Food Good Indonesia

This new restaurant has the X factor. When you enter, you feel class ooze out of its multi-faceted walls. Surrounding you are sculptures, carvings, and paintings that hang from the extremely high ceilings facing down on you. There’s a lot to keep your eyes busy in Negev, including the large attention-grabbing wall carving behind the long bar titled ‘Evolution’. But don’t be put off by its grand designs – Negev is a casual dining restaurant and gallery bar with warm hospitality, spicing up the culinary area of Kuningan in Jakarta.

Negev is still a new kid on the block, opening only 6 months ago and is one with ‘The Harvest’ cake shops where I believe the best cheesecake in Jakarta comes from. Food and Beverage Director, Eric Gouteyron created the desserts at Negev as he does at The Harvest. Hailing from France, Eric has been a pastry chef his whole life, working at the River Cafe in New York for 17 years and was based in Dubai before he moved to Indonesia one year ago. “I worked with many Indonesians in Dubai. They’re very nice people and that was the best team I had actually,” he tells us, partly why he made the move to Jakarta.

In Dubai, Eric worked with Chef Chandra who coincidentally is Negev’s Executive Chef. “Dubai in 2007 was fun and full of competition,” says Chef Chandra. He moved from Dubai to a five star hotel in Jakarta, rejoining hands with Chef Eric at Negev again by accident and without forethought. Kismet? Well the proof is in the taste and tasty it sure is.

The menu is East meets West and presentation is inventive. We sampled a juicy Salmon from the Grill, served with a Papaya Barbeque sauce, followed by Spring Baby Chicken, Beef Ravioli and an incredibly rich and moreish Mushroom Risotto. Thumbs up to Chef Chandra. Try the Mushroom Soup which wins the best looking dish prize.

Then came the moment I’d been waiting for… desserts. Chef Eric proudly brings forth a warm Sticky Toffee Pudding with Butterscotch Sauce and Vanilla Cream which made me want to wrap a blanket around me and snuggle up in front of an open fire, followed by the beautiful Negev Chocolate Bar, a name that doesn’t do this dessert justice – Dark Chocolate Sebayon Mousse, layered Crunchy Praline with Coffee Ice Cream, caramelized Pine Nuts and Nougatine with homemade Marshmallow. Presented so inspiringly and with so much care, this dessert is a must try and make sure to take the perfect bite, loading your spoon with a bit of each segment to truly appreciate all the flavours that make up this masterpiece. Felicitations Chef Eric.

The Negev is a desert in Israel and this Negev is an oasis in Jakarta. A great place to entertain with impressive lavish interiors and equally delicious cuisine and a place which will have you coming back for more.

Negev
City Plaza Building – Ground Floor
Jl. Gatot Subroto No. 42
T: +62 21 52971333
www.negevresto.com
Closed on Sundays

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SLAM Sky Bar

Sky Lounge at Mercure, S.L.A.M, is on the 19th floor of the newly opened Mercure Simatupang.  Slam is in a roof top lounge bar that has an open-air section as well as an air-conditioned room. The open air section has a mix of styles which translates to funky and modern. Comfy contemporary rattan chairs juxtaposed with mood lighting, graffiti panels on the top of two side walls connected by one wall made of window panes and a traditional dark wooden bar gives the outdoor area a hip, youthful and funky vibe. Behind the bar is the air-conditioned salon, reminiscent of a cigar room, the furniture is classy with a statement one-seater made of denim in the corner nestled in between the view of suburban Jakarta.  A keen eye for detail and a passion for fashion and design can be felt from Slam. I adore the Slam uniforms: a black fedora, beige skinny slacks, thick braces and a black short sleeved collared shirt which makes me think of Clockwork Orange meets the prohibition era meets skinny jeans. The staff are very friendly, speak English perfectly and are happy to chat or give their two cents if you are a bit lost of direction. To summarize Slam in three words: eclectic, funky and friendly.

Crusted Salmon

Slam offers the same menu as the downstairs Grafitti restaurant, international cuisine, healthy options and Asian selections, though it is served as the room service version to keep the food unaffected by the shuttle up 19 floors. If you are looking for a bar experience and don’t want a full meal, they also offer bar nibbles. We sat in the salon to have our dinner and ordered mocktails to begin, Sunset and I am Joker. The Sunset is made of fresh passion fruit, passion fruit syrup, orange juice and topped with soda water, and the I am Joker is made of fresh chopped apples, muddled kiwi, kiwi syrup and again topped with soda water. The mocktails were fresh and fruity and presumably two of your five a day. We then had the Crusted Salmon, accompanied by white wine sauce, thin fries and vegetables. I could see why the Crusted Salmon is a popular dish. The salmon was well cooked, fresh basil mixed with the breadcrumbs gave the crust a fresh taste and a hint of green that looked lovely against the orange salmon. The vegetables, cauliflower, carrots, green beans and baby corn, tasted like they were blanched then tossed in garlic infused oil. The white wine sauce was great, I could have had it as a soup. It was creamy and full flavoured with fresh hints of lemon, a really wonderful sauce. Next we had a few of the nibbles – Fish Balls, Chicken wings and Maki roll. The Fish Balls are homemade and battered. The Chicken wings had fresh rosemary as opposed to dried rosemary which gives a more intense flavour, a nice little gourmet touch to bar snacks. The Maki roll had vegetables, namely red pepper with a dusting of tobiko on the outside.

Mexican Dragon

For our after dinner drink we moved from the salon to the outdoor area. Fed, full and free, I got a cheap thrill from watching the traffic riddled roads crawl and enjoying myself, waiting upon our cocktails, instead of being one of the victims of that traffic jam. We had decided on a J-tini and Mexican Dragon. The J-tini is a mix of Jack Daniels and Sweet and Sour. The Mexican Dragon is made from Tequila, red dragon fruit and Cointreau. The J-tini was tart and fresh, garnished with a young sprig of mint. The Mexican Dragon was sweet and slightly tart. I would have loved to try more cocktails but drinking on a school night is usually not the best idea.

Jakarta is rather pricey for going out with the alcohol tax and for hotels, they have 21% added on top of that. Slam is not cheap nor expensive but as hotel prices go, very reasonable with cocktails starting from around Rp.80,000. Slam holds special promotions regularly – the next one in the third week of March entitles you to a shot of tequila for only Rp.25,000 nett, which will be a night to remember and a morning to forget. To find out more on events and promotions you can sign up to their newsletter by emailing Mercure Simatupang at H6680-RE@accor.com, or give them a call.

Mercure Jakarta Simatupang
Jl. R.A. Kartini No 18
Lebak Bulus
12440 – SOUTH JAKARTA

Contacts
Tel : (+62)21/75999777
Fax : (+62)21/75999798
Mail : H6680-RE@accor.com

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Every time I pass Jalan Batubelig I am drawn to a place called Bow. This two-story building with garden wall has no way of telling what kind of place it is; all I can see is their sign (written as 3OW) – a big smiling emoticon on its glass door. But as I enter the smiling door, the tempting aroma of foods from its open kitchen invites you to go further in…

Young smiley staff greet you by bowing, and I am surprised to see radiant green paddy fields from its windows — a little secret that is well kept behind this restaurant. Decorated with a Mediterranean touch, big Arabian lamps, chalk boards, mosaic tiles on the walls, and warm lighting, I feel like I am in someone’s dining room in the Middle East.

The first floor is air-conditioned, furnished with rattan chairs and comfy couches. It is also completed with a fake chimney to make you feel cosy and warm, despite the fact that it’s boiling outside. Upstairs, the restaurant’s ambiance is completely different. It has a real Bali atmosphere where guests can enjoy a balcony overlooking the rice fields with volcanoes visible as a backdrop when the sky is clear.

During the day, this space is perfect for a nap after lunch, especially when the breeze blows slowly. The owner told me that many of his guests feel this restaurant is like home; many have fallen asleep on the couches because it’s so comfortable.

The idea behind Bow is to give something to accommodate everyone — air-conditioned spaces, outdoor areas, big screen TVs displaying cartoons and toys for children. And this doesn’t end at their settings as the menu provides choices of foods that also reflect this flexibility and creativity.

Open for 12 hours, from 11am to 11pm, Bow caters for all day dining from brunch to dinner. The menu is inspired by the owner’s travel tales and experiences of living abroad, with foods from several countries that bend the ordinary dining concept of serving foods based on a certain cuisine. From Brazil’s Fejioada to Haiti’s Grillot Pork and the Mediterranean’s Mezze, you could travel the world at Bow in one day. Bow is also a haven for brunch hunters. When many restaurants in Bali only provide brunch on the weekends, at Bow every day is Sunday.

