Food Good Indonesia

Coquelicot_interior-1

What little French cuisine we have in Jakarta is generally trop cher and requires you to dress to impress, which is where the concept for Coquelicot was born. Non-pretentious, very homely and even borderline kitsch describe this place tucked away in Cipete. The name itself refers to a red poppy that graces the French countryside and on some of the walls a capable artist has left his mark of these bright red beauties.

Now finding this place isn’t exactly easy, but Head Chef and Co-Owner, Radian Rahmananta (aka Chef Deddy) intended it that way. “I want it to remain an underground bistro. That’s why the sign outside is really small and although we’ve been around for nearly five years, that sign’s only been up for less than one!” At least it’s not because they’re avoiding their tax payments. “This place is like a house,” Chef Deddy tells me. “It’s a neighbourhood restaurant with a lot of regular customers who notice inconsistency.” Chef Deddy spent eight years in Paris and lives and breathes French cuisine, referring to it as a culture.

Photos courtesy of Coquelicot le Bistro

So what do these regulars come here for? Entrees include a very tastySalade au Roquefort avec

pommes et noix (Salad with Roquefort cheese, tomatoes and walnuts), although I would have liked to see this come with another form of lettuce than Iceburg, Quich Lorraine et Quich Norvegienne (self explanatory and with Smoked Salmon), and a must try Consomme de Champignon which is a rich mini-soup of mushroom and cream drizzle with a touch of nutmeg served in an espresso glass. A perfect pre Plat Principal treat.

Mains include Boeuf en Grillade (with the option of Australian rib eye or Australian sirloin), Travers de Boeuf a la Sauce Barbecue (Beef back rib), Volaille (Roast Chicken), Poisson (Fish with the option of Dory or Salmon) and Pates (Pastas from Lasagne and Aglio Olio to creamy sauces). Then Specials include three types of Foie Gras, Fondue Savoyarde (Cheese Fondue) and Fondue Bourguignonne (Beef Fondue), perfect for sharing with a few friends over a bottle of wine. In true French fashion, we sampled the Cheese Fondue which was a blend of Emmental and Gruyere, presented in a heavy red pot and very tasty.

Photos courtesy of Coquelicot le Bistro

For sweets, you can enjoy Profiterolles, Crepes and a delicious Lemon Creme Brulee with berries. I’m not usually a fan of such a sweet dessert, however this Creme Brulee really was delicious; not too sweet and very light. Apparently the staff here have all gained weight since joining, and with the laid back pace and rich food it’s not surprising. Finish up with a delicious coffee (Caswell’s own) and if you dine on a Saturday night you’ll be entertained by a pianist.

Also entertaining is the decor, a mix of old and new, my favourite being the old Fin de Siécle posters on the walls and also an antique radio. Even the toilet looks like a collectible. You have to visit this place to understand what I mean as photos alone do not do it justice. On the whole Coquelicot is a quaint, relaxing spot to indulge in tasty French cuisine without conceit. Bon appétit!

Coquelicot le Bistro

Jl. Puri Mutiara No. 3B

Cipete 12410

Jakarta

+62 21 7663216

www.coquelicotbistro.com

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If you’re yearning for a festive feast with all the trimmings but you lack the inclination to cook at home, then simply head to one of Jakarta’s big hotels offering Christmas Eve dinners and Christmas Day brunches.

Prices range from Rp.175,000 to Rp.988,000 per person, usually not including the “plus-plus”, which is generally 21% and mentioned only in small print on the promotional material. I’ll rephrase that: real prices range from Rp.211,750 to Rp.1,195,480 (about $22 to $125). The cost of hotel dining increases a few days later for New Year’s Eve dinner bashes.

Several of the Christmas brunches include a free flow of alcoholic drinks, usually beer, sparkling wine and house wine. Some of the restaurants are halal, offering beef in place of ham, although there are still plenty serving pork.

These sumptuous buffets are a great opportunity to engage in gluttony. The food often outshines the atmosphere, which tends to be somewhat artificial and formal, no matter how drunk one gets. An army of attentive waiters in Santa hats, a choir singing carols and a display of glitzy decorations all seem a bit unreal to me.

People seeking something more convivial, albeit with less choice on the menu, can instead go to one of the pubs and bars doing festive promotions, which are generally cheaper than the hotels. Some establishments offer home delivery of roasted turkeys.

Following is a list of what some of the major hotels and a few bars are offering. The prices are per adult, except where stated for children. If you want to dine at any of these places, then call first to make a reservation and see what’s on offer. Also listed are a few of the bars and restaurants that responded to requests for information regarding Christmas promotions. Offers are correct at time of going to print but may be subject to change.

Hotel Aryaduta Jakarta
Shima (Japanese): Dec. 22-25: Christmas Shabu-Shabu Rp.900,000++, Seasonal Sukiyaki Rp.900,000 ++, Wahyu Teppanyaki Rp.900,000 ++, Seafood Teppanyaki Rp.900,000 ++
JP Bistro: Christmas Eve buffet dinner. Rp.240,000 ++ per adult, Rp.130,000 ++ per child. 6pm – 10pm.
Christmas Day buffet lunch. Rp.200,000 ++ per adult. Rp.110,000 ++ per child. 12pm – 3pm.
Ambiente (Italian): Christmas Eve dinner, 4-course set menu. Rp.550,000 ++. 6pm – 10pm.
Phone: (021) 23521234

Hotel Borobudur
Bogor Cafe: Christmas Eve dinner. Rp.408,000 ++ per adult (inc. free flow gluhwein). Rp.208,000 ++ per child.
Christmas Day buffet lunch. Rp.342,000 ++ (inc. free flow gluhwein). Rp.208,000 ++  per child.
Miyama Japanese: Teppanyaki on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Starts from Rp.368,000 ++.
Phone:  (021) 380 4444, 383 5000 ext. 73400 or ext. 73100.

Dharmawangsa Hotel
Christmas Eve buffet dinner: Rp.495,000 ++ per adult. Rp375,000 ++ per child.
Christmas Day brunch: Rp.888,000 ++ (inc. free flow Laurent Perrier Champagne, wine, sangria and non-alcohol drinks). 11.30am to 3pm.
Phone: (021) 725 8181 ext. 6237.

Four Seasons Hotel
Seasons Café: Christmas Eve buffet. Rp.448,000 ++ per adult (inc. free flow juices and wine). Rp.348,000 ++ (inc. non-alcohol drinks) and Rp.205,000 ++ per child.
Christmas Day brunch. Rp.448,000 ++ (inc. free flow fresh juices and wine). Rp.348,000 ++ (inc. non alcoholic drinks) and Rp.205,000 ++ per child.
Christmas Day dinner buffet. Rp.238,000 ++ (inc. free flow fresh juices and ice tea).
Phone: (021) 2523456.

Gran Melia Hotel
Christmas dinner buffet. Rp.398,000 ++ (inc non-alcohol drinks), Rp.498,000 ++ (inc. free flow wine, sparkling wine and beer). 6pm – 10.30pm.
Christmas Day brunch buffet. Rp.398,000 ++ (inc non-alcohol drinks), Rp.498,000 ++ (inc. free flow wine, sparkling wine and beer). 11.30am – 3pm.
Phone: (021) 5268080.

Grand Hyatt
Grand Cafe: Christmas Eve dinner buffet. Rp.438,000 ++ per adult, Rp.219,000++ per child.
Christmas Day lunch and dinner buffet. Each at Rp.438,000++ per adult, Rp.219,000++ per child under 12.
C’s: Offering a special festive a la carte menu for lunch and dinner from Dec. 12-26.
Hotel is also selling turkey and beef hampers from Rp.2,288,000 to Rp.3,288,000.
Phone: (021) 2992 1234.

