceiling. It feels casual and friendly, just like the service, and is not too over the top to a concept.

El Asador has live music most nights, sometimes Latin American, sometimes a cover band; we’ve always enjoyed the entertainment and had a great night out. Groups and large bookings are common, attracted by the live music and easy shared dining experience. Wednesday night is “Salsa Night” complete with a live eight-piece band and, not surprisingly it gets packed, so book ahead and bring your dancing shoes! Last Friday night they also had a gorgeous Cuban salsa dancer who was definitely a big hit with the guests.

The band is set up in the heart of the restaurant, but the terrace out front is another nice area with high tables for those who want to sit and watch the Kemang action go by. There is also a non-smoking section at the front of the restaurant.

The menu is full of mouth-watering options. There’s a nice range of sharing/starting options including quesadillas, a South American take on chilli fries, as well as bruschetta. We had a beef empanada to start, which was very tasty, made with good quality minced beef in a perfect empanada pastry crust. We all agreed the meat could have been a touch more saucy, but a yummy start to the meal. And matched particularly well with a cold Heineken!

At Eugene’s recommendation we also tried the Lengua a la Vinagreta Con Ensalada Rusa. I’m told this is a popular starter at South American barbeques. The plate held a generous amount of sliced boiled beef tongue, served cold with a delicious topping of parsley, olive oil, egg, garlic and spices. Accompanied by Russian salad (potatoes, carrots, peas and corn in creamy mayonnaise) this is a thoroughly enjoyable dish. The cold beef was melt-in-your-mouth tender and the topping added a great texture. I recommend sharing this between two as it is a generous serving.

For the main event we went with the El Asador signature, the parillas sharing meal, truly a feast of beautifully barbecued meat. The parillas includes asado (beef ribs), chorizo (beef sausage), entranas (inside skirt steak), and pollo el Asador (whole chicken leg). The meat is well marinated before it even meets the wood grill, and as a result it is superbly tender and full of flavour. The parillas is served at the table on a hot grill stand, which keeps it piping hot. The meal is also served with a green salad, plus your choice of a side dish and a sauce. Our favourite sauces are the homemade chimichurri salsas, which, in my opinion, go well with pretty much everything.

Whilst meat is the heart of the menu, there are options for those accompanying meat lovers, who themselves are not so inclined. We especially enjoyed the special Caprese Salad. El Asador only uses the best quality imported mozzarella, with lovely fresh tomatoes and olive oil. I’ve also had the Spaghetti Aglio Olio, cooked with good quality olive oil and the right amount of chilli, is an enjoyable meal. There are also a good range of salads and chicken options. Another favourite of mine is the Chicken Pamplonas (a boneless chicken leg filled with mozzarella, capsicum, olives and spice).

For dessert we had a beautiful Flan Caramel. A South American dessert staple, similar to the French Creme Caramel, and what the Peruvians call Crema Volteada, which literally means upside down cream. Seriously, this is too good to share, with anyone!

All of the meals are very well-priced, especially considering the quality of ingredients and serving sizes. You won’t leave hungry, that’s for sure.

I also have to mention the excellent coffee. Eugene is passionate about good espresso and swears by his Fema coffee machine and Illy beans. The coffee is really good and the espresso martinis are the best we’ve had in Jakarta. In fact, all of the cocktails here are made particularly well, and I can also highly recommend getting a jug of red wine sangria.

So, for a mouth-wateringly good barbecue, great cocktails and a fun night out, you really can’t go past El Asador. You’ll probably see me in there! Hats off to you, Eugenio and your wonderful staff.

El Asador is open 11am ‘til late, six days a week (closed Mondays). El Asador is well located in Kemang, just a few doors before Murphy’s Irish Pub at Jl. Kemang Raya No. 3 (ground floor of the Kemang Point Building). Ph. 0217182206 or make a reservation online at www.elasador.co.id

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Adrian Li – Qraved co-founder

In this edition of Indonesia Expat’s Business Profile, we meet a young gentleman named Adrian Li. Adrian is an internet entrepreneur and co-founder of Qraved.com, a website which allows diners to make instant reservations and find offers at hip and trendy restaurants in Jakarta. His portfolio of experience covers eCommerce, media, search listings, and product-based ventures. We delve a little deeper into Adrian’s business ethics and background to find out what makes him tick.

Adrian, where are you originally from? Tell us about your background.
I was born in London but my parents are from Hong Kong and Malaysia. I started boarding school in the UK at the age of 10, so I grew up spending time between the UK and Southeast Asia. Prior to starting my degree at Cambridge University, I also spent a year in Beijing to study Mandarin. After University I joined JPMorgan in their corporate finance group in London before going to the US to complete my MBA at the Stanford Graduate School of Business. While at Stanford, I developed the idea for my first company, Idapted, an online education venture. After raising two rounds of funding and growing the business, Idapted was acquired in 2010. Six months later, I joined Rocket Internet to start a market place for travel accommodation in China and then an office supplies eCommerce firm in Indonesia. I came to Indonesia because of the huge opportunities for Internet media and technology ventures and also because my wife, Vanessa Hendriadi, is from Indonesia. I am currently a co-founder at Qraved.com, a restaurant discovery and reservations service for Jakarta, and a Managing Partner at Imaginato, a web and mobile eCommerce technology development company based in China.

How long did it take to get the idea of Qraved.com off the ground? What challenges did you face?
Qraved initially launched in beta in September of 2012. It took us just three months to build the initial product and a core team. Unlike some other start-ups we did not face a technology development bottleneck because we used our development company, Imaginato, to immediately access an experienced and skilled engineering team to build the product. We learnt a lot in the first two months in beta about our product; what consumers look for and how we can help bring more diners to restaurants, which we used to maximise our launch product. We launched our full service in November 2013 and have had incredible growth since then – especially last month in February where we crossed the 10,000 diners booked milestone as well as over one million monthly views.

Tell us a bit about what your website has to offer to its users.
Qraved helps diners find restaurants in Jakarta with less time, hassle and in many cases, with less money. Qraved’s restaurant partners use our electronic reservation book technology to instantly confirm bookings, helping our users avoid Jakarta’s inevitable cell phone blackspots, but also enabling them to make bookings any time of day or night. The restaurants can also use this technology to offer time-specific and exclusive offers to diners – especially at off peak times when the restaurant may have a few more empty tables.

Do you have plans to expand the site to other cities around Indonesia?
Our service is focused on Jakarta at present, however we do expect to expand to Bali later in the year and the rest of the Southeast Asia region next year. Meanwhile, Jakartans and visitors to Jakarta can look forward to the first ever Restaurant Festival called EAT Jakarta, between April 21^st and May 18^th. During this event over 100 restaurants will be featuring specially priced set menus showcasing their best dishes (www.eatjakarta.org).

How many are in your team and what do you look for when hiring new staff members?
We are a small and hard-working team of 25 at Qraved; however, we are always looking for great talent to join us. When screening for new team members we look for people who share our vision, values and passion for the industry. We also prize attitude – hard working, team players above skill because we are willing to invest and train the right people with the skills to succeed in their positions.