Fresh fruits or vegetable salads, choices of eggs from Mexico’s Huevos Rancheros to Eggs Benedict, everything comes fresh and in a generous portion. They also serve fresh homemade breads and bagels served with selections of salmon salsa and asparagus or roasted veggies, and pita breads.

For vegetarians or those who prefer healthy-eating, a choice like grilled eggplants mixed with vegetables and topped with melted cheese in coconut soup and spinach, is very tempting. Rich in creamy flavours and vitamins, not only did this dish please my taste buds, it also made me feel good. For carnivores, the Hungarian’s pride Goulash made from Australian prime beef in thick stew can be a good choice for dinner, especially if you pair it with a glass of Pinot Noir that would only set you back Rp.75,000 a glass.

Seafood lovers will be pleased with calamari stuffed with oats and rice in rich tomato sauce. And its perfect match is Bow Mary, Bow’s version of the bloody mary made from tomato and celery juice, garnished with peppers, prawn and cherry tomato on a stick, priced at Rp.75,000 only.

The best thing about Bow is the price — everything costs less than Rp.100,000. Some foods also have two options of prices where customers can opt for a smaller portion with a cheaper price, so no food will be left behind. They also have promo menu available with special prices.

With such affordable pricing, it’s quite surprising that Bow can serve food of such a high standard. I asked the owner about this, and he answered that he only takes a small profit and wants to make this restaurant accessible for all types of customers, from teenagers to families, from staff to ambassadors. Everything is fresh and the ingredients are wellsourced. It’s a place to relax and meet friends over good food, and to celebrate the fact that every day is Sunday in Bali.

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Would I summon the nerve to barge uninvited into the Soviet Embassy, to plead – not for asylum – but for rye bread? The plan was to walk into the Russian Embassy and ask whether any of the diplomats’ wives made heavy bread, and if so, whether I could plead with them to sell me an extra loaf. Having arrived here in 1988, I pursued my first order of survival: Locate. Black. Bread.

For without my vollkornbrot, pumpernickel, kraftkorn, dark rye or nine-grain bread I knew I would pine away, miserable and forlorn. The country’s simple explanation is that food – and bread specifically – is a very serious business.

I decided against approaching the Russians.

I had already experienced one ‘false dawn’ when I first spotted Holland Bakery – the one with the kitsch windmill turning lazily on the roof. Five hundred varieties of white flour, sugary, gooshy and mostly tasteless buns, loaves, rolls and cakes, and not a sign of anything natural. A colossal disappointment.

Kem Chicks

Jl. Kemang Raya no. 3-5, Jakarta. Tel. (021) 71790065

Also a branch in the basement of Pacific Place (Sudirman Central Business District, just off Semanggi cloverleaf).

Eventually I discovered Vineth Bakery breads, sold along with other bakery items in Kem Chicks, Jakarta’s oldest expatriate-oriented market. Most were tasteless white-flour numbers, but there was a handsome Pain de Campagne, an acceptable sourdough and what then was the best kraftkorn in Jakarta. “No!” I commanded the daffy young thing heading for the slicer, “Please don’t cut up that nice loaf!” Where I come from we break bread.

Kem Chicks, along with Grand Lucky, also sells Lees Bakery products, including a lovely packet of raisin rye slices which would complement a kaffeeklatsch; their other breads, including kraftkorn and multi-grain bread, are also reasonably wholesome.

Vineth Bakery

Jl. Panglima Polim Raya No. 63-65, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta.

You’ll note from the website photo of its near-empty shelves that Vineth, located in a rundown building at the corner of Jl. Barito, is quite popular, so get there early to buy bread.

CONSUMER ALERT: There are also occasions when certain bakeries and supermarkets try to palm off day-old bread as ‘fresh’, but a true bread-lover will demur. Does the loaf have that fresh aroma? What if I give it a gentle squeeze (which of course you cannot do if the bread is hiding on a shelf behind a bored-looking girl)?

Home again. I park the motorcycle in front of Blacky’s Image Lounge and prepare to have a sesame butter, avocado and honey kraftkorn spread. My local friends peer doubtfully at its rough texture and dark colour – they’re always curious about my strange foods.

“Oh, can I try a little?”

Reluctantly, I slice off a thin bit of kraftkorn and pass it to Budi.

Budi makes a face. “It’s hard.”

Rudi tries a bite.

“It’s not even sweet. Tasteless.”

“Yes,” I nod vigorously, anxious to add to their dismay. “I told you, you wouldn’t like it. It’s European punishment food. From the war, you know.”

I thought I’d succeeded in discouraging them, but the next time I bring home a Rp.50,000 loaf they’re laying in wait for me.

“Say, this is actually pretty good, especially when you cover it up with strawberry jam.”

There goes my investment.

Animo Bread Culture

No. 69 Jl. Kemang Raya. Tel. +62 (021) 719 2681

I will open my odyssey to modern Jakarta bakeries with a spoiler: Animo is the clear winner.

This charming coffee house features a cornucopia of freshly-baked pastries, rolls and breads; celestial aromas greet you if you visit late morning, and you can enjoy hot bread, fresh from the oven.

Passion for baking is Animo’s motivation, and owners Muhammad Abgari, aka Agam, and his wife Fasty Adriani Putri founded Animo based on their love for fine bread.

I happened to show up before noon, just as loaves were issuing forth from the oven. The aroma told the tale: an aromatic almond cranberry roll, with just the right degree of crispness in the crust, a fresh French baguette, its flaked tan surface covering an airy, delicious interior, and a walnut raisin bread which is not only textured and tasty but at Rp.50,000 a loaf, one of the best bargains in Jakarta.

Outside, tables on a covered veranda are ‘smoker-friendly’.

Animo Bread Culture also features baking classes for enterprising hausfrau.

NOTE FOR BARGAIN BETTYS: Drop by Animo after 18.00 for a “buy one – get one free” deal on the day’s leftover breads, rolls and pastries.

La Boulangerie Authentique

Jl. Kemang Selatan 1, No. 2c, Jakarta. Tel. (021) 718 0011

While there are just three tables and several high stools (filled with patrons – mostly expats – during my short visit) the place offers an opulence of pastries, tarts, cakes and breads. Their busy kitchen also turns out quiches, salads, sandwiches and baguettes.

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Our expert epicure continues an undercover operation to bring you the truth about Jakarta’s dining scene. No spoon is left unturned in the quest for honest, balanced reviews, from long-established favourites to the hottest new tables in town. 

This month, a South Jakarta expat favourite, Koi Kemang.

Everyone knows Koi. It’s the easy, go-to, expat’s fail-safe. Friday night drinks, a mid-week dinner or Saturday brunch; it’s there for you, standing sentinel on Kemang Raya like a venerable old lady of the night, beckoning you inside with her somewhat dilapidated charms. With its trendy, industrial-chic interior – no doubt furnished by their gallery upstairs – and its gently thumping basslines, Koi promises a certain reliability, tinged with a hint of nonchalance. Come in, and have a decent night, it says. Or not. See if we care.

We sat in the optimistically-titled ‘non-smoking’ section, fumes drifting over from the bar, at one of the spacious wooden tables with comfortable wicker chairs. Along the wall, ranks of denim-covered sofas were full of Koi’s regular clientele. Many of the patrons here seem to have confused the restaurant with their living rooms and lounge about as though they’re wearing stretchy trousers and watching Oprah. Still, this is evidently an essential part of the laissez-faire approach to dining embraced here.

We began proceedings with a glass of Hob Nob Chardonnay, which was perfectly quaffable with our starters and cheap at Rp.85,000. The menu here is vast. Koi began life as an Asian restaurant in the 90s at its first location, Mahakam, near Blok M. When Chef Benoit Claeys joined the ranks in 1998, the menu benefitted from his Belgian influence, by way of brasserie classics.

Now, it is the Del Boy of menus – a jack of all trades; arguably gastro-master of none.

The recent addition of fresh pastas further bolsters a roster that now ranges from noodles to couscous to paella to steak. It’s a veritable smörgåsbord of choice; a death knell for indecisive dinner deliberators.