Grandkemang Hotel
Sperta: Christmas Eve dinner. Rp.245,000 ++ per person (incl. free flow non-alcohol drinks). 7pm – 10pm.
Christmas Day brunch. Rp.265,000 ++ (incl. free flow wine, sparkling wine, mimosa & bloody marys) 11am – 3pm.
Phone: (021) 719 4121.

Grand Sahid Jaya
Christmas Eve buffet. Rp.185,000 ++ per person. Children under 12 half-price.
Christmas Day buffet. Rp.175,000 ++. Children under 12 half-price.
Phone: (021) 570 4444 Ext. 1412.

Hotel Indonesia Kempinski
Signatures Restaurant: Christmas Eve buffet dinner. Rp.488,000 ++ per person. 6pm – 10.30pm.
Christmas brunch. Rp.488,000 ++. 11.30am – 3pm.
Casa D’oro: Christmas Eve set menu dinner. Rp.788,000++. 6pm – 10.30pm.
Christmas Day set menu dinner. Rp.888,000 ++. 6pm – 10.30pm.
Kempi Deli is selling Christmas roasts and hams.
Phone: (021) 2358 3800, 2358 3985.

JW Marriott Hotel
Christmas Eve dinner buffet. Rp.528,000 ++ per person (inc. non-alcohol drinks), Rp.618,000 (inc. free flow beer, sparkling wine and wine). 6pm-9.30pm.
Christmas Day lunch buffet. Rp.558,000 ++ (inc. non-alcohol drinks), Rp658,000 ++ (inc. free flow beer, sparkling wine and wine). 12pm-3.30pm.
Phone: (021) 57988888.

Mandarin Oriental
Cinnamon: Christmas Eve dinner. Rp.350,000 ++ per person (inc. non-alcohol beverages).
Christmas Day brunch. Rp.675,000 ++ (inc. beer, wine, sangria and eggnog).
Lyon: Christmas Eve dinner. Rp.688,000 ++ (inc. non-alcohol beverages). Eight-course set menu.
Christmas Day brunch. Rp.988,000 ++ (inc. beer and wine).
Xin Hwa: Christmas Eve dinner. Rp.488,000 ++.
Christmas Day all-you-can-eat dim sum: Rp188,000 ++.
Christmas Day Dinner: Rp.688,000 ++.
Phone: (021) 29938888.

Hotel Mulia Senayan
The Café: Christmas Eve buffet dinner. Rp.567,490 net per person.
Christmas Day international buffet lunch. Rp.470,690 net (inc. non-alcohol drinks).
Orient8 (French and Pan-Asian): Christmas Eve set menu dinner with a glass of wine. Rp.905,080 net.
Christmas Day buffet brunch. Rp.469,480 net (inc. non-alcohol drinks).
Edogin (Japanese): Christmas Eve buffet dinner. Rp.579,590 net.
Christmas Day buffet lunch. Rp.410,190 net.
Table8 (Chinese): Christmas Eve set menu dinner. Starts from Rp.650,980 net.
Christmas Day set menu. Starts from Rp.650,980 net.
Il Mare (Italian): Christmas Eve set menu dinner. Rp.965,580 net.
Cascade Lounge: Christmas Eve light international buffet. Rp.337,590 net.
Phone: (021) 5747777.

Park Lane
Cafe One: Christmas Eve buffet. Rp.250,000 ++ per person. Children from 5-12 half price.
Riva: Christmas Eve & Christmas Day, 5-course festive dinner menu. Rp.650,000 ++
Phone: (021) 8282000.

Pullman Jakarta Central Park
Christmas Eve dinner. Rp.396,880 net per person. Food only.
Christmas Day brunch. Rp.360,580 net. Food only.
Phone: (021) 29200088.

Ritz-Carlton (Mega Kuningan)
Asia Restaurant: Christmas Eve dinner. Rp.538,000 ++ per person (inc. free flow non-alcohol drinks). Rp 638,000 ++ (inc. free flow beer, sparkling wine, red and white wine). 6pm – 10pm.
Christmas Day brunch. Rp.558,000 ++ (inc. free flow non-alcohol drinks). Rp.658,000 ++ (inc. free flow beer, sparkling wine, red and white wine). 11:30am – 3pm.
Lobo: Christmas Eve dinner, 7-course set menu. Rp.758,000 ++. 6pm – 10.45pm.
Christmas Day brunch. Rp.658,000 ++ (inc. free flow non-alcohol drinks). Rp.808,000 ++ (inc. free flow martinis, sparkling wine, red and white wine). 12pm – 3pm.
Phone: (021) 25518888.

Sari Pan Pacific
Fiesta: Christmas Dinner buffet over Dec. 24-26. Rp.250,000 ++ per person. 6pm – 10pm.
Christmas Day brunch. Rp.280,000 ++.  11am – 3pm.
Keyaki: Christmas buffet dinner over Dec. 24-25. Rp.400,000 ++. 6pm – 10.30pm.
Phone: (021) 2993 2753, 2993 2752.

Shangri La
Satoo: Christmas Eve buffet lunch. Rp.602,580 net/person; Rp.301,290 net/child.
Christmas Eve dinner. Rp.602,580 net/person; Rp.301,290 net/child.
Christmas Day buffet lunch. Rp.602,580 net/person; Rp.301,290 net/child.
Christmas Day dinner. Rp.602,580 net (inc. non-alcohol beverages); Rp.301,290 net/child.
Rosso: Christmas Eve dinner, 4-course set menu. Rp.683,650 net (inc. free flow of juices and soft drinks). Rp.953,480 net (inc. free flow of juices, soft drinks and wine).
Christmas Day buffet brunch. Rp.598,950 net (inc. free flow of non-alcohol drinks). Rp.780,450 net (inc. free flow of soft drinks, ice tea, wine and sparkling wine).
Christmas Day dinner, 4-course set menu. Rp.574,750 net (inc. one glass of red or white wine).
BATS: Christmas Eve and Christmas Day set menu dinners. Rp.477,950 net (inc. one glass of red or white or sparkling wine).
Phone:  (021) 5707440.

Bars & Restaurants

Aphrodite: Christmas Eve and Day meal specials. (021) 527 3307.

Cazbar: Main course Christmas menu. Rp.145,000 net. (021) 576 4582.

De Hooi: Christmas specials. (021) 7500742.

Double Doors: Christmas specials menu in the lead-up to December 25. (021) 58356816.

Eastern Promise: 3-course set menu on Christmas Eve (7pm – 10pm) and Christmas Day (12pm – 10pm). Rp.175,000 net or Rp.145,000 net for main course only; Rp.50,000 net per child.  (021) 71790151.

Hazara: Christmas & New Year set menu over Dec 23 to Jan 7: Rp.225,000 ++. Minimum order: 8 persons. (021) 31925053.

Molly Malone’s Irish Pub: From December 22, 3-course Christmas lunch all day. Rp.200,000 ++.  (021) 71794510.

Murphy’s Irish Pub: Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, 3-course Christmas lunch. Rp.200,000 ++. (021)7183382.

La Na Thai: Christmas & New Year set menu over Dec 23 to Jan 7: Rp.225,000 ++ /person. Minimum order: 8 persons. (021) 31925037.

