Food Good Indonesia

On Jalan Kemang Timur Raya you can find an array of galleries and home decor shops; Kemang has an abundance of shops that live to fancy up homes. Some of these businesses have cleverly tempted patrons to stay longer with sweet and savoury treats. Lio Gallery Bistro, Bar and Lounge has done just that.

Restaurants in Jakarta seem to understand escapism better than any other city I’ve been to and Lio Bistro is no exception. The venue feels relaxed, comfortable and down to earth, though this is not to be mistaken for a lack of attention nor effort but a focus on unwinding and putting your feet up. In the rectangular space, holding an intimate seating capacity of 60, two of the four walls are glass panel windows. Behind the bar is an exposed red brick wall and the other side is reclaimed wood from train tracks. Rustic table sets are in the style of shabby chic; distressed wood with faint stripes of yellow and teal. The creative details are clearly accentuated by the opulence of natural light chiming in from the tall walls of windows. One side views the uncommonly large parking area (especially for Kemang!) whilst the other glimpses the outdoor pool. Lio Bistro’s Bambang Reguna Bukit explicates the space’s intention to be unpretentious and welcoming for people to come and hangout for food, drinks or even a swim.

The menu in Lio Bistro offers European and Indonesian dishes. The prices are varied offering very reasonable priced items to the more pricey luxury dishes such as Foie gras. As we took a cursory look at the drinks menu, Joe Nicolaas, Marketing Communications, and Olivia Marapaung, General Manager, sat with us and recommended the Exotic Lio which is a fresh blueberry yoghurt drink with a hint of refreshing mint alongside a Black Pineapple Margarita which tasted like caramelised pineapple that subdued and surprisingly blended well with the taste of tequila.

We decided to stick to recommended items this day. For starters – Foie gras, mains- Red Snapper and Poulet Grille- not officially recommended by the chef but a customer favourite, for dessert – Chocolate Bar. I do not eat Foie gras but immediately realised that presentation was held in high regard here. Grilled apples lay at the bottom underneath the seared Foie gras garnished with micro greens and cranberries. Cecilia, my sidekick for this review, complimented the well seared exterior of the rich Foie gras that had a nice crispness; well suited with the tartness of the grilled fruits. Next we were presented with the Poulet Grille and Red Snapper. The Red Snapper fillet sat on top of Mediterranean grilled vegetables and came with a Red Pepper Ketchup. Although the snapper was a touch over cooked, the flavours from the garlic herb butter were lovely. I love ketchup and enjoyed the tartness it added but if like Cecilia, you prefer a more soft flavour combination, do ask for it to be served without the ketchup.

The Poulet Grille made me miss my Sunday roasts – a big old leg of roasted chicken on top of mashed potato with thick gravy, wilted spinach and baby carrots. This dish made me wish it would rain so I could eat and look out the window and feel the full comfort that I remember with my Sunday roasts in rainy miserable London. If you are a bit down and want to eat your feelings, have the Poulet Grille. I shamelessly left nothing but bone on my plate. The Chocolate Bar is a layer of custard and chocolate mousse with passion fruit jam and sliced almonds in between covered in a chilled and hardened chocolate coating that resembles a giant chocolate bar. This comes with a thick ginger syrup and ice cream. A big portion and I do suggest it to be shared.

What resonates the most from my experience is the impeccable presentation of the dishes. Although the dishes look posh and elegant, no snoot can be found here. The staff are warm and attentive and treat you like a friend they’ve invited for a catch up.

Lio Collection- Gallery, Bistro, Bar and Lounge

Jl. Kemang Timur No. 50, Jakarta, Indonesia 12730
Monday – Saturday: 11am- 11pm
Sunday: 7am – 11pm

Phone:+62 217180501
PIN BB: 256BC483

Lio has recently introduced ‘Barbeque Splash’ on Sunday from 11am – 4pm. Pick two of the three BBQ options and all you can eat Spaghetti Aglio Olio and Classic salad for 150K per person or a bargain 100K per person for a Family of 5 deal.

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Meet Liat Solomon. The owner of Zula, Down to Earth, and Earth Café where focus is on creating a better world through pure, organic foods.

When did you come to Bali originally?

The first time I came to Bali was in 1996 to visit. I came as a tourist at the end of all my studies in NYC. I came on holiday and fell in love with Bali and said, “One day I’m going to come back here.”

What got you to pursue the benefits of macrobiotics and whole foods?