We chose a new starter, lobster croquettes, which were slightly oily from the fryer and not as hot as they should have been, but still tasted convincingly of lobster and potato. It’s probably not my top choice as a filling for a croquette – jamón or cheese is usually more successful – but this was not bad. Salmon carpaccio was decent, simply served with slices of radish, and accompanied by a nice, homemade garlicky-herby cheese. At Rp.70,000 and 75,000 respectively, there’s nothing to complain about here.

Mains were hit-and-miss. The Classic Burger with cheese (Rp.115,000) unfortunately had little flavour, and the patty was well-done instead of medium as requested. Adding a relish or mayonnaise would keep things moistly interesting here. The US Hanger steak (Rp.175,000) was quite tasty; juicy and flavoursome with a nice red wine and shallot sauce. However, we had to send it back to be cooked more as it was rare instead of medium-rare – clearly either communication had broken down between wait staff and kitchen, or the kitchen staff were doing their own thing that evening. They also forgot our mushroom sauce, which was cold when it eventually arrived. On the flip side, the chips (served with both) were well-seasoned and the side of spinach with garlic was generous and tasty.

Desserts are a strength, and it’s another big menu with lots of choice, from crêpes to waffles to apple pie. We enjoyed the Crunchy Chocolate ‘pot de crème’ with caramel mousse, served in a mason jar. This was an inventive idea, granted with room for improvement on the execution (the caramel was a bit sweet, and they could finesse the crunchy chocolate bites and the smoothness of the crème), but it was pleasing to see something different that tasted good. The monthly specials menu boasted a tiramisu, which we were encouraged to order. The sponge fingers were slightly dry, probably because they skimped slightly on the booze when soaking them, but otherwise this was decent and we had no problems cleaning the plate.

The bar area has that sort of ambient lighting more readily found at a Seminyak beach club, with sports playing on TVs above the shelves. Cocktails here are not the best in Jakarta, but they’re not bad. The wine list is long, reasonable, and split by style. We chose from the ‘Rich, Dense Reds’ list a 2011 Argentinian Alamos Malbec (Rp.600,000) which was well-kept, rounded and balanced.

Looking around, a mix of local and expat punters happily chowed down on easy crowd-pleasers like nasi campur, quesadillas and sundaes. Koi is not attempting to do haute cuisine – it simply relies on its customers’ affability in continuing to order from such a mixed-bag menu. I will always insist that whenever a chef chooses to churn out several cuisines in the kitchen, one style will always ‘win’, remaining their forte. It is not clear which one this is for Koi Kemang. What is clear is that whilst there is some room for improvement, overall they deliver value-for-money and a certain aloof dependability regulars appreciate. They’re not trying too hard – or if they are, they certainly don’t want you to know about it.

The wait staff are a young, friendly, slightly hapless bunch, who on this particular evening suffered the misfortune of having no napery to offer customers (well, after all, it was still wet from the laundry – what were they to do?) Instead, they plied us with paper napkins until dessert, when the linens deigned to show up, with precisely the insouciance this cheeky restaurant epitomises.

Cheque please!

Food: Rp.630,000

Drinks: Rp.685,000

Service: 10%

Total: Rp.1,591,150 (inc. taxes) for two

—

Koi Kemang

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The seasoned traveller and street food chef of Mama San, Sarong, Hujan Locale, and the soon-to-open Tiger Palm brings an eclectic mix of traditional and uber urban to his popular venues. He talks to us about his interest in the Asian cuisine culture inspired him to open his restaurants.

You are originally Scottish but born in Portugal. Tell me about your background.

My parents lived in Beirut before the war, where they had my brother and sister. Then they moved to Peru, then Portugal where I was born. After that, we moved to Italy. My father then moved to Spain and I moved to Scotland with mum. I was very used to the expat lifestyle; that’s why it’s never been hard for me to live in any part of the world as I do now. I left Europe when I was 21 years old and went to the US before travelling around Asia. I moved and worked in Australia for a while before coming back to Asia.

What inspired you to become a chef and subsequently a creator of unique restaurants?

I started learning cooking not because of passion; I just had to find a career, since I was not very academic. I tried cooking, and I had to prove to people than I could do it. But then, when I was travelling around Asia I fell in love with the culture, and the food. What I see in Asia’s cuisine culture is what inspired me to open my restaurants. With the collaboration between my business partners and me, we try our best to introduce Asia’s cultures through our food and venues.

Explain how street food brings us closer to the true cuisine of an area.

The streets and villages are the places where you can find authenticity. Most of these people got their recipes from their families, from generation to generation. I do add little tweaks to the dishes, especially the way we serve it, which is inevitable. However, my goal is to keep the taste authentic and introduce it to a wider audience.

Your travels have taken you all over Asia; Southeast Asia in particular. When did you decide to make Bali your home?

It was when I started Sarong eight years ago. At the time, I already had my beautiful family and Sarong completed my life.

After the success of Sarong, you opened Mama San in Bali. Can you tell us about the differences in concepts for each venue, and what influenced them?

Each of the restaurants I manage has a different concept. While Sarong is more of a fine dining restaurant highlighting Indian and Thai dishes, Mama San is a little bit more casual, highlighting Vietnamese and Chinese dishes. Hujan Locale in Ubud specializes in Indonesian dishes, and the new Tiger Palm serves Malaysian dishes: Kopitiam-style breakfast, all-day lunch, and dinner.

In your travels to Burma you wrote, “The purity of the Burmese spirit is what comes through the strongest”. Did it remind you of your early days in Bali?

When I started my life in Bali in 2006, it was a lot simpler; a lot more tranquil. Cultural activities were visible everywhere without having to look for it. But comparing it to Burma, I think Bali had been more modernized at the time already; more vibrant with a lot of western influences.

Tell us about the amazing floating gardens on Inle Lake in Burma.

I admire how the farmers there grow their vegetables. They use water hyacinth, which are secured in position using bamboo poles. Topped with mud from the bottom of the lake, the mixture becomes a fertile floating flatbed to grow tomatoes, gourds, cucumbers and other vegetables. I really hope this system survives the ‘attack’ of pesticide use, which I hear has already begun.

How does a chef’s connection to the land and the sea influence the way he approaches his work?

When a chef knows where the ingredients he uses comes from – how the farmers grow them, how the fishermen catch the fish and understand the people and their cultures – then he knows what he cooks, and how he’s supposed to cook the dishes. Food is not only about cooking and serving it on a table; it’s about heritage and culture.

Do you see the sourcing of high quality produce from local growers turning into a requisite for fine dining as well as a booming trade at all levels? How are Bali and Lombok contributing to this trend?

It is turning into a trend indeed. I really see it as a positive move and it will do nothing but help local communities in creating sustainable farming, even though I don’t see that most business practitioners actually try to do more than just use the trend as a marketing gimmick. Bali and Lombok have a lot of resources that are not yet industrialized – these places can be a good start to support the move.

In all your travels what food experiences stand out in your memory?

One of the most memorable food experiences was when I visited Manado and I ate bats and rats. It was OK, but those dishes were definitely not my favourites.

Has your stellar career made it more difficult to slow down to the simplicity you respect so much, where life is only about dealing with the necessities?

I consider myself a realistic person. By default, I do things the simplest way possible, but then ‘necessities’ change according to your roles and responsibilities. In my case, the business needs me to move fast and I follow the stream.

As a father, and with your accumulated knowledge of agriculture and aquaculture, what are your hopes for the future of foods when your children are adults?

I’d like to see food as a culture, which develops sustainability within communities through well-managed boutique farming that can empower the people and strengthen their quality of life – like what I am trying to support through my restaurants.

What cookbooks have you published?

I’ve published Sarong Inspirations, which is now going for its third print edition. Next year, the plan is to write some regionally-focused cookbooks.

What is your latest venture?

We are opening Tiger Palm at The Village in Seminyak this month. The next step is to develop cooking class programmes involving learning the Balinese cuisine culture from locals in their villages.

Thank you, Will Meyrick!

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Jakarta’s famed molecular gastronomy restaurant is a whole lot of style over substance.

Imagine if your teenaged son was gifted a large chemistry set one day, and decided after a few experiments that he wanted to open a restaurant. This is the thought that came to mind after sampling the 17-course degustation menu at Namaaz Dining. From beginning to end, I remained incredulous, and later aggrieved by the quality and value for one of Jakarta’s more expensive dining experiences. That this is Jakarta’s first molecular gastronomy restaurant is respectable, but the dining experience lacks demonstrable professionalism, substance and cohesion over the theatrics.