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Jalan Batubelig is a 3 km stretch of winding road starting from Leo Square junction (going west) off Jalan Kerobokan Raya, which becomes Jalan Berawa at the bridge leading then onto Canggu Club. It is one of the fastest growing parts of the west coast of North Kuta, with land prices doubling along this road in 2011, moving it into the Seminyak price bracket.

Pavilion is the most outstanding restaurant grill bar on Jalan Batubelig, both in terms of its modern architectural structure, a classic Europeanstyle big pavilion, with two highceiling tent posts and broad blue and white striped main building, and the music, art and culture found within. Though just one year old this month, it has established itself as one of Bali’s chicest places to eat, meet and greet. It features Bali’s most famous Jazz group, Rio Sidik Quartet weekly and holds monthlong art exhibitions from reputable galleries and individual artists, ensuring there is a continuous change of scenery inside and out. So let’s hear what this young designer, owner and operator, Vanessa de Vries, and lead vocalist and trumpet player, Rio Sidik, have to say.

Vanessa, what was the inspiration for Pavilion?

Pavilion is my first grill bar. I moved back to Seminyak/Canggu two and a half years ago, so I guess I settled on this being the place for me. I’d been walking around with different ideas in my head about Pavilion for quite a while. Only after signing the contract to lease the land, though, did I start to collect all my ideas together and create the concept you see today. The feel I wanted to create is nautical and fresh — like you are on a big roomy yacht —and I think I have achieved that.

We started out with our walls covered in huge photographs of big ocean racing yachts which added to the nautical theme. In the last few months, we have been exhibiting different artists and galleries paintings, sculptures and other artwork. We often see our guests walking round slowly, viewing the paintings and getting immersed in different pieces, which later they come back and buy.

What really makes us unique in Jalan Batubelig is we are the only venue that puts on world class live music acts for free. There is no cover charge, our food and drink prices are unchanged on these nights, and so people get a brilliant live music performance that becomes one of the highlights of their stay in Bali. And we have lots of parking at the back, which is a real plus.

Why a bar grill? Who is your target market?

You, me and the rest of Bali! We specialise in grilled seafood and steaks. Our steaks are very popular. Simple but pure. Organic and fresh is the food that suits our identity. This philosophy we also use for our drinks and cocktails. “Elegant enough to bring your date, casual enough to bring the family, affordable enough to come back often…” is the way I would describe it. We have developed quite a large clientele who come regularly; expatriates living nearby, and lots of tourists too. Both are loyal customers and loyalty is very important for any new business.

You opened just a year ago, and got the place off to a good start very quickly. How did you do this?

Pavilion has its ups and downs. Sometimes it’s quiet and sometimes it’s full. We are always looking at ways we can become more stable. Perhaps we opened a little early for this location. But this area of Bali is growing very fast, and is getting better known. It’s a classier part of Bali. We get up to 150 people one night, 20 the next. It helps to have an “event”, like our club meets, Hot Soul and Jazz nights. Now we are moving back to the high season again. People walking or driving by see us as sophisticated and associate that with being expensive. Not so. Our customers consistently rate us as having excellent food, drinks and service — at great Bali prices.

I handpicked our team. They are all excellent, welltrained, experienced professionals, very open and friendly with our customers. This is a big part of our appeal. You can sit at the bar and talk to any of our staff in English or Indonesian. A couple of them know some other European languages too. Their friendly Indonesian professionalism shines through. And I am here most of the time in the evenings to keep our great team motivated — shifting up a gear when we need to, which we all enjoy.

You are known for having the most famous of Bali’s Jazz musicians with his all-star band, Rio Sidik Quartet as a regular feature on Thursday nights.

That’s exactly right. Rio likes playing love songs and sexy jazz. They are great nights. People love the music, the style of the place. Rio attracts a lot of beautiful ladies and that makes the place look good, creates a real buzz. We all love Rio and his band. They are brilliant, real top professional musicians, the best jazz and fusion band in Bali. Parents bring their kids to experience these special nights. It’s very relaxed. We try to do something special on such big occasions. People love the food and range of drinks, too.

Thursday nights with Rio really helps bring a crowd in. People then come to see what else we have on. Wednesdays and Fridays we have fantastic DJ’s playing. Wednesday night is HOT at Pavilion with exotic swing music mixed by one of my favourite DJ’s. Fridays nights are popular too. We have Aperitivo that starts at 5:00 pm before dinner with special drink prices, free canapés — tasters taken from the menu — and later on a great DJ. Weekends are getting busier again as more people come in for an enjoyable evening with their friends — and to make new friends.

It’s good music all day long. Every night of the week is a bit different at Pavilion.

Jl. Batu Belig 106, off Jalan Kerobokan Raya, North Kuta, Bali
Tel: 0361 4737634
Email: info@pavilionbali.com
FB: PaviliongrillbarBatubeligBali

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You have probably noticed it by now, but Indonesians love to eat and they love to make you eat. One way to celebrate this eating fest is the Sunday brunches offered by most grand hotels in the capital. Although each place has its own specificities, the concept is more or less the same. You get there around noon, there is too much food and drink for you to handle, and there are areas for kids to play while you can enjoy a last dessert, coffee or an afternoon glass of wine. Indonesia Expat has visited a few places for you.

Satoo at Shangri-La Hotel

Offering the real Indonesian brunch experience, the Sunday brunch at the Shangri-La Hotel is loud, busy and opulent. There are lots and lots of food choices. The restaurant offers twelve open-kitchen stations ranging from authentic Indian cuisine, innovative western cuisine, exotic Asian and Indonesian cuisine, a variety of noodles, pastas and cold appetizers, and desserts. If you are not so hungry, you can also order à la carte. The melt-in-your-mouth grilled salmon is particularly delicious. Little guests can also enjoy several outdoor activities on the hotel’s spacious garden, such as a bouncing castle, pony ride, magic show, painting show and nail art while parents enjoy a relaxing moment by the pool. A great place for a real Indonesian Sunday brunch experience with a big group of people. Smoking-free restaurant. You can book online.

Opening hours: 11:30 am – 3:00 pm
Price: Rp.310,000 for the brunch including one tea or coffee and free flow of water and jamu. Alcohol is paid à la carte.
Address: Kota BNI, Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 1
Visit the website

Pacific at Ritz-Carlton Pacific Place

Classy, intimate and relaxing, the Pacific Restaurant at Ritz-Carlton is a totally different experience. Located at the 6th floor of the Ritz-Carlton edifice in SCBD, it provides a gorgeous panoramic view of the city. The Pacific Restaurant offers less option than the other buffet in the same category, but is more refined. Portions are smaller but tastes are more researched. Among many things you can taste an excellent beef tataki or tuna tartare and the foie gras burger is a must. The service is erased, attentive, and meticulous. The children’s area is indoor and separated from the sitting area and the lovely staff can have a look at your children while you enjoy the view and maybe one last mouth-watering dessert or coffee. Fresh fruit juices are succulent. The live jazz music is perfectly tuned with the relaxing atmosphere.

Opening hours: 11:30 am – 3:00 pm
Price:

• Without alcohol: Rp.308,000 including unlimited fresh juice and ice tea
• With alcohol: Rp.498,000 / person including unlimited urban cocktail, wine, beer and juice
• Children (6-12 years old): Rp.168,000

Address: Sudirman Central Business District (SCBD)
Jl. Jendral Sudirman Kav. 52-53
Jakarta, 12190 Indonesia
Visit the website

Il Mare at Mulia

Mulia Hotel is just grand. There is something about this place that makes you feel like royalty. The Mulia Hotel doesn’t only have one Sunday brunch, they have three. One at The Café, which is the regular buffet, one at Table 8 and one at Il Mare. I went to the latter, Il Mare. This well-established restaurant offers classical Italian cuisine, such as all sorts of pastas and pizzas and a table full of delicious meat and fish carpaccio. The Il Mare formula is a bit different than the other brunches. Although there is an actual buffet where you can dig in yourself in the numerous plates offered, you can also wait at the table while the kitchen provides you with a selection of amuse-gueule for three hours. The crème brûlée de foie gras is to die for.