Adrian Li

Where does Qraved.com stand in the Alexa ratings?
In Alexa we are in the top 1,000 rankings in Indonesia, however we typically measure our performance on Similarweb.com, where we are #14 in the food and drink category of all websites in Indonesia. Also, when we released our mobile apps, our iOS app shot to the top five and maintained this position for almost three weeks. Installing our app gives users instant access to all the information they would need on over 2,000 restaurant venues in Jakarta. You can download the apps for Android and iOS at http://www.qraved.com/qraved-mobile-apps.

With your expertise as an Internet entrepreneur, what do you foresee happening in Indonesia over the next few years with regards to the Internet?
One of the reasons I really wanted to come to Indonesia was because I could see many parallels on how the Internet developed in China from 2005-2011 and how it is developing now in Indonesia. The only difference I think is that what took six years in China will take half that time in Indonesia due to the speed of adoption and penetration of mobile Internet here. Fortunately, with the experience I gained from building Internet ventures in China, I have the benefit of hindsight in making decisions on how we execute and build the business, thus saving us time and money. I absolutely believe that Indonesia will be a massive market for Internet services and I think the tipping point for this is around two years away.

You are an endurance athlete in your spare time. Tell us how you got into this sport?
When I started working at JPMorgan, I found that I no longer had the time to compete in the team sports I used to do and within a year I had ballooned, gaining over 20% in body weight. That is when I made my first foray into endurance sports by signing up for the London marathon through a charity where I completed and raised over £3,000, and since then have completed six marathons around the world. Then, while I was studying for my MBA, I heard about the Ironman from a classmate. An Ironman is the longest distance of triathlon involving a 3.9km swim, 180km bike ride and a full marathon (42km) run. After a series of mishaps (I trained in 2005 for nine months but broke my wrist in a training ride three weeks before the UK Ironman), I had the opportunity to prepare for an Ironman event last year. I finally completed my first Ironman last year in Australia, finishing in a time of 13 hours and 2 minutes.

What do you believe is the key to success?
I think the keys to success are to have clear and focused goals, partner with talented people and hard work. Whether it is in my professional or personal life I make a point of setting up clear, measurable goals. I also believe that having the right team and support is critical to achieving success – there is only a limited amount that can be achieved as an individual but skills, capacity and dreams can be magnified by the right team. Lastly, I believe that hard work is a key ingredient to overcoming any challenge worth doing.

To contact Adrian, please email: Adrian@qraved.com 

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To evoke the Christmas feeling, some expats and locals who migrated to Bali talk about their Christmas traditions, and the things they miss the most. 

“I miss my family. To me Christmas is the time to be surrounded with your loved ones and cherish the moments together,” says Dinda Miani.

Dinda Miani is a Christian from Central Java who moved to Bali a decade ago. She is married to an Italian and both have shared a life between Bali and Italy over the last few years.

Panettone

In her husband’s Italian family, Christmas equals a three-day festivity with lots of traditional foods. The festivities start on Christmas Eve in a tradition called Wigilia, when presents are exchanged and sweets like pandoro (spongecake), panettone (spongecake with dried fruit), torrone (chocolate with nuts), and sapori (almond cake) fill the table.

For Christmas lunch, lamb chops (abbacchio), lasagna, roast beef, and potatoes served with salad, salami, prosciutto, mix cheeses, bread—and of course red wine—take over the table. Dessert like struffoli, a Neapolitan dish made from deep fried balls of dough covered with honey and dried cherries follows after, and the festivity is perfectly closed with whole chicken soup (brodo di galina) served for lunch on Boxing Day (26 December).

But unlike in Italy, her Christmas celebration in Bali sees less Italian foods. “I usually cook lamb chops and steak with salad, bake potatoes, beef rendang, fried noodles, asparagus soup, and mix fruit salad.”

Although it was easy for her to enjoy a Bali-style Christmas, her husband still needs something to please his Italian sweet tooth. “My husband does miss a lot of things, especially all the Italian sweets,” she says. “But we manage our craving OK. Usually we ask some friends or family to bring some foods we like when they visit us in Bali. Or we make our own struffoli; we can get the ingredients easily in Bali.”

When most of the rest of the world start their excitement on Christmas Eve, the Dutch steal the start way earlier, says Hebert Klooiman. “We start to give presents on 5 December, not put it under the tree on 25 December like others,” he recalls. “We put the presents in a big basket and pretend that Sinterklaas and his servants, the Black Piet, would have basically dropped the presents off by the back door.”

But the dining tables still remain empty up until Christmas Eve, when it’s suddenly filled with green and red decorations, which is later covered up with foods like pork loin with mustard sauce and boiled potatoes. “The Netherland doesn’t have any fantastic cooking, and has become less and less traditional recently. In Christmas, usually people either make a big poultry—we’re not very turkeyish—but what’s also happening is a lot of beef fondue, with sauces and French breads,” he says. “It’s very family-orientated. Usually one person does all the cooking, but nowadays you’re asked to bring some dishes.”

In Bali, Hebert invites nine to 10 friends to his house in Sanur and celebrates the island-style Christmas in his garden. Each guest brings food and drinks and shares the joy one day after the holy day. Unlike Dinda, Hebert isn’t really tied up with his traditional foods when celebrating Christmas in Bali and enjoys different choices of food, from foie gras to mixed southern European foods served in a 10-course set menu.

Some expats have incorporated beef rendang into their Christmas menu

“I usually start the cooking preparation days before, and on Christmas day I serve slow-cooked lamb and thyme that is prepared for six hours, lots of wine and also various cheeses. Most important is my homemade Italian cheese, which I make myself four months before Christmas. And smoked eel that’s usually what we eat in The Netherlands. It’s very, very delicious.”

“But the best thing about Bali is that you can find almost everything here, so preparing your favourite Christmas foods isn’t that hard,” he adds. “But the biggest difference is, of course, the family is not here, unless you have a family with kids.”

Interestingly, Dutch-origin food is something that one Bataknese misses for Christmas. Tressabel Hutasoit has been away from her big family for the last five years and always misses her grandmother’s cooking when it comes to Christmas.

“You know it’s Christmas when macaroni schotel, klappertart, vruchtensalade (fruit salad) and roasted pork with andaliman sauce—that’s very North Sumatran—are on the table. It’s a huge Christmas dinner,” says Tressabel. “Perhaps because Christmas in North Sumatra is something we inherited from the colonial missionaries, that’s why we have some Dutch foods in our Christmas supper.”

But for her, Christmas isn’t just about colourful festivities. Family is the core for this celebration, and being together with her big family is the most important thing of all. “We spend times together, thanking Jesus for all the blessings for the past years, singing carols with younger cousins and playing Bible trivia quiz. Those are the things I miss the most. Good fun.”

When away from her family during Christmas, she tries to pay for her absence by sending presents and calling them on Christmas day. “I miss the togetherness of course, but I always try to be back for Christmas if possible,” she says. “But if not, then I will go to church with friends. And since no one toss Christmas dinner or lunch, my friends and I would dine at our favourite restaurant for Christmas brunch usually on 25December. And we do Secret Santa too.”