When I returned to NYC my mother became ill. I took care of her during her illness. She died on April Fool’s day, 15 years ago. I began working with cancer groups for breast and ovarian cancers, teaching women a new lifestyle. But I started my wellness education before that when my grandmother was sick. I lost about twelve women in my family to these cancers, all between the ages of 49 and 54. My grandmother was one of the main characters in my script. She was a strong woman with a beautiful character. I was 19 when she died. That’s what really inspired me. So when my mother passed I was already in a huge loft on 5th avenue. I was featured on the first page of the NY Times for the ‘new cuisine in NYC’.

Who were your clients?

In the early 90’s I made food for Al Pacino, Kevin Costner, David Byrne, even the Dalai Lama. Through the agencies I was hired to go to their homes or yachts and cook. I was a specialty cook . Macrobiotics was completely new at that time. It was the early nineties. So I did gallery openings and special events. There were not many of us doing organic and vegan foods.

I remember in NYC back then there were very few health food places.

There were maybe six places; Angelicas and Village Greens in the East Village. Whole Foods was a tiny shop close to Dean and DeLucas in Soho on Prince Street. I was a classical ballet dancer for 25 years. So I started working freelance doing health food shop tours and teaching people how to shop properly, not just off the shelf. Also my mother was a bit of a hippie so I had soy milk early in life. We would march in protests and not eat meat. By the time I was 19 years old I was very into macrobiotics. It was my high. I was really into a healthy lifestyle and changing the world through nutrition. It is about people making peace within themselves at the cellular level. This is the course I follow.

What was your formal education in the field of wellness?

I opened my first restaurant at the age of 18, and another when I was 19 to 21 years old. When I was 21, the first macrobiotic school opened in NYC. It was originally called Gulliver and then changed to the Institute for Integral Nutrition. The very first year there were only five students. It was an intensive four year course back then. I studied with the best: Mark Kronenburg, Dian Avoli, Mori Snyder, Bill Spear, Herman Aihara, Joshua Rosenthal, Bill Tera, Anne Wigmore and Kushi. At orientation we were asked, “Why are you here?” Everyone said things like change my lifestyle or I want to learn how to eat but for me it was very clear why I was there. “I will change my DNA! I have Eastern European heritage and so many family members were sick with cancers and diabetes. Not me! I will not have that verdict of sick at forty five and dead by fifty four.”

I read recently that Russian scientists have proven that we can change our DNA?

Oh yes, for me there is no doubt! At the same time that I was going to NY City College, I wanted to understand more about biology and chemistry. I did my pre-med studies at the same time I studied at The Pacific Institute for Chinese Medicine. For one year I lived in Michio Kushi’s house; I cooked for the family and took care of Evelyn Kushi before she died. Then I became Michio Kushi’s scribe.

I learned so much being his scribe, taking notes of his many talks, like an apprentice. No one could understand his notes. I learned about diagnosing people and I developed an intuitive way of diagnosis. The night of his daughter’s birthday, she had died of ovarian cancer; I did something that really touched him. They were into Shintoism and had an altar with a shrine of her with her guitar, her scripts, her photos and flowers. Every day the students knew to put the rice, water and candle there for her spirit. I put the shrine at the head of the table to acknowledge her enduring presence. I made a cake. I really wanted to please him. Everyone around the table got a blessing from him. He would ask what number I was and I replied, “I am 858”. His eyes met mine and he said, “One day you will be a great teacher.” At the time I was not sure I wanted to just be a teacher, but now I know the meaning of what he said.

Being a teacher is one of the great ways to give back and share your knowledge.

Yes, and it doesn’t have to be a teacher in the traditional sense. That was a time of great learning with true healing masters. I feel honoured to have been able to spend time gaining the wisdom they so generously shared. I really enjoy spreading my message and that is what my business is about.

People can come to your establishments and fill bottles with clean water, no plastic. You have announcements of holistic, healing events. Are you doing any special events right now?

Tomorrow I will do a class on macrobiotic food preparation. I do many different classes and am involved in all aspects of the cafes and shops.

Tell me about when you first started out with Zula.

Yes, it was very small, only four by four metres and everything was sold for less than cost because there was no way I could charge the actual price to people back then. So many things change. The way it works to this day in my shops is that when I get a better price I pass it on to the customer, so prices fluctuate according to what I get the product for. If I get it cheaper, so does the customer.

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The already stunning reputation of Potato Head restaurants is now matched with a daring new look. After a short hiatus, Potato Head at Pacific Place Mall is now open with lavish new menus and decor.