Opening hours: 11:00 am – 2:00 pm
Price:

• Without alcohol: Rp.368,000 including free flow of ice tea, iced lemon tea, soft drinks or fruit juices. Coffee and tea are charged additionally.
• With alcohol: Rp.498,000 including unlimited urban cocktail, wine, beer and juice.
• Children (three to eight years old): Rp.178,000

Address: Mulia Hotel, Jl. Asia Afrika Senayan, Jakarta
Visit the website

Seasons Café at Four Seasons

The Four Seasons’ Sunday brunch is probably the biggest one of all. There are so many food choices, there is a good chance you will not even see it all. Ranging from sushi to French raclette, to Balinese suckling pig; there is something for everybody. Among many things, the cheese selection is great. If you go with a group or if you have specific demands, it might be a good idea to reserve ahead as it gets pretty busy. The children play area is outside by the swimming pool. It is small but has everything little ones need to enjoy themselves. You can ask for a table near the window to keep an eye on your little ones. Big downside however, it is next to a smoking area.

Opening hours: 12:00 pm – 3:00 pm
Price:

• Without alcohol: Rp.408,000 including unlimited ice lemon tea and fresh juices
• With alcohol: Rp.558,000; free flow sparkling wine and house wines
• Children (five to 10 years old): Rp.205,000

Address: Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Jakarta Selatan
Visit the website

Cinnamon Restaurant at Mandarin

The Cinnamon Restaurant at Mandarin Hotel has a more modest brunch compared to the others in terms of choices available, as well as originality. The menu is mainly Asian and the specialty of the Cinnamon Restaurant brunch is the outdoor BBQ area where you can get fresh seafood and meat. The restaurant itself, surrounded by the rooftop garden and open-kitchen area, has a cosy feel to it. The nicest feature about this brunch is definitely the location for those who like to take part on Sudirman Carfree Sundays. You can have a nice bike ride and pull over for brunch. There is no children’s play area.

Opening hours: 11:30 am – 2:30 pm
Price:

• Without alcohol: Rp.330,000 with free flow of juices, water, coffee and tea. Alcohol is paid à la carte.
• Children (five to 10 years old): Rp.165,000

Address: Jl. M.H. Thamrin
Visit the website

Signatures Restaurant at Hotel Indonesia Kempinski

Signatures Restaurant at Hotel Indonesia is one of our Coup de Coeur. Apart from the central location, we enjoy the modern yet warm decor and ambience and the well-designed playground for little VIPs featuring a tree house, slide, stuffed toys, books and craft material. Although the self-proclaimed specialties here are bubur ayam, oxtail soup and homemade ice cream, there is a vast selection of breads & pastries, Western, Indonesian, Chinese, Japanese food and everything pork. The dessert menu is fabulous. Don’t miss out on the macaroons. Service is impeccable. Perfect for families with younger children.

Opening hours: 12:00 pm -15:00 pm
Price:

• Without alcohol: Rp.318,000 with free flow of juices, ice tea, lemon tea, water, coffee and tea. Alcohol is paid à la carte.
• Children (five to 10 years old): Rp.159,000

Address: Jl. M. H Thamrin No. 1
Visit the website

C’s Steak and Seafood at Grand Hyatt Jakarta

C’s Steak and Seafood, the signature restaurant at Grand Hyatt Jakarta, offers a revitalized Sunday Brunch concept with unlimited servings of appetizers, premium seafood on ice, and variants of brunch cocktails, and – what makes us love this brunch more – a glass of bubbly.

The Extravagant and Bubbly Sunday Brunch concept starts on a refreshing note with the finest quality steak and seafood selections located at the entrance. Seafood and meat lovers will be spoiled by a premium marine harvest which includes lobsters, prawns, clams, alongside an exquisite selection of premium US and Japanese beef. Fancy cocktails and champagnes are also served to perfectly pamper those who are looking for the complete brunch experience.

Throughout the month of January 2016, chocolate lovers can revel in sinful moments of indulgence with C’s special chocolate tasting platter. The platter offers four different kinds of chocolate from Indonesia, presented as part of our grand dessert buffet. In addition, a variety of savoury and sweet soufflés will be introduced weekly, along with a new selection of decadent desserts, all of which will surely satisfy any sweet tooth.

“In January 2016, we are pleased to announce that our buffet packages will include free-flowing brunch cocktails and bubbly to be served, “said Rolf Knecht, Executive Chef of Grand Hyatt Jakarta. Happy days!

Opening hours: 11.30 am – 3 pm, every Sunday.

Price:

Rp.700,000++ per adult, including bloody marys, mojitos, soft drinks, juices, water, tea or coffee

Rp.900,000++ per adult package includes with premium wines (Prosecco, white wine, and red wine).

Rp.1,100,000++ per adult, package includes Bollinger Champagne.

Prices are subject to 10 percent service charge and prevailing government taxes. Children between the ages of 6 and 12 will receive a 50 percent discount, and brunch is complimentary for children below the age of 6.

Address: Jalan M. H. Thamrin Kav. 28-30, Jakarta 10350

Visit the website

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Keyaki Restaurant

Japanese cuisine is no doubt an acquired taste to some. In Jakarta, Japanese food has often been ‘watered down’ to more casual joints, with modified flavours and sometimes questionable freshness. For modern Japanese restaurants, fusion sushi is the usual deal. Traditional Japanese restaurants don’t come in the bunch in Jakarta, but when you find a good one, you stick to that one. The key is freshness.

“Irasshaimase!” is the proper greeting at a Japanese restaurant, a phrase that means ‘welcome to our shop’. Upon being greeted in such a way at Keyaki restaurant, a nice traditional Japanese interior met the eyes, it was the sort of interior that compels you to feel transported to an actual Japanese home, just casually having lunch or dinner there for a few hours. Perhaps it’s the white walls with wooden squares accents, purposefully built like a shoji, a traditional Japanese room divider made of translucent paper and wood frames. Or perhaps it is the servers all dressed up in kimonos or the tatami dining setting at the VIP room. In any case, my first impression of Keyaki is centred on its success in creating a homey Japanese atmosphere.

Keyaki is housed under the roof of Sari Pan Pacific Jakarta hotel in Central Jakarta. It was first established in 1976, along with the opening of the hotel. Ever since then, Keyaki has undergone some renovations to get to its present state and even changed its name from Furusato to its current Keyaki. The place has since stayed true to its trademark of serving authentic Japanese cuisine among a sea of fusion sushi restaurants in the city.

By the entrance, a Robatayaki counter is proudly displayed. This is the Japanese way of grilling, and guests get an assortment of fresh seafood to choose from at this bar. In addition to the Robatayaki grill, and of course freshly cut sushi and sashimi, Keyaki’s cuisine is prepared in a variety of ways, such as teppanyaki, sukiyaki, yakiniku and even shabu-shabu.

Robatayaki counter

As I was shown to my seat in this spacious restaurant, the customary wet towel greeted me at the table, a common practice at Japanese restaurants. The friendly servers were quick to offer guests a glass of ocha, or green tea, which in Keyaki is offered on a free-refill basis.