For Finnish Joni Kalke, it’s the silence that he misses the most (and certainly not snow).

“The President announced national Christmas silence, so it’s time to be quiet and enjoy a few days on the table full of traditional delicacies, sharing presents and time with family. Christmas is a celebration we spend peacefully with family.”

According to Joni, in Finland people go to the cemetery after church to bring flowers to those who have passed away, then go home and spend a peaceful time with relatives while enjoying yule bread and casseroles made from rutabaga, carrot, and potato for the supper.

“But in Bali we never really cook any Finnish traditional Christmas foods, we only have a barbeque and vodka and beer, probably because most of us are a bunch of guys lacking Finnish mamas in the kitchen, and just want to get in the Christmassy mood. What we always do is surf in the day and go quickly to the supermarket and bottle store afterwards.”

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In Italy, a cantina is a kind of cellar found below most private residences, where the household’s wine, cured meats, cheese and pantry staples are kept. In these underground havens, the temperature is kept below 18?, and families often find themselves hanging out, slicing up parmeggiano and prosciutto, enjoying an impromptu get-together.

If, like me, you’ve ever fancied yourself as the Mamma or Papa in your own Italian family fantasy, the thought of this will appeal to you. Get ye, therefore, to Cantina 18?, which opened in South Jakarta’s restaurant-magnet district of Senopati about six months ago. It’s not about fancy surroundings and expensive menus, nor cheap and cheerful trattoria-style Italian dining. Cantina 18? offers you something in between: good food in a relaxed atmosphere. Perfetto.

We went on a Sunday lunchtime with empty stomachs, in preparation for a proper four-course Italian feast. The restaurant boasts two Italian chefs, Omar and Stefano. Omar took us through his specials menu, which changes at least weekly depending on the new, fresh ingredients he and Stefano find in the marketplace.

The focus here is on the authentic Italian charcoal grill, installed for your viewing pleasure along one side of the restaurant.

There’s no wood and no gas involved– it’s all charcoal, so as the flames lick upwards, offset by the deep Tuscan red of the dining room’s walls and napery, you know you’re in for a treat.

We started with antipasti. From the specials menu, we enjoyed a whole breaded and baked goat’s cheese (Rp.140,000), which oozed out onto generous piles of earthy parma ham – a simple combination which proves good quality ingredients is half the battle. We also tried the traditional Parmigiana di Zucchinie e Melanzane (Rp.73,000), a layered aubergine, courgette, tomato and mozzarella dish, which was homely and satisfying.

Antipasti is usually followed by pasta or risotto, and Omar explained how they make their own pasta with a chitarra (‘guitar’); an old-style method. With this, the kitchen can usually whip up any classic pasta dish you like – even if it’s not on the menu. We, however, were tempted by the specials’ tortellini, because Omar had recently discovered Korean black garlic tastes fabulous with his Taleggio cheese sauce.

He was right – in fact, I could have done with more of the sweet little slivers of tar-black garlic, but they certainly brought out the flavour of the crisp pancetta and meat stuffed inside the little al dente parcels of pasta. A delicious option at Rp.120,000.

Just as good was the Risotto alla Montanara (Rp.100,000), with homemade sausage, porcini mushrooms and truffle oil. This was as it should be: unctuously full-flavoured; and it’s a good price for those ingredients. The size of the pastas and risottos are easily enough for a main course, but we had bigger fish – and meat – to fry. The charcoal grill beckoned.

The chefs can prepare a classic Fiorentina steak (give them a day’s notice during the week), but there is also Wagyu rib-eye and Black Angus tenderloin – all great options for charcoal grilling. We went for a Sunday lunch classic: lamb chops (Rp.190,000). Perfectly cooked, they were soft and juicy with a lemony twang offset by the smoky charcoal. They came with veggies and some incredibly moreish cubed, rosemary potatoes.

Fish is often overlooked at grill joints, but happily Cantina 18? offers a comprehensive marine selection. They usually have fresh lobster or crab from Lombok, but right after Lebaran is prime growing season, so the fishermen are not allowed to catch yet. Instead, swordfish, snapper or salmon are good choices. We went for mixed seafood grill (Rp.160,000) which boasted a huge, sweet jumbo prawn, very soft squid skewers, and lovely fillet of firm white fish. These were breadcrumbed prior to grilling, and very tasty. The same delicious potatoes also came with creamed garlic spinach – solid grill sides, well executed.

It was great to see the owners doing something a little different with their wines – especially by the glass. The usual Sauv Blancs and Chardonnays found in Jakarta eateries are shoved aside for the more interesting, delicate Italian white Orvieto (Rp.85,000), which was a decent match for the seafood. For red, there’s a delicious Negroamaro Paololeo (Rp.90,000), an uncommon grape that went particularly well with the Taleggio tortellini. They also offer organic wines.

What would an Italian feast be without dessert favourite tiramisu? Every family has their version, and in this one, (Rp.50,000) presented in a martini glass, each element could be distinctly savoured without detracting from the creamy, decadent whole. Affogato (ice cream drenched in espresso, Rp.45,000) is a nice, lighter alternative.

All in all, if you’re looking for decent family fare of good ingredients, cooked with love and care, Cantina 18? serves it up just like Mamma used to, and makes for a great new addition to Jakarta’s Italian dining scene.

Cantina 18 – Italian Grill Restaurant

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Will Meyrick’s name is now almost synonymous with the emergent Indonesian dining scene, with an ever-growing list of restaurants and accolades, from Sarong to MamaSan; Seminyak to Kuningan. He’s known for riffing on a Southeast Asian theme, but for me, the Meyrick hallmarks are simple: quality, flavour, and creativity.

Safe to say, then, that Hujan Locale is the natural progression of the Street Food Chef’s restaurants. For some time prior to this project, Meyrick had been making a point of sourcing his ingredients from local providers as much as possible. It follows then that Hujan Locale should pop up in Ubud, Indonesia’s spiritual zenith and health-food haven, where you can barely make it across a broken pavement without tripping over a raw-food, ethically-sourced vegan cafe. Reflecting this ethos, Meyrick helpfully points out the vegetarian, gluten- and nut-free dishes on his menu.

The restaurant is in an old, high-ceilinged house, overlooking a beautiful, typically Balinese courtyard next door. Indochine-chic complements the cool-grey walls, and a lovely breeze passes through the windows of the top floor space.

As we sipped a few of the bartender’s more inventive cocktails – another Meyrick trademark – the man himself popped over to recommend a few dishes. Whereas MamaSan and E&O are unmistakeably pan-Asian, Hujan ‘Locale’ keeps it quite literal. “It’s different to our other restaurants,” Meyrick says, “in fact we’re changing the menu up to become even more Indonesian and Balinese.”

Dining at Hujan Locale

Indeed there are some real synergies between Balinese cuisine and that of Thailand and Vietnam, as Meyrick’s dishes often demonstrate. Lots of Indonesian food is fairly sweet and rich, but in the tropical paradise that is Bali, these flavours give way to salty, sour, and fragrant elements, courtesy of herbs, galangal and lemongrass – just as they do in the salads and soups of Indochina.