The mantra at Namaaz is ‘What you see is not what you get’. It was repeated several times over the evening – especially when a server either couldn’t or wouldn’t delve further into details over a dish when asked. Beyond the understanding of certain cultural and language cues, I found it rather bizarre the restaurant didn’t provide accompanying text for diners prior to the start of the meal, especially as some of the dishes had rather murky cultural references and a few of the dessert courses were obscured by audio-visual elements. I didn’t find it pleasant to ask multiple times over the speaker system blaring Justin Bieber just exactly what I was eating.

Service at Namaaz was discombobulating. The service staff seemed to be some of the same people preparing dishes in the open kitchen, and although a few extra bodies stood around to stare blankly through the dining room whilst trying to fill your water glasses for which they even struggled to maintain, they were hardly professional dining room wait staff. New cutlery was laid out before empty plates were taken away, and bits and crumbs were left glaringly out on display on the black tablecloth between each course.

Timing between courses went well overall, but when there are only three controlled seatings for a 28-head dining room each night, it should not be an issue. In a professional restaurant, the dining room could have been easily divided between two professional servers with four running staff and a couple of busboys. When a cockroach surprised us by climbing atop the table to join the meal at the beginning of the evening, one of the kitchen-service staff quickly removed it with a towel; the only problem was that after the incident, I kept wondering if she changed her gloves or towel when she served us a course.

Namaaz has one of the strangest drinks menus in town, which is to say, there isn’t one. There is not one juice or cocktail or wine or beer in sight. Seventeen courses and not a single pairing to enjoy. A corkage fee, usually reserved for restaurants as a way of discouraging diners from bringing their own wine when there is a bar or cellar full of well-paired drinks available, is collected at Namaaz. It is such a disservice to the diner when absolutely nothing is offered during a degustation menu. Some of the dishes could have benefited from beverages to counteract the intense salinity. Strong flavours do not require water to counteract; they require balance.

As for the food, out of 17 exhausting courses, there were only a few mildly pleasant dishes. That left the rest of the evening to suffer through a barrage of overambitious bites of food that was long on theatrics and very little on what really matters: whether the food tasted good. In this case, not much did.

For what some online reviews claim to be the number one restaurant in Jakarta, Namaaz is hardly a place to go for the food.

Perhaps under the pretence of theatre dining, the experience could be more forgiving. Other modernist restaurants I have had the pleasure of experiencing (one most notably, Alinea) have all the pomp and circumstance, but they are aligned with the food, and although innovative, at the core delicious. These restaurants take the diner on a celebratory experience with the basic assumption that although not all will understand it or the chef, most will appreciate eating there.

Chef Andrian Ishak does have the ambition and aptitude to work the basic techniques, but lacks the focus and detail to bring his creations to fruition. Behind all the smoke and mirrors, there are some huge, glaring cracks. Proudly self-taught, I wonder whether Chef Ishak would benefit from a stint staging at a modern dining establishment, which would hopefully elevate and open his horizons somewhat and where he can learn how these types of restaurants should operate.

A plate of what appeared to be a few slices of sukiyaki-style slices of raw beef paired with raw eggs served in their own shell, in actuality was dehydrated watermelon slices reconstituted in its own juices, served with a mango-passionfruit gelée. As one of the more playful dishes, its presentation was slightly askew as the watermelon juice seeped into an unappetizing wet puddle onto the wooden platter. A sad little lettuce leaf garnish did little to spruce up the platter.

“A plate of what appeared to be a few slices of sukiyaki-style slices of raw beef paired with raw eggs served in their own shell”

The churro version of cakwe appeared good enough, but as soon as I bit into it, the tapioca starch created an experience akin to chewing a mouthful of old bubble gum that had been stuck under a desk a little too long. The sop buntut ‘afternoon tea’ was nearly inedible, with a stale ‘éclair’ filled with braised oxtail so bland that one had to dip it into the oversalted tea consisting of a broth with reconstituted vegetable and spice ‘tea bag’ that tasted eerily similar to instant Indomie purchased for Rp.2,000 at the local convenience store.

Namaaz Dining’s Churro

Two courses that did live up to its promise were the fish cake vermicelli, and smoked cassava and dried seafood sambal. The fish cake had a lightness and delicateness that tasted reminiscent of the ubiquitous sop bihun bakso ikan. The snail race presentation was interesting, but I failed to understand how it tied into the food. It was also difficult to eat as the edible spoon kept breaking apart when I tried to lift it to take a bite. Another course, the fried fish skin and smoked cassava with dried fish or shrimp sambal was delicious and the most inspired of the evening. The soft and starchy cassava paired with the crispy fish skin highlighted by the pungent sambal displayed wonderfully dark and black as saté charcoal.

Cassava with Fish Skin

I was left with the impression that although high on creativity, Namaaz Dining is still at best an amateur’s approach to molecular gastronomy with years of development and professional restaurant mastery to attain. For the price and length of time dedicated to its 17 courses, there are much better restaurants in Jakarta to consider.

The Critic’s Verdict?

1 out of 5 stars

Namaaz Dining

Jalan Gunawarman no. 42, Jakarta 12110

Website: www.namaazdining.com

Online reservations only

Price per diner: Rp.1,250,000/prepay in full when you book your reservation

No beverages except water available, BYO with corkage fee

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Alcoholics Bar & Grill
Jalan Kemang Raya no. 72N
Jakarta Selatan
021 7195675
info@alcoholicsbar.com

If you’re trying to wean yourself off the booze, maybe it’s better you stay away from this extremely pro-alcohol spot in Kemang which just opened on the 28th of April, aptly named Alcoholics Bar & Grill. Run by duo, Chef Patrick and his wife Judith, they wanted to create something truly unique whereby every single thing served on the menu is cooked with alcohol. Their bi-line? “The only place where you can eat alcohol.”

This venue may be small, but it’s cozy, made up of two floors; downstairs the bar with a few tables for sitting and upstairs a dining area with a few booths, dining tables and bar-style seating. The interior is black and white with exposed white brick walls, black ceilings, black leather booths and large posters with alcohol slogans such as “Wine, Dine and Sixty-Nine” decorate the walls. The staff are friendly and speak English well.

“I love cooking and drinking,” says Chef Patrick, “That’s where the idea for Alcoholics Bar and Grill came from.” Chef Patrick worked in F & B in Sydney for many years and he created the menu himself by trial and error at home. Judith supported him the whole way and looks after marketing, customers and much more.

So what’s on the menu? Their signature Drunken Steak offers you the choice of Sirloin, Rib Eye, T-Bone, Tenderloin, Fillet Mignon and Lamb Chop and you can choose your poison, so to speak, of the infusion sauce: Bintang, Guinness, Red Wine, Brandy or Jack Daniels. Their signature chicken dish, Beer Can Chicken, is a whole rottiserrie chicken literally steamed on a beer can and served with chips, mushy peas and salad. This dish takes an hour to cook at exactly 175 degrees Celcius and a chef comes out to cut the chicken up for you. The menu is not vegetarian-friendly, but you can make requests and something like a Ratatouille can be whipped up for you.

Other creative dishes on the menu include the Guinness Mini Burger which was a real juicy hit, Salmon Tartar with red wine dressing, Brandy Garlic Prawns and Nachos with a zesty tequila salsa. Even the desserts are all made with alcohol. Our favourites were homemade Baileys Ice Cream and the Kahlua Chocolate Mousse.

Ok, so you can’t actually get drunk off of food that’s been cooked with alcohol, but you certainly can off their cocktails and shooters which are seriously strong. I’m talking two sips and you feel it go to your head. We were given a Bob Marley shooter which was tricolored and a concoction of Rum, Peppermint Bols, Banana liquor and Strawberry syrup. Then Patrick’s bartender created a new shooter made up of Bols Peppermint, Baileys and Grand Marnier which was named after us – the Flaming Expat!

During the weekends, space is cleared on the second floor by the DJ booth to have a boogie to house music. This is a perfect pre-clubbing joint. The promotional prices will carry on until May 13th and you can get an additional 10% off your bill during this period. Chef Patrick and Judith are keen on introducing their concept to expats, so do come if you’re curious but just be careful not to trip on the stairs if you’ve had a few too many. Their take-away bags have “I’M NOT DRUNK” printed on them so be sure to show this to your significant other if you get in trouble for staggering through the door late.

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Gluttony is my favourite sin. Indulging in a calorific piece of kobe beef, an extra helping of bacon on your pancakes dripping with maple syrup or the bliss of losing yourself in a moist cake that could make a nun blush are pleasures I will afford to take should judgement day come. By no means am I promoting unhealthy living (too much of anything is bad) but excess in moderation can also be referred to as a treat. With that said, let us continue with places we can be a little naughty – once in a while.