Keyaki’s menu is very large and varied; it helps to know what you are jonesing for when coming in. If noodles are your preference, the Nabeyaki Udon (110K) is a classic must-try dish. Served with either chicken or beef, Nabeyaki Udon comes in a very large serving, with piping hot soup and vegetable tempura on the side. Most dishes in Keyaki comes in a large portion, it would be advisable to share.

To start, we dined on the Nama Yasai Mori, or fresh garden salad (45K). As previously said, freshness is key at this well-respected restaurant, and it’s even apparent in the preparation of the salad. Order the fresh salmon or tuna nigiri sushi and you won’t be sorry. The assorted Keyaki tempura dish (150K) is an instant favourite as a starter, featuring vegetables, shrimp and fish tempura with a soy-based tempura dip. The crunchiness of the tempura is just right and was a delicious start to the meal.

The food was prepared swiftly and elegantly as our sushi arrived. The salmon avocado roll (87K) was exquisite and fresh, it was gone in seconds. Another winner on the sushi menu is the Hot Special (86K) which is also a salmon-based roll with avocado and spicy seasoning. This roll takes home the trophy as the salmon is slightly smoked and is simply heaven to the palate.

Another sushi platter to arrive was the Rock ‘n Roll (98K), which consisted of scallops, grilled eel, prawn and bonito flakes. This particular roll is crunchy on the inside and the grilled scallops on top practically melts in your mouth. Served with a bit of mayonnaise, this is a great fusion sushi dish at Keyaki.

Gindara Set

One of the most recommended, mouth-watering dishes at Keyaki is the Gindara teriyaki zen (276K). This is a set menu with soft and properly seasoned cod fillet with Keyaki’s teriyaki sauce. This dish is served with rice, miso soup, salad and a mini tempura set. The set is a great option for lunch. The beef teriyaki set (240K) is another favourite of Keyaki’s patrons.

It’s not the end of the meal before dessert is served. Keyaki offers an array of ice cream and sherbet flavours, served with red bean paste on top for 48K/scoop. One of the tastiest is the black sesame ice cream (75K/scoop) and it is home-made. Other options for dessert include fresh fruits, pan-fried banana with honey and black forest cake.

Beverages at Keyaki are just as important as it complements your authentic Japanese food experience. Beer is served all day, sake is popular during dinner time and green tea is endlessly flowing.

Single diners are seen by the bunch at Keyaki, but tables of group business lunch-goers also frequent the restaurant, especially during the weekends when the weekend buffet deal (210K++) is on offer. Keyaki welcomes a large amount of regular customers every day, and these loyal customers are a testament to their delicious and fresh food daily. The chef makes sure that freshness of seafood, vegetables and all other dishes is up to a top-tier standard.

If you feel like having a nice lunch or dinner in what feels practically like Japan, Keyaki is a superior option. The authentic Japanese food at Keyaki is not only delicious, it’s a timeless classic.

Keyaki
Sari Pan Pacific Jakarta Hotel (lobby level)
Jl. MH. Thamrin 6, Central Jakarta
Ph: (021) 2993-2752

Hours:
Lunch: 11.30am – 2pm
Dinner: 6pm – 10.30pm

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Our expert epicure continues an undercover operation to bring you the truth about Jakarta’s dining scene. No spoon is left unturned in the quest for honest, balanced reviews, from long-established favourites to the hottest new tables in town.

This month, Jakarta’s first celebrity-chef establishment, Salt Grill.

Ever been told too much salt is bad for you? Serial dieters will, from their high horses, have you believe it is the very devil. Eternal damnation is in store for those who dare use it – God forbid your repast should have any flavour; flavour makes you fat, you know. Truly I pity those who don’t understand the real enemy is processed goods, fast food, ready meals, and anything resembling plastic more than animal, vegetable or mineral. Disappointingly, dinner at the dubiously-titled Salt Grill suggested the chef here is a paid-up member of the bland brigade.

Salt Grill opened in April 2013 to much fanfare. Luke Mangan, doyenne of Mod Oz cooking (that’s modern Australian to you and me) has eleven salty establishments from Sydney to Tokyo to Bali, and is to date the sole, bona fide celebrity expat chef to venture into Indonesia’s capital. Perched on the 46^th floor at Altitude the Plaza, the restaurant also boasts that coveted customer-magnet: a view. This one’s a doozy for macet masochists. The Jakaterati flock here for the flattering lighting and the chance to be seen whilst seeing Bundaran HI crawl to a standstill.

We had a good table, so celebrated with a glass of Nicolas Feuillatte champagne – a fairly ordinary bubbly, but not unreasonable at Rp.190,000 per glass. Regardless of price, a place like this should pour at the table, not bring out full glasses. How do customers know they’re getting the vintage they’ve paid for when it is unceremoniously plonked down as if from the air hostess’ trolley?

Our other wine choices—an underwhelming Bourgogne Chardonnay, a decent Barossa Valley Shiraz, and a passable pinot noir from New Zealand—ranged from Rp.140,000 to 210,000 per glass. All were simply OK; nothing special. The cellar apparently has over 1,200 bottles, with Australian naturally a strength. Still, I continue my challenge to restaurateurs to improve their by-the-glass game.

When reserving almost two weeks in advance, we informed the restaurant one diner was gluten-intolerant. Was there any gluten-free bread to go with Luke’s cold-pressed olive oil? No. Did the waiters have a clue what ‘gluten-free’ was, in order to advise on menu choices? No. It’s a specialised request but small details matter at this level, and some of Salt Grill’s competitors manage here without notice.

The menu includes tapas and ‘sharing’ dishes, in keeping with Mod Oz’s relaxed, barbie-in-the-backyard style. So, first, some tapas: whipped feta cheese ‘cigar’ with beetroot relish and prune puree. The puree was good, and it’s always nice to do something interesting with feta, but the pastry casing was chewy and pale rather than crisp.

The lobster bisque starter was easily the standout dish of the evening in terms of flavour. Its whiff of truffle was not unwelcome and the prawn tortellini were a nice touch, though somehow the shimeji mushrooms felt out of place. Unfortunately though, the large bowl it came in was cold, so the soup lost its heat quickly. My companion was unimpressed with the ‘signature’ starter, Sydney crab omelette with enoki mushroom, herb salad and miso mustard broth. The omelette and crab were painstakingly delicate in flavour, to the point of blandness. Chilli and Vietnamese-minty salad saved the dish—just—from abject mediocrity.

Salt Grill view (image from their website)

Mains arrived seconds after the removal of the first course, before our cutlery had been replaced and the table properly cleared. Service so far was disjointed and somewhat insincere, and when asked whether there was a second sitting on our table, the waiter went to check and never returned with a reply.

This is a grill, so we chose Scotch (rib-eye to northern-hemisphere folk) and lamb cutlets. The steak was so completely devoid of flavour, it was a black hole for taste buds. How is it possible to grill an Australian steak and have it taste neither meaty nor smoky? The béarnaise sauce was OK (though cold), and the green beans were fine, but a little lazy. You are obliged to order sides and pleasingly the parmesan-truffle fries were well-seasoned and not overpowering. A pear, sweet walnut, blue cheese and rocket salad was a good idea but messily executed with the salad undressed.