Exhibit A was some superb local squid, crispy with rice flour on the outside but soft in the middle, in a spicy salad of julienned ginger flower and crisp-fried Thai basil leaves. Herbs play a big role in Meyrick concoctions, and at Hujan Locale these are fresh from the kitchen garden. The ginger flower was refreshingly different, and overall this was a salad that packed a real punch, especially with its accompanying chilli jam. So too did the Tuna Tartare with watermelon and sliced banana flower. Generous chunks of spankingly fresh fish were perfectly complemented by the sweet, juicy watermelon. Two delicious, light starters to begin with.

What, I ask you, is a meal in Bali without the wonder that is pork? Babi ‘genyol’ was Meyrick’s take on this classic: slices of pork belly stewed in a soup-like sauce fragrant with turmeric was the main attraction, but it was almost overshadowed by its accompaniments: great homemade Balinese ‘urutan’ sausage, and fantastic ‘krupuk’ made from farm-to-table pig’s ears. They boil the ears first, then dry and deep fry them really hot, to make a brilliantly crunchy and obsessively moreish snack: Bali’s answer to pork scratchings.

Next up was Sulawesi barramundi with sambal dabu dabu, which, I discovered, is also from Sulawesi and firmly my new favourite sambal; made with sour onions and green tomatoes. The fish was baked in a salt crust, a Mediterranean technique which locks the moisture in and results in soft, flaky flesh – a real star dish.

Betutu, a Balinese specialty

Finally, the Balinese speciality of ‘betutu’ – usually with duck – was given the Meyrick treatment. A generous portion of chicken was cooked in the traditional way: in lots of bumbu (a spice paste with kencur), underneath rice husks in the backyard overnight. The meat was very soft, and the dense, distinctly Balinese flavours danced around the palate.

It is imperative to leave room for something sweet at a Meyrick restaurant – his are some of the most innovative and straight-up debauched desserts I’ve had in the archipelago. There’s also a whiff of nostalgia about them. Take the Ovaltine parfait for example – which managed to taste both exactly like Ovaltine and much, much better – or perhaps decadent chocolate cake with brilliant peanut butter ice cream. Finally, a real winner was the lemongrass panna cotta. I’ve had lots of interesting variations on this creamy Italian dish in Indonesia from chefs who think they’re being clever. But this one did not disappoint – refreshing, and just wobbly enough.

The wine list is out of the ordinary, and happily, some of the better bottles are offered by the glass, including a delicious, mineral-y Grüner Veltiner from Austria. The restaurant is a great spot for a relaxed lunch. Hide here, out of the heat from the midday sun, and while away a few hours in between unbelievable Ubud shopping sprees. Equally, the well-stocked bar and cool atmosphere promises just as much fun for a night of cocktails, as you share a few dishes with friends and soak up the unmistakeable atmosphere of this unique town.

The clincher? I almost forgot all about the ‘conscious eating’ angle, embarrassingly enough. Hujan Locale is such a class act, it could have been peddled by the nefarious golden arches of McDonalds and I wouldn’t care. So by all means, choose this restaurant because it sources from local suppliers and treats them well – you’d be right to do so. But I’m a simple soul. I’ll go back because it tastes so darn good.

Hujan Locale

Jl. Sri Wedari No.5, Ubud, Gianyar, Bali 80571

+62 (0) 361 8493092

hujanlocale.com

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A South Jakarta hotspot for oenophiles and foodies

Tucked neatly away at the end of a long hall of cafes and restaurants at the open-air Cilandak Town Square (aka CITOS) is an expansive bottle shop and full-service restaurant aptly named W&S (Wine & Spirits). The moment you walk into the space it’s as if you have entered Jakarta’s take on the foodie Mecca Dean and Deluca, but in this instance, for all things wine and spirits related. The smooth lines and white-tiled walls are even strangely reminiscent of the eponymous fine food purveyors, and provide a very conducive atmosphere for slowly browsing their large retail bottle collection. It is the destination spot for budding oenophiles and hip urbanites in South Jakarta.

W&S in CITOS

For many who are uninitiated in wine, selecting a bottle for a group may be somewhat intimidating at most establishments. Whether you desire entry-level Chilean reds to pair with burgers from the kitchen or you select a gorgeous 2008 Barolo ripe for slowly savouring over the course of the evening, at W&S, there is a wide range of wines from around the world to accommodate all palates and occasions. And if you still don’t know what to buy after spending a good 30 minutes browsing, there are wine experts who can help you decide. However, if wine isn’t your thing and you’d rather have cocktails, there is a full bar and spirits on offer. Whiskey, scotch and bourbons all have a strong presence in the bottle shop. Step into the Limited Products room and for the person with the large expense account there is a lovely bottle of Bunnahabhain XXV Single Malt Scotch Whisky just waiting to be snapped up.

Don’t let me scare you, though, with my talk of expense accounts and rare (in Jakarta) Islay whisky. The best aspect of the bottle shop is its relative affordability. A bottle of the 2012 Beringer Founder’s Estate Pinot Noir is Rp.450,000, which for most of us in Jakarta, is a relative bargain compared to other drinkable pinot noirs. However, if you really want my opinion on the matter,

I would suggest the aforementioned 2008 Beni di Batasiolo Briccolina Barolo at the higher price point; ask the staff to decant the bottle and enjoy it with only the best of friends – good wine should never be wasted on people whose company you don’t enjoy.

And what better way to shower your friends and family with your appreciation than with a gift basket filled with a lovely wine bottle or two, complete with wine glasses, chocolate, nuts or whatever else you may want to include.

W&S stock a large selection of wines

Another nice aspect of W&S is their flexibility. You can purchase bottles for consumption on-site, to take home, and bottles can even be delivered to your office or home if you are crunched for time before your next big dinner party. For the under-aged and alcohol-free, there are refreshing mocktails that are as pretty to look at as they are to drink.

Should you choose to dine at W&S, Chef Arnold Budiawan has created a menu based on American comfort food. The Pan-seared Dory and Rotisserie Chicken are tasty; one whole juicy chicken can feed a party of four and is accompanied by a couple of side dishes. Tip: pair the rotisserie chicken with a bottle of well-chilled 2014 New Zealand Babich Chardonnay. Chef Budiawan has had extensive experience cooking in the USA, with stints in Las Vegas, Washington DC and Los Angeles, and his menu reflects that time spent in such great American food centres.

W&S Rotisserie Chicken

For special occasions and private parties, the staff are extremely helpful in devising set menus from Rp.175,000-250,000 and making wine selections based on your preferences. W&S also holds special events once a month that oftentimes involve dinner with wine pairings and brand ambassadors who showcase their wares, most recently with the popular California label Beringer.

Afternoons are peaceful and quiet, with the main dining room a conducive environment for business meetings or leisurely family lunches. Evenings are a different matter. Happy hour consists of beer and cocktail specials, but as 8pm rolls around, the resident DJ takes over on Wednesday through Saturday nights and spins tunes into the wee hours for the young and beautiful. Every Thursday evening W&S also hosts The Parade, a live band that plays Top 40 tunes.