Sweet

Desserts come at the end of a meal and marketed as the optional portion, which is why desserts are synonymous with gluttony. And if you are going to be bad, go all the way with the Red Velvet at Union Brassiere, Bakery & Bar in Plaza Senayan. The Red Velvet at Union is what you want when you are craving cake. Four layers of moist, spongy red cake sandwiched in between cream cheese frosting topped with caramelised nuts. Union has a two slices policy per person for Red Velvet, and if you’ve had a slice you know why. It’s moreish and begs you to finish every last bite even when your stomach says no. If you want more than two slices, you will have to call four days in advance for the magic elves in the kitchen to cook you up an entire cake just for you (you will not want to share it, believe me).

Address: JL. Asia Afrika No. 8 – Central Jakarta Plaza Senayan, 1st Floor Unit Sogo
Phone: (021)5790 5861

The Harvest specialises in European style cakes and pastries. My first introduction to The Harvest was a Christmas basket given to us at work. I chose Ginger Snaps and Chocolate Chip cookies. The Ginger Snaps were lovely, sweet but with that pinch of salt that really highlights all the tastes so sweet doesn’t turn saccharin. The Chocolate Chips went down with ease, I prefer the chewier variety although this is a nice crunchy version. Peruse through their cakes, cookies, ice creams and pastries on their website where you can add sloth to your sins with home delivery. They have a variety of cheese cakes to offer you; blueberry, strawberry, mixed fruit and chocolate. I’ve been told that The Harvest offers “the best cheese cake in Jakarta” because of the authentic creamy, rich cheese filling that it is a must for a true-blue cheese cake. The Chocolate Cheese Cake is on the heavier side but the fruity varieties offer a tamer treat.

http://www.harvestcakes.com

Savoury

Oasis Restaurant was originally the private residence of a Dutch millionaire and owner of tea, rubber and cinchona estates in 1928, situated in one of the few maintained Dutch colonial buildings that brings the rich past of Old Batavia to modern Jakarta. This elegant and beautiful restaurant also boasts a Rijstaffel menu which is a rarity in Indonesia due to the extravagance in price and quantity; pure gluttony! Rijstaffel means rice table in Dutch. It is Padang food served in an elegant and lavish way and the height of luxury in Colonial Indonesian Cuisine. Impeccably dressed ladies in traditional outfits bring out the expanse of dishes and set the scene that is fit for royalty. Oasis has six types of Rijstaffel menus that change weekly, VIP Menu A and B is priced at Rp. 496.000.-++ per person. Oasis is pricey and grand, but this is not an everyday restaurant; it is a place for celebrations and more than just a meal. It is an event and a showcase of the best Indonesian dishes cooked in the traditional ways without skimping on any ingredients or effort.

http://www.oasisjakarta.com
For the western side of savoury French cuisine is a given. French cuisine is if anything fancy, elegant and opulent. Lyon in the Mandarin Oriental is said to have “the best French food in Jakarta” which I borrow from the words of a hard to please Frenchman. Fine French food is never cheap so taste has to make sense of the price and it certainly does in Lyon. Chef Thierry Le Queau, Executive Chef, has sinfully delicious signature dishes such as Pan-fried Duck Foie Gras, Grilled Lime Caught Yellow Fin Tuna Fillet and Pan Seared sea bass with langoustine. The Grilled Lime Caught Yellow Fin Tuna Fillet is prepared Confit Nocois style, infusing the flavour throughout the tuna, and comes with vegetables and lime zest. The Pan Seared sea bass with langoustine displays the naturally sweet flavours of the dainty lobster and the sea bass pan seared preserving its delicate flavour and flaky texture.

Address: Mandarin Oriental, Jalan M.H. Thamrin, Jakarta 10310, Indonesia | Phone: (021) 2993 8888

Non Halal

Nasi Campur Kenanga is not your ordinary nasi campur. For pork lovers, Nasi Campur Kenanga is an absolute treat but for those who don’t indulge in the other white meat, the options are quite limited. The nasi campur consists of char siu, roast pork, siomay, gohiong and satay accompanied with rice and a bowl of clear broth. The dishes are very reasonably priced and portions are very filling. The winner here is definitely the roast pork, thick juicy cuts with delicious crispy skin. If you’re in the area and are looking to satisfy your craving for a delicious plate full of pork and more pork, then head over to Nasi Campur Kenanga and eat to your heart’s content. You won’t be disappointed!

Address: Grand Wijaya (Jalan Wijaya 2 Blok F/19), Jakarta Selatan, DKI Jakarta | Telephone: (021)7202 967

Kaca mata is another pork haven within walking distance from Nasi Campur Kenanga. It offers similar dishes but with more of a Chinese influence. The nasi campur can be ordered with either hainam (fragrant rice infused with ginger, garlic and chicken stock) or white rice and comes with roast pork, chasio (char siu), chicken and boiled egg. The prices are reasonable and portions are quite generous as well. The star of the dish is definitely the chasio garing madu – the combination of crispy and sweet will leave you wanting more.

Address: Grand Wijaya (Jalan Dharmawangsa III Blok C No. 4), Jakarta Selatan, DKI Jakarta | Phone: (021) 723 5228

After Dinner Drinks

After your sweet and savoury, let us explore another side of gluttony with digestifs at Nip & Dram where an impressive collection of whiskeys are available. Single malts are their specialty. Macallan, Laphroaig, Oban and Glenmorangie are to name a few of the popular fine whiskeys on offer. My personal favourite, and known to be best whiskey available in certain circles, is Yamazki 25 year old Japanese whiskey. The smoothness and full flavour is simply superb. Over two ice cubes, just slightly melted, really brings out the sweetness and fragrance this supermodel of a whiskey holds. Yamazaki 12 years is a more affordable but still a fantastic choice which costs Rp. 2,800,000 per bottle. They offer whiskey cocktails as well, if on the rocks and straight are not to your taste.

Address: The Landmark Centre II, Jl. Jend. Sudirman No. 1, Ground Floor, Jakarta | Telephone: (021) 5790 3991

Coming Soon…

Altitude at The Plaza by Luke Mangan is soon to be opening its doors. Altitude will be serving Australian contemporary cuisine. A cool 46 floors high and a promise of excellence from Luke’s reputation of restaurants that can be found in Australia, Japan, Singapore and even on the Pacific Jewel, Pacific Dawn and Pacific Pearl ships of P&O Cruises makes Altitude a very welcome addition into the food scene in Jakarta. It cannot be confirmed yet, but I do believe empirical evidence will prove Altitude to be a popular place to eat as if it’s your last supper.

http://www.lukemangan.com/restaurants/salt-grill-jakarta

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In celebrating this 30th edition, I have put together a list of my 30 favourite foods found in Bali, from gold foie gras to sate kambing. Some of them are legendary foods, while others are only popular among locals. Bon appétit!

1. Ibu Oka’s Suckling Pig—Jalan Suweta, Ubud
Ibu Oka’s suckling pig is the best babi guling of all. Unlike others that are quite tangy, this suckling pig is so rich, yet so fresh.

2. Foie Gras Gold—Ju Ma Na at Banyan Tree
This shimmering carat created by the kitchen team of Ju-Ma-Na restaurant at Banyan Tree is actually a bar of foie gras covered with edible gold dust.

3. Teatro’s Snapper in Curry Sauce – Jalan Kayu Aya, Seminyak
Serving a beautiful blend of coconut sauce and smoky fern, balanced with corn fritters, this quirky curry is a perfect example of East meets France.

4. Mejekawi’s Suckling Pig—Jalan Kayu Aya, Seminyak
Cooked using the French technique, sous-vide, this elegant babi guling is served in rendang jus and traditional urap with smoked potato puree; crisp at first, then tender.

5. Glow’s Raw Lasagna—Como Shambhala Estate, Ubud
Made with layers of raw tomato and zucchini with pesto sauce, this lasagna is not only beautiful, but is also very healthy. So far, this is the most delicious raw food I have ever had.

6. Soto Udang Pesmol—Sangkar Restaurant at Bulgari Resort Bali
This Javanese soup is a mixture of sweet and sour, with aromatic lemongrass, and has a rich character of coconut and the elegancy of the Bulgari brand. Very authentic.

7. Pork Ribs—Naughty Nuri’s, Ubud
Despite its humble look, this Ubud legend is so tasty and succulent. No wonder it’s always full of people, day and night!