Lamb cutlets were better: soft, herby and more charcoal-grilled in flavour. But the red wine sauce was—and I’m sorry here—almost nasty; so bitter it must have been burned. They make a fuss of offering you a selection of Luke’s mustards. The tarragon one was unpleasantly vinegary and the Dijon wasn’t Dijon, but honeyed.We were rushed to order dessert. It’s hard to botch a chocolate assiette and this one was fine (though the ‘bar’ was a bit chewy). Embracing the restaurant’s roots we also chose a fusion option: coconut and kaffir-lime panna cotta. It was not set and swiftly disintegrated into a sad dribble. The strips of lime leaf were also a little too intense for the other ingredients.

It’s not just the dining room that is elevated here, but the prices too – this is one of the most expensive restaurants in Jakarta.

At this level, it’s just not good enough. I expect Mr. Mangan rarely cooks here but I hope he keeps an eye on things because the kitchen and staff are underperforming. Interestingly, Salt Grill has some of the most consistently positive word-of-mouth I’ve heard. I think part of the problem is that diners can also be guilty of confusing atmosphere and all-round hipness with quality. So, please. Learn the difference, and take your money elsewhere for the time being, where you will not feel quite so ripped off.

Cheque please!

Food: Rp.2,755,250

Drinks: Rp.905,000

Service: 10%

Total: Rp.3,660,250 (inc. taxes) for two

Salt Grill by Luke Mangan

Jl M.H. Thamrin No.28 – 30, The Plaza lt. 46, Jakarta Pusat, Jakarta 10350,

Phone: +62 (0) 21 2992 2448

saltgrillindonesia.com

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If you’ve been to Plaza Senayan or Pondok Indah Mall in Jakarta, chances are you’ve been to Monolog; the coffee shop-cum-all-day-diner popular among both Indonesian and expatriate customers. We meet the head chef, Takashi Iwasawa, and director, Evie Karsoho, to discuss the ins and outs of their successful eatery.

Chef Iwasawa, you’ve been living in Indonesia for over 18 years. Can you share your story of how you ended up living and working here?

Chef Iwasawa: I was eager to see the world. I came to Indonesia back in ‘97 to challenge myself and see how I would sustain living in a foreign country. Jakarta turned up to be my home away from home. Before I joined Monolog, I’ve worked in several restaurants including Italian, Thailand/Vietnamese, Korean BBQ, Indonesian, and Japanese fusion.

You are currently the head chef at Monolog, a very popular coffee shop and restaurant with two branches in Jakarta. Can you explain the restaurant’s concept to us?

Evie: Monolog is your neighbourhood coffee shop/all day diner. Over the years Monolog has served as a focal point for guests to enjoy great coffee and comfort food in a cosy and creative environment, where you can bump into your good friends, family, and very possibly, make new friends.

Whether guests are looking for a hearty breakfast to start the day or a warm blend of home brew coffee and tea in the afternoon – or even tasty cocktails (PIM branch only) come sundown – Monolog carries an extensively varied menu to cater to all.

Monolog is on par with coffee shops in Melbourne, London and Seattle. Why was it important for your team to bring this concept to Jakarta?

Evie: We were inspired by the openness, familiarity, and, of course, quality of some coffee shops from around the world. Being in a country that is one of the biggest coffee producing regions, we feel like we have the responsibility to translate and showcase what we in Indonesia are capable of.

The owner of Monolog, Christoph Darjanto, was a finalist in the Indonesia Barista Competition in 2011. What does it take to truly understand coffee and deliver the best cup each time?

Evie: We believe in three simple things to serve a great cup of coffee; love, passion and quality. We love our coffee, and that’s why we always search for the best quality bean, roasted or even in its raw form.

However, great beans can only translate to great cups through passionate and meticulous preparation, and that’s why at Monolog Coffee we always train our baristas continuously. This way, we can nurture their passion and love for coffee and we can serve great quality coffees consistently.

What thought and consideration goes into creating each dish on your menu and where do you find your inspiration?

Chef Iwasawa: I try to understand the local palate and make sure that the ingredients we use are always fresh. Periodically, Evie and I discuss our menu and carry out tastings; we try not to limit ourselves to certain cuisines in the menu creation process. We get inspired by menus from around the world.

What do you think is the secret to the success of Monolog?

Evie: I’ll give you the most cliché answer: we love what we do. It always makes our day when we see that smile and nod of approval in our patrons’ faces when they take that sip of cappuccino or a bite of that Monte Cristo sandwich. We take feedback seriously, whether it comes from our patrons or from our own team. We then evaluate and take action on improvement.

Chef Iwasawa: A solid team.

Your staff are very efficient. What kind of training do your employees undergo?

Chef Iwasawa: We do regular training on our menu to keep the quality consistent and we work with a system.

Evie: We have a SOP (Standard Operating Procedure) for our operational team and we revisit and retrain our team on a regular basis based on the SOP. In the hospitality industry, you are faced with different kinds of people with different kinds of backgrounds every day, therefore flexibility and emotional intelligence is needed. We encourage our team to articulate their minds and use their skills and knowledge to solve problems.

Chef Iwasawa, have you incorporated any Japanese tastes into the menu?

Chef Iwasawa: A few, not much – maybe more on the food preparation techniques rather than the taste.

As a chef of a busy restaurant in Jakarta, what obstacles do you face and how do you deal with these?

Chef Iwasawa: Because of the cultural and language differences, I have had some issues communicating with people, which has sometimes resulted in miscommunication. This is very crucial, especially in the kitchen, where everything is fast-paced and attention to detail is needed. So, I try to self-introspect, adapt, and keep trying to build a solid team. With open communication and optimism, we now have a good team.

Indonesia seems to be entering the ‘organic foods revolution’. Does Monolog also stock organic produce and if so, where do you source from?

Chef Iwasawa: We try to use local products/produce as much as we can, but not necessarily organic. We work very closely with our suppliers to get the freshest produce and ingredients available in the market.

Where are your clientele predominately from and how many patrons do you turnover per day?

Evie: We have a very diverse clientele from Australia, Japan, Southeast Asian countries, USA, European countries, and more. We love the diversity here. It keeps us challenged in delivering service excellence. We turnover more or less 300 patrons per day.

Does PT Gastronomica have any plans to open up a third branch, possibly outside of Jakarta? What are the company’s future plans?

Evie: Certainly. When and where, we don’t know yet. But we’ll let you know for sure!

How is the Indonesian diner different to the Australian diner, for example?

Chef Iwasawa: Menu wise, here at Monolog, we play around and try to be creative with our menu. We try to incorporate some local flavours into our menu, using local spices and ingredients.

What ingredient is the hardest to obtain in Indonesia?

Chef Iwasawa: Believe it or not, fresh seafood.

Do you have any events coming up?

Evie: Yes, we have The Local Table on Saturday 5 December at 10am at our Pondok Indah Branch. We will turn our coffee shop into a gastronomic playground. Chef Iwasawa will be bringing Japanese fusion to our guests with a five-course brunch menu, using only ingredients found in local markets. Music will be performed by KIMA!, a ‘90s hip-hop and R&B cover band, and we will have well known hosts such as the singer Febrian and celebrity chef, Yuda Bustara.

Besides your own restaurant, where is your favourite place to dine in Jakarta?

Chef Iwasawa: Most of the time, I eat at home. I do enjoy the food in Garcon and Olivier.

Thank you, both. To get in touch, please email: people@monolog-coffee.com

—

Monolog

Plaza Senayan CP 101 B, Palm Gate Entrance
Jl. Asia Afrika No. 8 – Jakarta 10270
P +6221 572 5144

Street Gallery 1st floor No. 101 B, Pondok Indah Mall 1
Jl. Metro Pondok Indah – Jakarta 12310
P +6221 2952 9775

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In a city stuffed full of Sunday brunch options, C’s Steak and Seafood at the Grand Hyatt Jakarta appeals to both gastronomes and thinkers. With a stunning array of responsibly-sourced crustacean and carnivorous treats, it is a unique experience to be savoured.