All in all, W&S caters to quite a diverse clientele who really enjoy their wine and cocktails. The staff is extremely competent and willing to work with their clients, whether it be a single bottle purchase or creating a set menu for a private event. There is nothing that comes close in South Jakarta to W&S in terms of ambiance, service and bottle selection, but this should not come as a surprise, as it is born from the same people who own and operate Bluegrass Bar and Grill.

W&S

Bottle Shop-Eatery

Cilandak Town Square GF-D048

Jalan TB. Simatupang Kav. 17

Jakarta 12430

Telephone: +62 (021) 7592 0249

Instagram: @wineandspiritsjkt

Facebook: WineandSpiritsJakarta

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US-based restaurant chain Hooters will open its first Indonesian location in Kemang. But will the nation’s conservative culture let it fly?

Earlier this week, the media reported that US-based Hooters will soon open its first Indonesian location in Jakarta’s trendy Kemang district, a neighbourhood that has lots of international residents and is most likely to accept the so-called ‘breastaurant’ — yep, that’s an industry term, for real. Surprisingly, Hooters did not choose tourist-laden Bali as its first location in the archipelago.

Last year, the Georgia-based chain revealed its plan to open 30 restaurants across Southeast Asia, including Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, the Philippines, Singapore, Vietnam, Hong Kong and Macau. In Jakarta, Hooters will open next to the popular bar Eastern Promise on Kemang Raya, as pre-launch signs have already indicated.  

See: Scams In The City: Transgressions Of Tolerance

While Americans usually don’t bat an eyelash when they drive by a Hooters restaurant back home, the decision to bring the chain to Indonesia is a risky play. Indonesia is home to the largest Muslim population in the world, and as such the culture is conservative in nature. Many Muslim women in Indonesia wear hijabs, and it’s somewhat rare to see locals showing a lot of skin in the light of day.

It’s fair to say that the archipelago is a world away from western countries in terms of what the local society deems appropriate. While Jakarta is much more open, diverse, and accepting, Indonesia is also the country where Sharia Law is practiced in Aceh, and people can receive corporal punishment in the form of public lashings for sexual indecency. It will be interesting to see how the market accepts Hooters’ chicken wings, and breasts.   

Will Hooters be popular in Indonesia, or will it be snuffed out?

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Have you tried Pastis? No, not the French liqueur, the Mediterranean-come-Italian Kitchen and Bar in Aston at the Kuningan Suites. Although this oasis is considered semi-fine dining, the service, cuisine and décor oozes fine dining.

In Pastis, your derriere is spoilt for where to park. Choose to sit at the elegant bar where a 4.5 litre bottle of Chivas lives, (tempting, I know) in the nonchalant restaurant which accommodates one very long bench-table which encourages mingling, on smaller dining tables which peer out onto a striking tree-lined garden where you can also relax comfortably on lounge chairs under chic sunbrellas. The sight of the white walls, white colonial-style windows and shutters, white kitchen cabinets filled with colourful fruit, the hanging French ceiling fans along with pots, pans and cooking utensils encased in vine leaves and the dark wooden ceiling beams above the restaurant hit you all at once. This place really is charming and you feel as though you are in someone’s kitchen/dining room (a very spacious one I might add) in the Mediterranean.

Courtesy of Pastis

There is also a self-contained lounge to the left of the restaurant where smoking is permitted, and on weekend evenings, a house-music DJ spins his decks to a hip young crowd. During the day, this lounge feels very bright and cosy as natural light streams in through the large white-paned windows with romantic white colonial shutters. In addition to all this, Pastis has its own wine cellar where you can purchase very fairly priced Italian, Chilean, Argentinian and Australian wines.

So what did we eat at Pastis? I think the question is what didn’t we eat? The smiley Chef James tickled our palettes with a Brie and Apple Salad with Salmon Carpaccio and organic greens, then he indulged us with Homemade Gnocchi Gorgonzola, Spinach Ravioli al Pesto, USDA Beef Tenderloin which was cooked to perfection, Australian Lamb Chops with Mushroom and Thyme sauce, and upon instructions to, “Make room in your belly for dessert,” spoiled us with Vanilla Panna Cotta, Apple Strudel with Italian Vanilla Gelato and a Hot Chocolate Melt. This feast was followed by a very strong blend of Italian and Vietnamese espresso, which left us buzzing for the rest of the afternoon.

“We serve the best possible food at the best possible price,” says GM Raymond Marcel Zuest, and just from glancing at the menu you can see that this is true.  A bottle of their house wine is priced at Rp.325,00++, their cheese platter Rp.140,000++ and during their new Acoustic Ladies Night on Wednesdays, a lavish barbeque buffet will only set you back Rp.138,000++ per head. That and free cocktails from 6-8pm for the ladies accompanied by live acoustic music makes this an irresistible spot to relax in on a Wednesday night.

courtesy of Pastis

Delicious and unpretentious food, service with a smile, a comfy yet stylish white setting which feels like nowhere else in Jakarta, a place to have a romantic candle-lit dinner in a private garden (any offers, gents?), and Chef James’ smile are a few of the many reasons to make a trip to Pastis. I also mustn’t forget to mention their daily happy hour, which is a staggering four hours long (from 4pm – 8pm) and tempts you with two draught beers for the price of one. Well, I definitely know where I’m going after a hard day at the office, don’t you?

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Jakarta may not seem much from an outsider’s perspective, but for us that live here, we know that hidden within the city’s walls are little pockets of cool in places most people wouldn’t think to look. We found a little French art nouveau bistro tucked away at the back of a modern building on Jalan Kemang Raya behind an interior design shop – who wouldn’t think to look there?

With high ceilings and lots of natural light, Madeleine’s interior has left no detail overlooked. Designed by Aileen Rahman, mother of DJ Riri, a famous Indonesian DJ who has been on the circuit for over 20 years and coincidentally is one of the owners, this artsy bistro feels much like a hip loft conversion. Floors are made of concrete and dotted with less than new-looking carpets and the dining area is made up of wooden tables and chairs as well as sofas decorated with brightly coloured plush cushions ideal for a coffee break or just for hanging out, which Jakartans do best. Frames of all sizes adorn the walls, inspired by the affinity that Paris has for frames and oversized potted plants light up in the evening to give the bistro an ooze of je ne sais quoi – best enjoyed with friends.

So why come here? On the menu is traditional French food and Indonesian food with a French flare. DJ Riri tells us they don’t want to be a fine dining restaurant: “We are a serious bistro where you can dine casually and enjoy fine food.” You can also enjoy their friendly staff and hilarious Operations Director and/or Maitre d’ Susilo who speaks very good English and will be more than happy tell you all about every dish on the menu in detail. Signature dishes include Foie Gras aux Pommes Caramélisées, Vol au Vent de Fruit de Mer and Ballotine de Volaille aux Cèpes and Fillet de Boeuf au Porto for mains. Starting with some homemade bread with delicious herb butter, we sampled some of the delights on offer.