8. Iga Penyet – Warung Omahan, Jalan Uluwatu II, Jimbaran
Not only is it delicious, this iga penyet is also cheap! At only Rp.25,000, this Jimbaran’s favourite iga penyet comes with rice, iceberg lettuce and cucumber, and not-too-hot sambal.

9. Sirloin steak—Eatwell, Jalan Raya Seminyak
Served with blue cheese, spinach crème sauce and gratin potatoes, this 200gr sirloin steak really made my tongue dance! The best thing is the price, at only Rp.75,000.

10. Bebek Betutu—Murni’s Warung, Ubud
This authentic Balinese cuisine is beautifully served with yellow cone rice, Balinese urap, and pretty garnishes. I can taste the complexity of the Balinese seasoning bumbu genep in this, one of Murni’s most popular dishes.

11. Salad Combination—Alchemy, Jalan Penestanan, Ubud
This salad is far from boring. They let you pick a combination of vegetables, toppings and different delicious dressings for only Rp.35,000!

12. Bakudapa Sop Buntut, Jalan Champlung Tanduk, Seminyak
Best to eat after clubbing, the beef is tender and the soup refreshing enough to cure a hangover.

13. Burrito—Sari Organik, Ubud
This burrito is made of organic ingredients, so fresh and delicious. And what makes it different to other burritos in Bali is the tranquil atmosphere of the surrounding rice fields.

14. Bibimbab—Hungry Go Go, Jalan Danau Poso, Sanur
Hungry Gogo serves an authentic version of this Korean nasi campur, mixing six vegetables, chicken and egg with a unique Korean sambal. Difficult to describe—you must try it yourself!

15. Babi Asap—Kamandhani, Renon, Denpasar
Smoked on coffee wood then grilled with BBQ sauce, this succulent babi asap is served with rice or potato wedges, and a small portion of salad.

16. Rendang Bakpao—Merah Putih Restaurant, Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak
Serving rendang in a soft bakpao bun is a very creative idea. I was so surprised with the authenticity of the rendang in this restaurant after learning that the chef is Australian.

17. Curry Mie—Warung Chili—Taman Griya
I am in love with this curry noodle and stop at this warung regularly for lunch. This noodle is served in a Japanese-style, thick curry sauce with carrot and minced chicken, and sprinkled with spring onion.

18. Gurami Pesmol—Pondok Tempoe Doeloe/IBC
I recently discovered this dish on my search of the best Indonesian foods in Bali. A perfect sweet and sour sauce of lemongrass, turmeric and tomato meet the crispy and tender gurami fish.

19. Nasi Ayam—Ibu Oki, Jalan Uluwatu II, Jimbaran
This super hot Balinese chicken rice comes with centrepiece rice, steam vegetables in coconut shreds (lawar), peanuts, ayam betutu and chicken cooked in many styles. Even the nonpedas version is still hot—don’t try if you can’t handle chilli!

20. Swedish Meatball—Alleycats, Poppies Lane II, Legian, Kuta
Known as a favourite spot for newlygrads, Alley Cat’s popular Swedish mix of onion and minced beef balls comes in a very humble facade, served only with gravy and mashed potato, but in a generous portion, and very tasty.

21. Roasted Duck—Laota, Jalan Raya Kuta, Kuta
Sliced to a mouthful, this super yummy and super soft duck meat is best to eat with their special rainbow porridge.

22. Hungary Goulash—BOW, Jalan Batu Belig, Kerobokan
At first I think it will taste like English beef stew, but it wasn’t. The flavour is similar like rendang, deep and full of spices, but it’s also crisp and fresh. Good for both lunch and dinner.

23. Okonomiyaki—Warung Omahan, Jalan Uluwatu II, Jimbaran
This is a Japanese-style pancake, filled with cabbage and minced beef, topped with fish meat and seaweed flakes, mayonnaise, and a special sauce. This is made in a perfect size for me.

24. Balinese Baby Pork—Sakala, Jalan Pratama, Tanjung Benoa
This chef’s special is braised for 48 hours vacuum-style and then grilled and served with crispy skin, lentil, and bourguignon sauce.

25. Nasi Ayam Betutu—Warung Liku, Jalan Nakula, Kuta
Warung Liku allows diners to enjoy the outdoor breeze, and serves authentic nasi ayam betutu that is far less spicy compared to others, with a perfect combination of Balinese herbs and spices.

26. Thai Red Curry Seafood—Kat’s Kitchen, Jalan Uluwatu II, Jimbaran
Kat’s Kitchen offers fusion Thai foods, but this Red Curry tastes so authentic, refreshing and very creamy, with generous amounts of seafood. Their fish cake is the best I’ve ever tasted!

27. Sate and Gulai Kambing—bypass (near Taman Griya, Jimbaran)
Although it’s a bit watery, this gulai kambing offers complex flavours of spices, and tastes much better when accompanied with their satay.

28. Sop Buntut—Dulang Café, Kuta Square
This heritage cuisine is cooked for a day, resulting in a thick and savoury soup. Pour the soup over the big oxtail and rice, and you’ve got a delicious homemade traditional food loved by most Indonesians.

29. Arugula Salad—Sundara at Four Seasons Resort at Jimbaran Bay
This salad reveals a beautiful mix of the peppery flavour of arugula mixed with pear, and a sweet and sour taste from preserved lemon, pecorino and crunchy almond.

30. Eggs Benedict—Anomali Coffee
Their salmon eggs Benedict is quite large, creamy and delicious. Match it with a cup of Mandailing coffee for a perfect brunch.

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Although Indonesia is a great place to find vegetarian food with plenty of soya bean options and vegetable side dishes available in a nearby warung, its cities have been lagging behind with their varieties of organic, ethically-sourced food. In Jakarta, most consumers favour cheap, tasty meals without considering the wider impacts of their food on their health and the environment (unsustainable mono-cultural farming methods have had huge impacts across Borneo and Sumatra, resulting in large-scale deforestation). Many restaurants use palm oil, genetically-modified vegetables and that devilish flavour enhancer, MSG. But a growing number of individuals are becoming concerned about their food and are establishing joints which support local, organic farmers, providing homely, vegetarian meals for consumers across Indonesia. Here is a selection of five veggie restaurants from Bali, Jakarta and Jogjakarta.

Burgreens

Jl. Flamboyan No.19, Rempoa, Jakarta

Website: http://burgreens.com

Telephone: +62 8788 200 5070

Opened last year by a young group of environmentally-concerned entrepreneurs, this vegetarian burger joint has blossomed – scoring first place on TripAdvisor for best Jakarta restaurant. The social vibe of the place is further encouraged by the Burgreens team who are actively involved in promoting healthier, sustainable lifestyles by visiting organic fairs and events including the Organic Green and Healthy Expo in Jakarta. They also have plans to start meditation classes with Reza Gunawan, husband of writer Dewi Lestari and are producing a small variety of vegetables in their backyard.

Founded by Max Mandias and Helga Angelina, I recently visited their restaurant and was invited to try a selection of three mini burgers with bean, mushroom and spinach-chickpea fillings. The prices are worth it – this restaurant is changing the way consumers in Jakarta think about their food. Sustainably-focused and locally-sourced, Burgreens offer oat milk, zucchini noodles, raw cacao balls and sweet potato chips and their helpful menu outlines the raw, vegan and gluten-free options.

9 Warung

Jl. Lodtunduh, Ubud, Bali (in front of Tanah Tho Gallery)

Telephone: 0817776768 (Thony)

Email: warungsembilan@yahoo.com

Facebook: 9 warung

This is one of my favourite places to visit in Bali for vegetarian food – cheap, wholesome, with a large variety. The restaurant was founded by Thony and offers a selection of white rice and three vegetables for only Rp.9,000 – perfect for anyone in Ubud who is looking for a bargain lunch. Thony, a Buddhist from Jakarta and all-round happy person, treats his guests like family, and we began to visit his peaceful restaurant every day – the walls are covered in photos of Thony with his newly-found friends. White, red and yellow rice are served along with a choice of: tempe orek, corn perkedel, bean sprouts, spicy boiled potatoes and many vegetables. My favourite dish included a tofu cake made with cabbage, egg, chilli and onions – the recipe was made by Thony and Komang, who created this restaurant with their bare hands in 2013.

Alongside the food, Thony also hosts workshops, including t-shirt painting and cooking classes and a selection of his ceramic creations are on sale in the restaurant. Aside from taking care of Bali’s street dogs, he also organizes stress management courses in Jakarta.