Jakartans love to brunch. Across the city, hotels and restaurants are transformed every Sunday into bustling hubs where families and friends meet up, spend time together, and most importantly, gorge themselves on stupendous cornucopias of grub. C’s Steak and Seafood is a keen contender in the game.

Occupying a sophisticated space in the interestingly-designed Grand Hyatt, C’s Sunday brunch unfolds over several long counters of gourmet goodies, with a live-cooking grill in the middle of it all: the star attraction.

Fruits-de-mer served at C’s Steak and Seafood Sunday brunch

Start your repast off with a pass at the lovely starters and salads. There is a fine selection of top-notch fruits-de-mer, easily the freshest and best-tasting seafood I’ve had in the city. The crab claws were big and bountiful. The jumbo prawns were juicy and sweet – not at all the fluffy-meated versions I’ve had elsewhere. And the lobster was simply stunning: meticulously cooked and served simply, to allow the flavour of the sea to come through on its own. Rounding out the start offerings is a cute selection of rather modern salads: a zingy citrus and beetroot was refreshing, and a classic tomato and cheese went down well too. Take some fresh, crusty bread with homemade roasted eggplant dip on the side to mop up the juices with.

By now you have almost certainly started to smell the tantalising fumes drifting over from the grills. Just in time, as you begin to salivate for your main course. I recommend starting with a piece of fresh grilled salmon. Something happens to salmon when it is treated lovingly on a chargrill: the skin and the flesh caramelise and in turn intensify the distinct flavour of the fish. C’s team of happy chefs have got this perfectly right. Have this along with a beautiful, plump prawn or two and a simple squeeze of lemon – close your eyes and the flavours transport you to Jimbaran’s beach barbecues.

Now for the serious business of meat – after all, what’s surf without the turf? At C’s you can choose from some of the best cuts of lamb and beef around. US or Australian striploin and ribeye are two of the delicious types of beef on offer. Choose your piece, or have the chef slice it for you, and then if you wish, grill to your liking. The attentive staff will bring it to you when it is ready, or you can wait, watch and anticipate the smoky goodness. I also recommend a slice from the lovely rack of lamb. The meats are all extremely well-flavoured, benefiting from the proper hanging processes and, naturally, the expert treatment at the hands of this kitchen.

To go with the main attractions, there is a vast selection of classic, essential sauces from mustards to gravies and beyond. Have this with some of the decadent potato or pasta dishes served on the side. Or, take a detour around Asia with C’s delicious dim sum, or the carefully prepared Indonesian curries, stir-fries, and noodle and rice dishes.

Desserts at C’s Steak and Seafood Sunday brunch

It’s difficult with such enticing savouries to enjoy, but you must leave room for the incredible desserts. The shining star is the chocolate, which you can taste raw in different strengths or rendered into luxurious tarts, pies and cakes. The one I tasted was suitably bitter and satisfyingly rich. Homemade ice creams are a strong suit, and various other inventive dessert designs change frequently according to what inspires the talented pastry chef.

At the helm of it all is Chef Rolf Knecht. Chef Rolf has a mission. It has nothing to do with marketing or bums in seats. He’s essentially a good guy who has worked out a couple of key things. First: Indonesia is blessed with wonderful produce. Second: it’s up to people like him to champion the use of it.

As such, the most astounding thing about the C’s brunch, apart from the exceptional taste and quality, is that the vast majority of the ingredients here are locally sourced. The freshness of the seafood makes sense when you think about the proximity of the bountiful waters off Lombok and Sumatra. So too do the sweet beets and tomatoes on the starter salads sing of the undulating Javanese hillsides.

But it doesn’t stop there; there is a rather large cherry on top. A year or so ago Chef Rolf decided his job wasn’t hard enough already. So he went sustainable too. This means frequent visits to producers to help teach them how to make sustainable products. He even invites his farmers to brunch, to witness what they often see as their humble product elevated and enjoyed by the city folk.

In terms of value, C’s is certainly worth every penny of the Rp.700,000++ it costs you for all-you-can-eat plus Bloody Marys, Mojitos and softies.

When you consider the luxe setting and the high quality of service too, this is good value in anyone’s book. I recommend you take the

Champagne package though, because you won’t find many other brunches in this city serving up the good stuff – namely Bollinger, when I visited – over the more ordinary Moët or Veuve.

All in all, C’s represents an exciting new angle on brunching in Jakarta. Here, you can yourself, tantalise your taste buds, at the same time satisfy your conscience that the sourcing of the ingredients is just as carefully thought through as the cooking of them.

C’s Steak and Seafood

Jl. M. H. Thamrin Kav. 28-30, Jakarta 10350, Indonesia,

Tel: +62 21 2992 1234

jakarta.grand.hyatt.com

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Our expert epicure continues an undercover operation to bring you the truth about Indonesia’s dining scene. No spoon is left unturned in the quest for honest, balanced reviews, from long-established favourites to the hottest new tables in town. 

To kick off the Muslim holy month of Ramadhan, the Critic visits Moroccan restaurant Maroush on the mezzanine floor of the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Jakarta.

It all started in a Blue Bird taxi one balmy, wet evening. Trapped on Sudirman with red tail lights blazing as far as we could see and moving centimetre by centimetre, we did the only thing reasonable: we thanked our driver for services rendered and set out into the wilds of Jakarta’s rush hour traffic on foot (and into fumes, soot, mud and questionable walking paths).

Three kilometres later, our nerves still intact and after many discussions on how to dodge menacing minivans whilst in supposed zebra crossings, we arrive at Maroush. What an oasis! We were greeted with tastefully painted gem-coloured walls and furnishings, wrought-iron doors and blown-glass décor. It was a quiet evening, with no signs of belly dancers or live music, as it was mid-week. On one side of the dining room, businessmen sat languidly sipping tea and puffing on sheesha pipes. A large group of well-dressed ladies celebrating an engagement or something equally as exciting sat in another corner emitting squeals of delight in short, staccato bursts throughout the evening.

We were certainly the odd couple out, of sorts. Sweaty, a little frazzled and weary, we certainly didn’t look like the kind that should be allowed into the restaurant. However, we were welcomed with warm smiles and immediate seating.

After collecting my thoughts and some deep-yogic breathing to exorcise the previous hour of treachery along the walkways, I read through a dizzying menu of cuisines. My companion and I sat immobilized and shared some mutual feelings of trepidation. We had heard of the fine Moroccan meals, but Indian and now Turkish, too? There was even a section on “Chindian” cuisine, a hybrid of Chinese and Indian fare.

Was Maroush simply one level up from an eclectic food court that tries to impress everyone only to dish disappointment instead?

In the end, we decided to order one dish from every section of the menu. By this point in the evening, nothing could have been worse than when I stepped into some slimy sludge that I mistook for a sidewalk somewhere along the Taman Semanggi interchange.

The Maître D’ brought some lovely harissa-spiced black olives, juicy raisins and salted peanuts to our table as a complement to our meal. It was a pleasant surprise and certainly went over well as we gulped down our icy brews. The Four Favorite Dips in One Plate displayed fine samples of their eggplant dips and hummus, with the spicy eggplant being the standout. Everything was arranged with a deft touch, and served with a variety of breads from pita to lavash to pide, a regional Turkish type of pita that looks and feels more like a soft, flat roll. It’s perfect for dips, and we definitely started to feel more confident in the kitchen’s ability.