The seafood Vol au Vent is a puff pastry with a spinach sauce and fresh salmon, mussels, prawns and squid on top and tastes were a mix of crispy, creamy, fresh and savoury. We also sampled their take on the classic Caesar Salad which had a surprising twist of Dill, adding a freshness to what can oftentimes be a stodgy salad.

Before the mains, a refresher of Pineapple Sorbet was served to cleanse the palate and this was followed by the signature Filled de Boeuf au Porto. This steak was sweet, succulent and soft, perfectly seared and rested which retained all the moisture and flavour and was presented rested on top of a bed of minced broccoli and accompanied by fragrant red wine reduction which was flavourful but not overbearing with a nice tartness complimenting the caramelised shallots.

For pasta we sampled the Gnocchis Fait Maison, homemade potato gnocchi cooked well and dressed with a creamy mushroom sauce with pine nuts and sliced Portobello mushrooms, flavourful with a zest that cut the cream perfectly. All dishes were beautifully presented. Of course we had to try a desert and cracked our way into a Crème Brûlée revealing a thick and creamy delight infused with real vanilla pods and served with pumpkin seed brittle, sliced strawberries and a raspberry jelly. Delicious.

Prices are a bit pricey, but this is because everything is homemade and most ingredients imported. “We could use local produce, but it would impair the taste,” says Susilo with a grin. If you value interior design and great food, take a gander into Kemang 89 Building, check out the colourful happy chic home decorations on sale and settle in for an enjoyable meal at Madeleine. Bon appétit!

Madeleine – French Bistro
1st Floor, Kemang 89 Building
Jl. Kemang Raya No. 89
South Jakarta
021 7179 4538
info@madeleinebistro.co.id

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Cali Deli is a Vietnamese chain of deli-restaurants that gained its inspiration from a restaurant in California and established itself in Jakarta 7 years ago. Although Pho would come to mind for most people when discussing Vietnamese food, Cali Deli specialises in Vietnamese sandwiches with an Indonesian twist (they do of course offer broth soups and various appetisers).

Mrs. Ching Ching Sumampaow found that the Vietnamese sandwich she had in California lack lustre and upon her return to Jakarta decided to open up the first Cali Deli combining Indonesia’s love of flavour with the Vietnamese sandwich. Madame Ching is also available in selected venues offering Chinese cuisine.

Novee Cheung, Advisor of Cali Deli & Madame Ching, explains that taste is just as important as nutrition. Fresh products are used with a favourable balance between carbohydrates, proteins and fats with a good amount of vegetables for taste and health. They prepare everything from scratch including their crunchy baguettes.  Vegetarians fear not! They do have a Veggie sandwich with absolutely no meat.

I had the Turkey sandwich and the Spring rolls for lunch. The Turkey sandwich was good and filling. Turkey is a lean meat that is low in fat and high in protein, one of the healthiest meats available to eat, though lean meats are prone to dryness from the lack of fat. The turkey slices in the sandwich were cooked well and stayed moist.  My personal taste finds that most sandwiches have a too high ratio in meat to vegetables. When you order a sandwich with meat as the selling point, it is the main ingredient and vegetables are more decorative.

Cali Deli uses the vegetables they put in the sandwich as a sidekick to the meats, it’s a well balanced pairing of flavours and textures. I cannot vouch for authenticity as I’ve yet to sample a traditional Vietnamese sandwich, but trying Cali Deli has put Vietnam higher up on my bucket list of future culinary adventures. The Spring rolls were good, though I made the mistake of eating it after my sandwich which anyone who has tried to cook with rice paper knows that it dries up quickly without a wet clothe to cover.

Cali Deli has Indonesian inspired sandwiches that merge the local love affair with flavour and Vietnam’s zest for fresh and herbaceous seasonings.  Indonesian style Vietnamese sandwiches include Chicken Satay and Beef Satay. The most popular sandwiches are Turkey, Chicken Lemongrass and Cali Love (black pepper beef). Madame Ching recommends their Beef Rice Noodle Soup, Fresh Spring rolls and Dry Green Noodles.

Cali Deli

Cali Deli Menteng
Jl. Surabaya no.22, Menteng
Phone: 021-98011061/62

Madame Ching

Madame Ching Menteng
Jl. Surabaya no.24
Phone: 021- 3155145

Madame Ching SCBD
Jakarta Stock Exchange
Ground floor
Phone: 021-5154844

Madame Ching Senayan        
FX Mall F1
Jl. Jend. Sudirman
Phone: 021-25554129

Cali Deli and Madame Ching

Sampoerna Strategic
Jl. Jend.  Sudirman kav 45-46
lt.mezazine
Phone: 021-57903272

Codefin Kuningan
Jl .HR Rasuna Said kav B-3
Phone: 021-57933734

Promande Building Lot 16
Jl. Warung Buncit Raya no.98 Pejaten
Phone: 021-7991546

Grand Indonesia
West Mall foodhall, basement
Jl. MH Thamrin no.1
Phone: 021-23580156

Jasons Senopati
Jl. Senopati Raya no.8
Phone: 021- 29332861/ 98277299

Jasons Ampera
Jl. Ampera Raya no.22
Phone: 021- 78835147

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The quaint district of the old Citadel Street, now Jalan Veteran, houses a few great secrets. For the epicures of Jakarta, Jalan Veteran’s Dapur Babah Elite, near Monas, is a well-kept haven a little ways away from the hustle and bustle of the newer parts of the city.

‘Babah’ itself is a term that came about around the colonial times in Jakarta to describe the fusion of the East and the West; when Dutch-influenced Javanese women married Chinese settlers. The half-breed mixture of the two cultures resulted in a new blend of rituals and spices in the kitchen. The Javanese women were familiar with many spices that are native to Indonesia; with the help of the incoming Chinese heritage, new flavours were introduced, creating a mixture we now call peranakan cuisine. Hence, the term ‘Dapur Babah’ (Babah Kitchen), where the food is derived from all things ‘Babah’.

As I stepped in to the restaurant, greeted by friendly staff, a completely different Jakarta meets the eyes. Owner of Dapur Babah and its sister establishments of the Tugu Group, Anhar Setjadibrata, is a long-time collector of Indonesian antiques. So much so, that every room in Dapur Babah and the rest of the Tugu group restaurants – Lara Djonggrang, Samara, and Shanghai Blue 1920 – are designed to tell a specific story using the antique items he’s acquired over the years. The Garden area, for example, is a portrayal of the original Babah kitchen of the early 20th century; the pots and kettles displayed here are original pieces, and the Goddess Protector statue is typical of a Babah kitchen, as a deity figure that oversees the quality of the kitchen and its cooks. Dapur Babah has clearly chosen each item in the restaurant with careful consideration.

Dapur Babah adopts the philosophy of ‘Bringing art, soul and romance of Indonesia’ into its design. And it’s quite true; romance plays a big part in creating the atmosphere at Dapur Babah with its signature dimmed lights, cosy booths and the use of photographs of the Babah ladies from back in the day. The place is divided into a few rooms; the Kwan Im Room, where large party diners can have a private gathering, the Megawati room, Tao bar area, the Garden area, the VOC room, and the Angela Room. The Garden area is the only non-smoking section of the restaurant, as it is an open-air terrace area.