Coinciding with their fifth year anniversary, Potato Head launched a two-week extravaganza called ‘Culinary Journey’, taking place from November 16th until November 30th 2013. In the space of two weeks, Potato Head brimmed with events from pop-up bars featuring guest mixologists from around the world, to a fried chicken feast and brunch experiences.

In this remodelled venue, Potato Head brings you a more relaxed atmosphere on the terrace area, where you can sip on their new signature cocktails in the middle of Jakarta’s heat and humidity, and still feel cool and at home. This revamped version of Potato Head boasts a large terrace area with new colourful rattan patio furniture, reminiscent of a 1960 California home. Greenery also plays a part in the terrace area, providing guests with that comfortable, breezy setting. At night this area is lit up by chic vintage lamps. But the biggest change on the terrace area is definitely the new wine bar; Potato Head is now a proud home of 135 different types of wine. In fact, they had a wine fest just last week, featuring bottles from Argentina, Italy, France, Australia, USA, and many more.

Inside, a feeling of familiarity can be felt; the Potato Head aura still exudes uniqueness and a cosy ambience. Heading over to the bar area, you’ll be greeted by Potato Head’s newest addition, their head mixologist, Megan Demeulenaere, freshly ‘imported’ from London just a month ago. She will immediately get you excited about a new concept of drinks that will be creating a buzz all over town. Megan is passionate about taking ordinary drinks one step further.

“Your mediocre bottle service could include so much more than just the usual vodka and cranberry juice,” Megan said. Megan and partner, Rhys Wilson, head mixologist of Potato Head Garage, created a concoction of beverages that would go well with your preferred liquor. Splendid creations, I reckon. They’ve carefully created – with just the right amount of fresh ingredients – four different bottled mixes that can be paired well with a spirit of your choice; vodka, gin, whisky, tequila, you name it. My favourite is their Meg’s Malted Lemonade combined with a little whisky. The mango garnish adds a hint of raw freshness to the drink. The concept is, if I may say so myself, bottle service without the boring bottles.  “I can’t say no one else in the world is doing this…but no one else in the world is doing this,” Rhys added jokingly.

The new organic and homey Potato Head also has some surprises lined up for the epicures of Jakarta.

Potato Head’s new menu is more compact, yet still provides a wide range of dishes with refined touches, compared to the old menu. Their spicy tuna tartare starter is a hot new treat; hot for its wasabi infused avocado and chilli oil – great for a fresh and tasteful lunch appetizer. Wash it down with their Calypso mocktail, a delicious ‘fruit punch’-like creation, combining lime, pineapple and orange juice with a hint of ginger sugar. Potato head’s mushroom soup is also a particularly must-try dish; a bowl of rich blended mushroom with foie gras ravioli garnish.

Potato head’s list of dishes also include a ‘small bites’ option, perfect to be shared. My favourite, the mushroom and cheese tartine – a hearty bruschetta-like delight with bread topped with mushroom and cheese, with a side of sweet potato fries. A proud new addition to the menu is a selection of charcuterie. Desserts, such as the sweet almond-infused pudding, Blancmange, is a closing number not to be missed.

The philosophy is to bring the world to guests; to expose bits and pieces of the world right here at the comfort of your neighbourhood joint, Potato Head. Hence, the multiple events featured in ‘Culinary Journey’. One of the pop up bar events showcased Employee’s Only bar from New York, which was awarded World’s Best Cocktail Bar at the 2011 Spirited Awards in the USA. Bartenders from Employee’s Only live and breathe cocktails; they came to Potato Head and exposed guests to the exquisite world of cocktail-making and cocktail-creating. There was also a showing of ‘Hey Bartender’, a documentary film on craft bartending, that heavily featured Steve Schneider from Employee’s Only. Steve said, “You never know who you’re serving,” explaining the spontaneous yet dramatic nature of the night time, action-packed profession. The fun-filled cocktail world was vividly portrayed at Potato Head that night.

After a five-year journey, this rejuvenation is just what the doctors ordered. Potato Head is surely stepping their game up and ready to play.

Potato Head
Pacific Place Mall G51A, SCBD
Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 52-53, Jakarta Selatan
PH: +62 21 57973322

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Shafa, Eve and Noah Shaping Cheeseburgers

Small hands are a big help, and kids enjoy eating their recipe creations.