Appetizer dips at Maroush 

As suspected, surprises abounded this evening, and not all of them as favourable as the dips and complementary snacks, when the Maître D’ presented a rather strange platter of white, which served as the Yayla Chicken Kebab. What was supposed to be a Turkish style kebab of minced chicken and spices with a garlic-infused yoghurt sauce looked more like a plate full of smashed, pasty meatball patties swimming in a sea of stark white yoghurt. I fail to understand how the dish could have looked appetizing to anyone other than a toddler. The kebab itself was lukewarm and dry with an overwhelming onion component, and the yoghurt could have been served with a more conservative hand. This was certainly not representative of the delicious minced kebab that sent me to another plane of existence from Istanbul some years ago.

However, the Royal Lamb Tagine arrived bubbling with dramatic delight; the sensuous aromas of prunes and spices engulfed the table as soon as the lid was lifted. A gorgeous fork-tender lamb shank rested perfectly in the centre, atop its savoury-sweet juices. It was delightful with the freshly buttered naan bread and pide. The Bhindi Do-Pyaza (okra cooked with onions and spices) also did not disappoint. Extremely tender, young okra stewed with Indian spices and caramelized onions provided a much-needed pop to the palate after all of the sweet-savouriness of the lamb and diverted attention away from the disappointing chicken kebab.

Lamb tagine

It’s not difficult to imagine a thriving dining room full of diners especially during Ramadhan, when Jakartans celebrate the breaking of the fast with the variety of decent preparations of the various cuisines they provide at Maroush. I suppose, when a restaurant sets out to appease the masses, each dish may not be as enjoyable as the other, but there is always something that satisfies. On the other hand, with too much variety there is a loss of focus and ability to retain excellence in a well-meaning kitchen, where outstanding dishes are diluted by the mediocre and downright dreadful. As a critic, this is something I encounter time and again in Jakarta. It is unfair to deny the kitchen one accolade and at the same time unfair to the reader to obscure any creation that doesn’t translate well to the table.

Maroush is a mixed bag as such. On the night we dined, it presented a very good Moroccan-style tagine, an appalling Turkish kebab and delicious Indian okra. The bread was decent, but the baklava dry and bland. And although an excellent pair of shoes did meet an untimely demise along the way, the culinary journey at Maroush was somewhat enjoyable.

Verdict: 3 stars out of 5

Maroush

Crowne Plaza Hotel Lt. 2

Jalan Jenderal Gatot Subroto Kav 2-3

Tel: 021-5289-2431 or 021-9277-2277

Website: www.nomi-inc.co.id

Price (Dinner for 2)

Drinks: Rp.100,000

Food: Rp.690,000

Tax (10 percent): Rp.79,000

Service Charge (10 percent): Rp.86,900

Total: Rp.955,900

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Jakarta’s premier special occasion French restaurant misses the mark

It is never a good sign when entering an eating establishment at the beginning of dinner service, which is usually around 7pm, and the dining room is empty. Granted, it was refreshing we were given everyone’s astute attention from the moment we stepped through the doors, but the stark contrast between a crowded open kitchen and the hollow echo of an empty dining room is a disturbing one to me.

This was not our first visit to Amuz, as we had fond memories of a delicious dinner with good friends when we first arrived in Jakarta, where the menu enticed and the food executed with panache. The service at the time was quite undisciplined, but forgivable. This time, we were met with more formal collaboration; from the moment we made our reservation online to our departure, there was a polished professionalism that indicated some scrutiny had been paid to the front-of-house.

However, a clear lack of attention to detail or just plain recklessness by some staff killed the otherwise perfect effort. During one change of service plates, one staff member seemed to notice something defective (or dirty, most likely) and walked away a few metres to brush it off with his fingers. He then walked back and place the same “clean” plate in front of me. Needless to say, I requested a new one by another staff member immediately after the incident.

Whether it was dust or a piece of food leftover from the dishwasher, it does not matter. The fact that the staff member did not have the decency to walk away to do this beyond my line of sight was shocking and profoundly unprofessional. What he should have done was excuse himself and bring a brand new plate. The question begs to be asked: are they inspecting their plates, and polishing glass and cutlery before service? Do service staff care at all?

Servers definitely weren’t inspecting the butter served to the table. We were presented with a lovely bread basket with an unfortunate pairing. After lifting the label sitting atop the chilled butter indicating its provenance, we saw a prominent spot of black mould sitting atop our expensive, imported, French butter.

Another seemingly small detail, but one that irked me nonetheless, was the aforementioned empty main dining room and our placement in the room. Amuz uses an online reservations service provider called Chope to assist with online reservations. Once a reservation is confirmed, you are immediately provided with a confirmation number and email. This system then provides your details to the restaurant staff to mind. One would think that the hostess or restaurant manager arranging the reservations for the day would select better tables for the few who make the effort considering an otherwise slow evening. Yet, we were sat in a corner of the restaurant, with no visibility of the open kitchen, which is premium seated for foreigners. There were only four other tables in the main dining room from 7pm until about 9:45pm. To me, this just screams lack of actual forethought in dining room management and planning.

Amuz prides itself on being one of Jakarta’s best French restaurants, for connoisseurs and those who enjoy luxurious dining experiences. True to form, they also have quite an extravagantly priced food and wine menu to match this claim. Apart from the special truffle menu that is a part of the seasonal celebration of this wonderful ingredient, we were a bit surprised by the more banal and classical selections on the main menu. It turned out the most interesting and delicious items were surprisingly un-French: a Spanish tapas sampler and the Iberico de Bellota Pork Pluma, both of which are Spanish in origin and inspiration.

Spanish Tapas Sampler

The classical approach of steamed white asparagus and beef prepared two ways were uninspired and lifeless. Although cooked well, with no fault in preparation (except for perhaps a light-handedness in seasoning), it was difficult to reconcile the price tag for a couple of dishes that any average French bistro could have dished up and put in front of me for considerably less.

White Asparagus and Poach

In fact, nothing impressed much. The presentation was a bit pedestrian for four-star dining.

Perhaps my days spent sampling and conducting tastings at a premier French culinary school with Michelin-starred chefs have ruined me for life when it comes to luxurious French dining, but I did expect just a tad bit more. Chefs have to understand, it is difficult to pull the wool over the eyes of sophisticated diners. Time and again, I have stated that diners are starting to realize the true value of food as palates become more cultivated and dining out happens more frequently.

Habitual diners of fine-dining establishments such as Amuz easily and quickly become cynical, and the claim of being “one of the best” needs to be supported by a really outstanding meal with cooks who can finesse expensive ingredients and staff who can deliver excellence upon every rupiah paid.

The highlight of our evening was the soufflé infused with Grand Marnier. Standing tall and light, with the perfect custard interior, I relished every bite. It was a pure taste of France. My dining companion’s cheese platter was an afterthought.

An empty dining room is the first sign for any restaurant that something is not working well. Perhaps Amuz can still save itself by finding new inspiration and paying attention to the details.

2 stars

Amuz Gourmet Restaurant

The Energy Building, 2nd Floor SCBD Lot 11A
Jalan Jendral Sudirman Kav. 52-53 Jakarta 12190

Telephone: 021 250 5064

Website: amuzgourmet.com

Dinner for Two

Drinks: Rp.453,000

Food: Rp.2,150,000

Service Charge: Rp.260,300

Tax1: Rp.286,330

Total: Rp.3,149,630

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