Dapur Babah takes pride in having art, soul and romance not only displayed in the interior, but the food as well. Dapur Babah’s signature peranakan cuisine has roots in Javanese spices, the Dutch’s rich flavours, and Chinese sweet and spicy seasoning. All three languages were incorporated into the menu. As I was a first-timer, I asked for their specialty dish and drink. Rosiany Chandra, PR for the Tugu Group, recommended Nasi Tjampoer Babah with delight. But not before first ordering a drink; I went with the Mahadeva Garudasana and my brother went with the Sleeping Buddha. Mahadeva was very refreshing; a concoction of tea, muddled mint leaves, strawberry and palm sugar. The Sleeping Buddha was a delicious combination of soursop, milk, and vanilla ice cream. A bit too heavy for me, especially for dinner, nevertheless it was amazingly fresh.

After drinks, the appetizers were Tahoe Goreng Petis, fried tofu with sweet shrimp paste as the dip, Maccaroni Schottel and Bitterbaletjes. The shrimp paste used in Tahoe Goreng Petis was sweet and savoury at the same time, and well-paired with the fried tofu. Bitterbaletjes are round croquettes made of potato and meat that was very rich, but after eating it with the yellow carrot and cucumber pickle garnish, it was even tastier. But the winner of the appetizers, I would have to say, is the Maccaroni Schottel. It is simple ‘Mac and Cheese’, with a Dutch twist, that is usually overpowered by the heavy use of cheese, yet Dapur Babah used just the right amount that I could taste the texture of macaroni and ham, without it being drenched in cheese. Quite the comfort food!

Then came the signature dish, Nasi Tjampoer Babah. We also had Petjel Pintjoek, a mix of steamed vegetables with peanut sauce and rice in a banana leaf, as well as Ikan Goreng Moelet Garing Boembon – fried fish that has been marinated in spices and grated coconut. Even the sound of it is mouth-watering. And yes, they were great! Nasi Tjampoer Babah consists of rice, complemented with nine different types of Javanese side dishes; from shrimp skewer to marinated beef and sautéed tempeh. Nasi Tjampoer typically uses white rice, but at Dapur Babah it is infused with Pandan leaves; making the rice green and lavish in aroma. Such a treat!

Dapur Babah is happy to offer a dining experience in which all your senses can be entertained. They even offer a Grand Selamatan Tafel in which the traditional Nasi Tumpeng – a cone-shaped mountain of rice and its side dishes, usually served at parties and feasts – is transformed into a ceremonial procession where Dapur Babah’s staff carry an augmented version of this dish in a palanquin and enter the room with fanfare. It is one of the most interesting dining experiences, I would imagine.

We finished the night with the famous Es Tjampoer Babah; shaved ice with young coconut, tropical fruits, coconut milk, and the unusual but delightful selasih seeds. Something sweet – but not too sweet – and exotic to end the night with.

Dapur Babah has a relaxed environment and casual dining attire is acceptable. It’s quite a place if you’re looking for a unique restaurant with great peranakan food. No doubt, Dapur Babah’s approach is ‘food with a story’.

Dapur Babah Elite
Jl. Veteran 1 / 18-19, Central Jakarta
(021) 7060 2256 or (021) 385 5653
dapurbabah@tuguhotels.com

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Al Nafoura Restaurant

Amidst the craze on new and trending Asian and European restaurants typically found in the Senopati or Sudirman area, one should consider going off the beaten track and discover a treasure such as Al Nafoura. Nestled comfortably in the Le Meridien hotel in Jakarta, Al Nafoura is not the archetypal hotel restaurant; it boasts a fine-dining Lebanese cuisine – with added surprises.

Al Nafoura was established in 1998 when the Lebanese expatriate community in Jakarta started to grow. Since its opening, more and more people have grown fond of Al Nafoura’s cuisine; even local Indonesians in between many regular expatriate patrons. Executive Chef Hussein Sleiman, having previously worked in Lebanon and Dubai, added great contribution to the taste and work ethics to Al Nafoura.

Al Nafoura (meaning ‘fountain’ in Arabic) has beautiful Lebanese interior designs. As you enter its premises, you’ll be greeted by charming fountains. Arabic-influenced décor presents a romantic and warm environment, even in the daytime. At night, Al Nafoura appears more intimate with its strategically placed dimmed lights and stone walls to create an exotic atmosphere. The music also contributes to creating a traditional Lebanese ambience.

Hummus

The menu displays options of authentic Lebanese food, and some from neighbouring regions such as Moroccan and Egyptian cuisines. I was delightfully surprised that the set of choices features a myriad of vegetarian options amongst an array of grilled meat and kebabs. We were advised to try the mezza for starters, which is a combination of small platters of appetizers, similar to that of Spain’s tapas and Italy’s antipasto. Our mezza comprised of platters with tabouleh (Rp.49,000), hummus (Rp.49,000), babaganoush (Rp.46,000), samboussek (Rp.45,000) and more. The hummus was infused with Tahini, which is imported from Lebanon. It was one of the best traditional hummus I’ve had; the fusion of savoury chickpea, Tahini, olive oil and a bit of lemon makes for a tasty dip. Another ‘best’ is the tabouleh, a parsley salad with tomatoes, onion, garlic, etc. The best thing about this tabouleh is the use of just the right amount of cinnamon (yes, cinnamon) and lemon juice; such a refreshing and palate-exciting appetizer. Naturally, piping hot pita bread was part of this mezza as well; it was a very delicious first course that we enjoyed even alongside our main course.

A special theme is introduced every month at Al Nafoura; this month is all about Middle Eastern seafood. The Samakhara Ma Farika (Rp.178,000), a special grilled salmon entrée was a delightful hearty dish with hara sauce. Sprinkles of peanuts were added to the tangy yet savoury hara sauce, making it all the more interesting. A note-worthy addition to this dish is the steamed green cracked wheat as a nice substitute for rice. My partner chose the mix grill (Rp.185,000) for main course, which consists of lamb kebab, grilled chicken and beef, complemented with oriental rice. The grilled chicken was marinated in yoghurt and traditional Lebanese spices before it was grilled, which resulted in a supremely tender and flavourful white meat. Alongside the mix grill was an extraordinary garlic sauce, made of potato, garlic, lemon juice, etc. The Haruf Ouzi is another popular choice for an entrée; it is grilled lamb, marinated overnight in spices and vegetables.

Dessert – Helwa & Baklawa

For dessert, the baklawa (Rp.60,000) is a must-try; although reduced in sweetness to accommodate our palates (traditionally, baklawas are known to be very sweet), I appreciate the genuineness of the nutty pistachio paste. Another dessert served was Om-Ali (Rp.45,000), a comforting bread pudding with milk and puff pastry. The consistency is not unlike oatmeal inside the puff, and raisins were present to liven up the flavour. We washed it down with some Moroccan mint tea, although, when available, it is recommended that one tries the Lebanese coffee – rumour has it, if you’re lucky, Chef Hussein would do a tasseograph reading of coffee grounds once you are done with the drink. The coffee is strong and is usually enjoyed together with sweet desserts, such as the baklawa.