Annapurna

Jl. Tandakan No.7, Sanur, Bali

Telephone: 0361 286770

Email: crewbaloo20@gmail.com

Brand-spanking new, Annapurna is doing something bold – the food in their restaurant is paid by donation and the place has a great community feel. After eating, guests are invited to relax and enjoy the music of the restaurant’s founders – Ben and Krishna – who regularly jam with their band, the Mangrooves. The menu includes delicious veggie burgers, including lentil curry, oyster mushroom or tempe fillings and a selection of jamu and tea drinks are served. The food is simple and homely and breakfast includes scrambled tofu on toast with French-pressed coffee.

From the Sanskrit name meaning ‘full of food’ Annapurna was the goddess of nourishment – fitting with this theme, the walls are decorated with paintings of Hindu gods and goddesses, as well as murals painted by artistic friends. On the first of November, Annapurna will be hosting the event Art Party Bali, inviting musicians, poets and artists to share their work in an inviting, creative space and all proceeds will go to the Cahaya Mutiara Foundation.

Warung Bumi

Bumi Langit, Jl. Imogiri-Mangunan km 3, Desa Giriloyo, Wukirsari, Imogiri, Bantul

Email: mail@bumilangit.org

Telephone: +62 274 85 72 121

Website: http://www.bumilangit.webs.com/

Situated up in the rocky forests of the valleys outside of Jogjakarta, Bumi Langit is a permaculture farm which was founded by Pak Iskandar and his family. Permaculture was a science developed in Australia in the 1970s by Bill Morrison, using functional design systems which mimic nature, reducing the impacts on the environment. Bumi Langit produces its own gas from methane generation, composts its waste and uses solar panels and recently they opened a café which overlooks the valley and the city of Jogjakarta. Sitting in the warm energy of the farm, guests can choose from a small selection of organic dishes – the farm only sells locally-produced food, encouraging its visitors to think closely about where their food comes from.

The menu includes kambucha (fermented tea made with microbial culture), nasi goreng, fresh farm-made breads (made with local flour), jams and honeys, and my favourite – markisa syrup – perfect with a glass of ice for a hot day. Ibu Dar once showed me how she prepared the probiotic keffir susu sapi in her kitchen which filled the air with a warm, buttery aroma. Goat and cow milk is also used to produce milk, butter and cheese. Keeping extra healthy, only unpolished, organic rice is served. Warung Bumi also does catering for parties and has four vegetarian packets, all prepared by Ibu Dar.

Milas

Jl. Prawirotaman IV No.127B, Jogjakarta

Telephone: 0274-7423399

As a community centre with good connections with local organic farmers, Milas also organizes educational programs, has a library and hosts an organic market every Wednesday and Saturday from 10am-1pm with fresh produce from organic farms. This delightful restaurant is very popular, scoring first place on TripAdvisor for listed restaurants in Jogjakarta. Its menu includes my favourite dish (and secret obsession) – tempe burger complete with french fries or stir-fried vegetables and home-made tomato ketchup. Guests sit down on lesehan-style mats surrounded by zodia plants to keep away the mosquitos. Milas also serves deliciously healthy Javanese jamu drinks, including the tasty es smoothie Jawa made from bananas, tamarind, coconut milk and palm sugar.

Main courses include the flavoursome biryani made with onion chutney, cloves, raisins and pineapple, a selection of nasi goreng dishes and other familiar Indonesian meals, as well as western food like pasta, pancakes, tempe steak with onion gravy and salads. Their small shop sells a collection of jewellery, recycled paper books, honey and organic nuts, grains and other food items.

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Colonial Cuisine & Molecular in South Jakarta is the epitome of contrast: old classics jazzed up by new techniques; antiquated interiors offset with cutting-edge mixology, and a chef at the helm who isn’t afraid to mix it up. 

It was a fiercely stormy night when we visited Colonial Cuisine & Molecular in Lippo Mall, Kemang. The wind threw lashings of rain in sheets against the tall buildings, which bore multiple lightning strikes throughout the course of dinner. The electric atmosphere enhanced the darkly sophisticated surroundings of the restaurant, and deterred none of the guests on the covered terrace outside.

In stark contrast, the big, ready smile of Chef Zulkamain Dahlan warmly welcomed us to our seats. Chef Zul, as he is known, cut his teeth partly in Jakarta but most notably at Joël Robuchon Restaurant in Singapore. It is clear his love of French cooking, as well as innovation in cuisine, comes from this experience. He is now dedicated to bringing this passion to Indonesia.

Looking around, the décor suggests nostalgia via modern sensibilities: tongue-in-cheek bowler hats on the staff; framed faux-antiques and doily-like tablecloths give it enough chichi to pass muster for even the fussiest of Jakartan hipsters. The showstopper is the chemistry lab on the bar: bells, whistles and test tubes are tinkered with by achingly cool mixologists, who can turn a margarita into a sphere of delicious drunken jelly at the drop of a hat (OK, in 20 minutes – but this is molecular mixology, after all!).

This supremely 21^st-century effort juxtaposed against the interior’s ‘colonial’ charm is the harbinger of the restaurant’s overarching themes: divergence and experimentation – something we discovered was thoroughly recognisable in the food.

We needed little persuasion from Chef Zul to try his Escargot à la Bourguignonne (Rp.120,000), whilst deliberating over the carefully-constructed menu. Two dozen snails is a generous portion for sharing, but the presentation was spot on in a piping-hot, authentic terracotta snail dish – imported along with the escargots. They were beautifully soft, and less garlicky than others I’ve had in the city; which was not necessarily a bad thing. But this dish, unique amongst the starters we tried, was a straightforward French classic – no sign of experimentation here: just successful execution.

Homemade Smoked Salmon Salad

Chef Zul changes his menu frequently, but each time assiduously preserves a certain element of surprise in his creations. A great example was one of our starters, a new menu item: Prawn & Crab Daikon Ravioli (Rp.110,000). This was an open-faced ‘ravioli’ in which the pasta was replaced by perfect discs of sweet, miso- and soy-marinated daikon. The use of a humble Asian veg contrasted against a fine, creamy remoulade of crab and shrimp meat is exactly the type of nuance Chef Zul is building his reputation on. The dish worked very well.

Alongside this we also enjoyed the Homemade Norwegian Smoked Salmon (Rp.110,000). This was simple, yet slightly elevated above your usual smoked salmon starter. It is smoked in-house, and came with sliced urap and a honey-mustard dressing on tangy watercress – interesting.

So far, the Plats Spéciaux section of the menu delivered on taste, so we continued the successful streak with Chef’s Zul recommendation of his Confit de Cuisse Canard (homemade French duck leg confit, Rp.195,000). He was – rightly so – proud of this dish. A lovingly, painstakingly prepared confit is a beautiful thing and this one was up to scratch. Chef Zul’s flair for the unexpected came through again in the tamarind-apple coulis that adorned the dish.

Chef Zul loves to sous-vide things. For the uninitiated, this technique involves sealing whatever it is you’re preparing in an airtight bag, which is then gently cooked in a water bath at a low temperature for a long time, before final preparation – for example, chargrilling, if it’s a piece of meat. The end result should be a tenderer, evenly-cooked item. Our Pan-Seared Australian Tenderloin 180g Sous-Vide (Rp.315,000) was exactly that – soft and perfect on the inside, but without sacrificing any of the flavour on the outside. Highly recommended.

Valrhona Manjari Chocolate Fondant

Even the desserts got in on the water bath action. A crème brûlée (Rp.75,000) was served wittily in a little mason jar, having been subjected to the sous-vide system beforehand. I confess, I’m not quite sure exactly what the treatment did for this dessert, but it was a decent crème brûlée nonetheless and we had no complaints wolfing it down.

Desserts at Colonial seemingly afford the kitchen the chance to be even more creative, evident in the Valrhona Manjari Chocolate Fondant (Rp.90,000). This was almost like a science project: a little chocolate volcano surrounded by ‘choco soil’, strawberry ‘worms’, crackly sesame tuille and a warm turmeric crème anglaise. Admittedly there’s a lot going on here, both visually and on the palate, but the fondant was good, as was the soil, and top marks must be awarded for ingenuity.

It is pleasing to see a local talent like Chef Zul given the chance to really explore the bounds of his creativity and have his voice expressed to the local market. The themes of old versus new; familiar versus fresh, and even West versus East are all ably matched by Colonial’s competent cooking and service, and agreeable atmosphere.