Chef Hussein is a visionary who created the perfect balance between authenticity of taste with the right amount of consideration to local palates. None of the food on the menu is that spicy – Lebanese food is not typically spicy – but guests are welcome to request for special condiments or potency of spices if they’d like, and Chef Hussein will adjust wisely and accordingly. In fact, one of Al Nafoura’s regular guests – who feels the need for some more spiciness in one of the dishes – requested for specially-made chilli that was henceforth known as sambal Mahmoud.

Al Nafoura Rating Info

When asked about her thoughts on the philosophy of the food at Al Nafoura, Arie Ardianti, Marketing Communications Manager said, “We are proud to serve healthy Middle Eastern food. We use olive oil instead of regular cooking oil, we serve vegetables as guests await their food and almost none of the items on the menu are fried or use excessive dairy products.” Although the portions are quite large, I find the food not greasy and the ingredients used are fresh and invigorating – lemon juice is widely utilized in most dishes.

It is best to come to Al Nafoura at night time, where the ambience is more relaxed. As the restaurant overlooks the Le Meridien’s swimming pool, a refreshing surrounding is found as you dine outside on the patio area. This is the only smoking area of the restaurant, and inside – adhering to the hotel’s non-smoking policy – is strictly a non-smoking area. You can even enjoy shisha smoking on this terrace area upon request.

If you come on the weekends (Friday and Saturday nights), you are in for a treat; a free belly dancing show is available for guests. You can also take advantage of the Saturday buffet at Al Nafoura for your weekend brunch.

Come with a hungry stomach and be prepared to relish in exotic seasonings as you fully appreciate Al Nafoura.

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There are many heated debates at the moment about diets – things have changed significantly over the last century and we are understanding more about nutrition and its impact on our health. Over the past year I have met vegetarians (who don’t eat meat), vegans (who don’t consume any animal products, including dairy and eggs), pescatarians (vegetarians who eat fish), and raw-fooders (who only consume uncooked or live food). Then there are the free rangers (who only eat animal products that are free range), the organic group and the fruitarians (who only eat fruit and vegetables).

Diets have even been used to cure cancer; Dr. Gerson’s cancer treatment included hourly glasses of organic juice and coffee enemas. Yet alternative natural treatments are often discouraged by medical boards, which unsurprisingly advocate conventional medicines that often have harmful side effects. Many plants high in antioxidants, vitamins and nutrients grow well in Indonesia’s climate and some of these plants have known anti-cancer properties, including tumeric, ginger, red fruit (buah merah), moringa (daun kelor), soursop leaves (daun sirsak), pineapple, noni juice (mengkudu), carrot and beetroot. More people are becoming aware about the health problems associated with processed foods, which aren’t fresh and often contain colourings and preservatives.

Yet perhaps the most promising diet of all is raw food, growing in popularity across the world for its health benefits, since it is argued by nutritionists that cooking can lead to a loss of vitamins and toxic, cancer-causing compounds can form during frying. The best-selling book, The China Study, even examined the relationship between animal-based foods and diabetes, cancer and heart disease. Now the raw movement has reached the shores of Indonesia, with some exclusively raw cafes opening up in Bali, including Soma, Alchemy and The Living Food Lab and The Seeds of Life in Ubud. Performers Woody Harrelson and Demi Moore have propounded the raw diet; the former opened a raw food restaurant and featured in the documentary Simply Raw: Reversing Diabetes in 30 Days. But what exactly is a raw food diet and how is it beneficial to the health?

Raw, vegan keylime pie at Klear Cafe Ubud

Naturopath and nutritionist Karen Bartz explained it as follows in her book Raw Food Reawakening, “Raw food is just that, uncooked, preferably organic, even better live food (sprouts or food picked and eaten within two hours). Also food hydrated at low temperatures, about 45 degrees Celsius.” A dehydrator is a type of oven which removes the water in the food but keeps the enzymes intact, enabling the raw-fooder to change the texture or create bread, crackers and biscuits. I recently met Karen, who often organises raw food events in Bali with her movement Teach the World Raw, and I sampled her impressive food. At first I was expecting something cold and bland, but I was amazed by her inventiveness with textures and tastes. Based in Australia, her aim is to encourage others to learn about the benefits of raw, organic food and she opened Australia’s first raw food school called The Raw Living Institute. Since Karen eats what she cooks, her creative taste-buds are in full control and she has come up with many warm, delicious recipes. 

Karen first discovered the raw pathway after experiencing overwhelming fatigue and pain – unable to gain a diagnosis from her doctor, she began researching about raw food diets in order to help with her health problems. “The problem with pharmaceutical medicine is they make a potentised synthetic version of what’s available in a herbal plant – you have all the side effects and need to start taking extra medication to counteract them. Once you discover for yourself something such as the universal truth of raw food for ultimate nourishment and healing, you cannot keep it to yourself. It is like a divine birthright for all and you wish to tell and inspire as many people as possible to try it. Our highest goal on this earthly plane is to help others. I ate raw in the hope of healing my body, I did not expect to have an awakening experience simply from what I was eating but that is what happened. I was fortunate enough to be so ill I thought I was dying; once you face that and lose all fear, then you have it. Not to say I am without fault, I am just human like everyone else.”

Some believe that the raw claims are overcooked – absorbability of nutrients and side-effects must also be considered and careful research is advised before anyone undertakes a new diet to get the right combinations and quantities. But what is clear is that all foods contain more nutrients in their raw state.  

Creative raw food pizzas by The Seeds of Life in Ubud, Bali

Keen to learn more, I asked Karen if she had any tips for anyone intrigued by raw food. “Yes, start! Do not fear it, you will know in your body and mind from your results. You get so clean and clear then you can access your own inner wisdom – all the answers are within you, raw food just helps clear the path. You may suffer some detox, so you must commit for three months at least. On all raw food you get so much energy and such a sense of who you are, your purpose here on earth and the energy to do it! Just imagine a world full of people like that!”

Although the raw food diet often incorporates lots of juices and salads, steaming or slow cooking is sometimes used for those who enjoy a warm meal. “The simpler you can keep it, the better. Avoid all grains and gluten. You can have a little brown rice, quinoa, things like dahl and chickpea stew. These are the best warm foods. I eat no animal foods whatsoever, no grains, no processed foods – only some cooked vegetables or dahl, chickpea curry, occasionally cooked quinoa or brown rice. But I still feel it is beneficial to do a long raw food experience, I did one year, 100% raw. Then you have a benchmark.”        

Karen will return to Bali in February where she hopes to establish a raw food school in partnership with a local enterprise. She has picked the perfect location and I can only hope that the raw food movement continues to grow across Indonesia.

Further Information

Karen Bartz B H Sc Nutrition, B H Sc Naturopathy – www.teachtheworldraw.org

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