All in all, a pleasing little package. I will be interested to watch how the restaurant continues to fare in future.

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Colonial Cuisine & Molecular

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Indonesia Makan Sayur is a community that tries to raise awareness of the health benefits of eating plant-based foods. Through Instagram, Facebook, and their recently launched blog, the initiative uses the power of social media to spread their message to the Indonesian public of living a healthy life through consuming the right foods. 

Sophie Navita, founder of Indonesia Makan Sayur

Being a vegan is somewhat becoming a trend. But when people spontaneously commit to a specific lifestyle, especially one that deals with a great degree of awareness like one’s eating habits, they are bound to face challenges. Youngsters, for instance, have the tendency to proudly advocate a vegan lifestyle, while in reality they lack the nutritional knowledge to be able to sustain such a diet.

One example that demonstrates people’s lack of awareness when it comes to diet is protein. According to the initiator of Indonesia Makan Sayur, Sophie Navita, only 20 percent of our daily nutritional intake needs to be made up of protein – a figure much lower than most would assume. Navita thinks that if a person truly understands nutrition, they would know that it is not exactly protein that is required by the body. “When you actually break it down, it is not the protein per se that you need, but amino acids, which are produced by the body when proteins are digested.”

Navita understands that different diets work for different people and the key is to listen to your body and learn which works best for you. “If someone follows a diet without actually listening to him or herself, then it usually won’t last long,” she says.

Founded in 2003, Indonesia Makan Sayur strives to educate the public in Indonesia about the importance of consuming a healthy diet. Previously, people were not as enthusiastic when hearing the word ‘vegan’ or ‘vegetarian’. Because of this, Sophie tried to translate the term ‘plant-based’ into something catchy yet intriguing, resulting in ‘Indonesia Makan Sayur’. Originally starting as just a hashtag on her personal social media, thousands of followers caught on.

With currently over 22,000 followers on Instagram, a Facebook page, and a recently launched blog, Sophie is recognizing the power of social media to bring people into the conversation of consuming a healthy, plant-based diet. She realizes that the advantage of having this online community, aside from being cost-effective, is the ability to reach a wider audience while allowing the community to be engaged.

On their Instagram account, Indonesia Makan Sayur promotes their activities by posting pictures of food that does not contain meat on ‘Meatless Monday’; delivering healthy recipes every Wednesday with the hashtag ‘Raburesep’ (Wednesday’s recipe); and promoting food movements across Indonesia every Tuesday and Thursday. Additionally, they hold writing and food competitions to further motivate followers.

“We are slowly trying to incorporate eating more plants into the Indonesian way of living and thinking,” Sophie says.

One of the most noticeable issues Sophie has found in the Indonesian diet is the habit of jajan (snacking; usually purchased outside the house). In all honesty, even I myself struggle with this, as everywhere I turn –roadsides, malls, on campus – I am faced with the urge to purchase an unhealthy snack. Although it does come with the benefit of serving as a tourist attraction, Sophie does not recommend this culture to continue to the point of damaging a person’s health. “How far are you willing to be stuffed by this jajanan culture to not let it affect your health?” she asks.

“When the Portuguese travelled here hundreds of years ago, they were after spices,” Sophie adds. “We are so used to incorporating spices into our cooking,” she suggests. As a consequence, Sophie says we are dealing with the burgeoning use of MSG in the food sold in restaurants and on the streets, as they try to match our tongue’s intrinsic demand for flavourful tastes.

Sophie is also concerned with the mentality of Indonesians when it comes to living a healthy lifestyle. She thinks that people will always find excuses to compensate for their unhealthy ways of eating. For one, she finds that people normally blame the fast pace of today’s world as a reason for why they no longer have time to cook for themselves.

If we understand the need to not just please our taste buds, but more importantly feed our bodies with nutrition, then we might have a chance for a healthy lifestyle. Sophie concludes, “Are you eating just for the momentary pleasure your tongue gets, or are you eating to feed your cells that actually help you to function?”

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East Bali Cashews (EBC) is stirring things up in today’s business world. From the birth of the enterprise just three years ago, the mission of EBC has been to create lasting change – and it is doing just that. We meet EBC’s American cliff-diving CEO and Founder Aaron Fishman and learn more about the exciting story behind his social enterprise.

Located in the Karangasem region of Bali, EBC has grown at an astounding rate, and is now exporting cashews to seven countries and counting. As the region’s largest employer, EBC provides over 350 jobs as well as various community development initiatives dedicated to improving the lives of the people of Ban Village. As EBC’s founder and CEO, Aaron is dedicated to ensuring that the company remains true to its mission of social, economic, and environmental sustainability.

How it all began

What made a young American uproot his entire life in his home country and move to Bali to start a business processing and selling cashews? The answer lies in two of Aaron’s greatest interests: helping people and food. Aaron has always been a ‘foodie’; whether cooking in a French restaurant in college, producing chocolate in France, owning a brownie company, or running a commercial kitchen.

The EBC staff working in Ban Village, East Bali

Surprisingly enough, although Aaron has always had an entrepreneurial spirit, the decision to come to Bali was, as he puts it, “…totally random. My friend told me about a non-profit that was sending a medical mission trip to Bali and I decided to go.” Aaron had never considered travelling to Bali before then and had no idea what to expect once he got there. Little did he know, it was a decision that would completely change not only his life, but the lives of hundreds of Balinese.

In East Bali, he felt worlds away from the crowded, noisy, touristy south. He was faced with the extreme poverty of those living off of this unforgiving land. He realized that though foreign aid provided through non-profit organizations was helpful, what this village really needed was a sustainable economic boost.

Aaron arrived in Bali at the height of the cashew season and learned from the local farmers that all the cashews would be shipped to Vietnam and India for processing. At that time, this practice, as well as other inefficiencies in the system, produced high environmental and financial costs while lowering cashew quality. Always thinking like an entrepreneur, Aaron had the idea to start a factory right there in Bali. He believed this was the way to provide the community with desperately needed jobs and create the sustainable development that this region lacked. He decided that he would create a self-sustaining business, one that would be profitable and beneficial to the community.

When starting the business there was no ‘grand plan’. He took things step by step and learned as he went, receiving the guidance and advice of many knowledgeable people. “My goal was to improve the community and to make a profit, and we have done both,” he says.

Aaron Fishman has improved the local community through his business

To undergo such a massive undertaking, he knew he had to figure out both the operational and the business side of things. Aaron described how he navigated through this unfamiliar territory. “On the operational side you can learn by doing. As for the business side, I had a local partner, Rezal, who gave me the know-how to begin a business here [in Indonesia]. Rezal and I started talking about it in February of 2012 and all the investment was raised by August of that year. We started production in November after raising just US$137,000.”

Lessons Learned

Aaron has had many surprises along the way. “I think the biggest surprise I had was how amazing my team has been and how many people have been supportive of us. We had to be able to run a complex operation in the middle of a very remote area. The team took it on full-steam and successfully executed it.”

When visiting the factory in Karangasem, one can immediately feel the positive energy and community spirit. However, Aaron notes how difficult it has been to bring the story of EBC to the consumer because of how far removed the two can be, especially now with EBC expanding into so many new and distant markets.

It is still difficult for Aaron to believe how much the company was able to do in the beginning with so little to start with. Luckily, his inexperience at that time was what allowed him to take a leap into the deep end, unphased by the very real possibility of failure that had befallen many others who attempted the same feat.

“If you would have told me that after just three rounds of capital we would make it, I would never have believed you. Starting the company in retrospect with US$100,000 is ridiculous. That was a terrible idea! It worked but I certainly wouldn’t do it again. I would start it much bigger, much better financed.”

The Future

Where does Aaron see himself in five years? “Probably sitting here, at this desk, with two factories, a plantation, an ecolodge, and much more advanced distribution so that we can reach all people who are willing to try us outside of Indonesia,” he says.

When asked about the possibility of new products Aaron answered, “I want a better product line that includes more cashew flavours, cereals, snack mixes, cashew popcorn, etc. If anything can be made with cashews, we will make it. I’m also working on a low-cost brand.”

It is very clear that with Aaron at the head of the company, EBC will continue to surprise and satisfy taste buds the world over. There is much in store for the company, as Aaron noted, “Things are going well but we have so much more to do. This is just the beginning.”

Through hard work, creativity, and a whole lot of cashews, Aaron has spearheaded a business improving the lives of everyone involved; a true model for the future.

For more information, please visit www.eastbalicashews.com

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