Chubby hands held a measuring cup, poised to dump in more flour as her brother stirred. The eldest read the recipe aloud while the baby beat the linoleum with a wooden spoon. The big brothers wore dinosaur aprons, and little sister had a tea towel tucked in her sundress. This scenario is a fond memory with my children. Yes, it was messy and noisy, but what about childrearing isn’t? And while my youngsters had fun making bread or cookies, they also learned about maths, chemistry and nutrition. That middle son graduated from culinary school, and is now a chef in New York City. Best of all, every one of my brood can cook.

Learning one’s way around the kitchen and the basics of food preparation is a life skill. Like breathing and sleeping, we must do it each day, so why not get your kids in the kitchen? They generally eat what they enjoyed creating, so keep it fun. For the youngest ones, it is a hands-on chance to make a positive connection to food as raw ingredients become meals. Elementary age children learn about steps in a process by following directions, measuring, mixing and baking, while teens grasp concepts like meal planning and budgeting. If your child has special dietary needs, they can be taught how to address them. The whole family can be involved with field trips to fish or farmer’s markets and pick-your-own farms to understand food sources.

It is vital to supervise children in the kitchen and offer them age-appropriate tools to keep them safe. Offer them good access with step stools or lowered surfaces, such as a children’s table. Stay-put silicone mats stick bowls in place, and for preschoolers, stirring with chopsticks instead of spoons will keep the mess to a minimum. Little hands should use butter knives or plastic cutters, and when peeling vegetables, teach them to push away. Keep gadgets to a minimum to gain competence in basic skills.

Young Chef’s Academy Aprons

As you work together, kids will gain an overall appreciation for food – its variety, healthful aspects and the work involved. It takes time and patience initially to have kids in the kitchen, but the mess gets less with practice. It also is a great way to disarm the witching hour that precedes the evening meal.

At Young Chef’s Academy in Jakarta, children are grouped by age to learn kitchen safety, proper food handling, preparation, cooking and baking skills, presentation, table setting and manners. On a typical weekday, Chef Gori was instructing three children, ranging in age from four to eight years old. They took turns as their abilities allowed, reading the recipe, measuring ingredients and mixing. As the kids dipped potato chunks into seasoned mayonnaise and bread crumbs, the youngest boy giggled with glee, wiggling his cornbread crumb fingers. Every recipe needs a heaping helping of good humour. In between steps, like real cooks, the kids washed their hands at the sink again and again. When the meal of stuffed cheeseburgers and seasoned fries was ready, the children set the table, and then, sat to enjoy their meal.

Chef Gori often makes pasta in his cooking classes. “People don’t realize how easy it is,” he said, “just flour, an egg and salt, and plenty of fun to roll out the dough and put it through the pasta machine.” The school breaks the classes into Kindercooks, aged three to six years; Junior Chefs, aged seven to 12 years; and Senior Chefs for 13 years and above. Birthdays are often celebrated at Young Chef’s Academy for a practical party set-up. Additionally, orphanages and special needs children are welcomed into the kitchen.

Shafa Cracking Eggs with Chef Gori

Now, it’s time to get some eager hands in the dough and practice those skills with this easy recipe, suitable for grade-schoolers.

Soft Pretzels

Soft Pretzels

Ingredients:

3 ½ cups flour
4 tbsp brown sugar
2 tsp salt
1 tbsp yeast, dissolved in
1 cup water, (50 degrees—warm, not hot)
Kosher salt

Dip and egg wash:
1 cup of water, mixed with 2 tsp baking soda in a small bowl

Egg, beaten with 1 tsp H2O in small bowl for wash

Mix water and yeast, brown sugar and salt in a large mixing bowl. Let stand five minutes to bubble and proof. Add flour and stir until dough is smooth. Add more if sticky. Cover with plastic wrap and let the bowl sit for an hour or longer (even in refrigerator overnight) to allow dough to rise.

Divide dough into 12 pieces on counter. Roll each piece into a pencil rope. Shape dough into pretzel—loop, twist ends and drape across bottom—and place on parchment paper on a cookie sheet. Repeat with remaining dough pieces. Let the pretzels rise for 45 minutes to double in size. Gently dip each pretzel into soda water solution, and then, brush with egg. Sprinkle with kosher salt.

Bake pretzels in hot oven, 230 degrees for 12-15 minutes. Brush with melted butter, if desired.

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Annali Hayward endured hours staring into her husband’s eyes to bring you our definitive list of Indonesia’s most romantic restaurants. Pick one of these and you’re golden for another year.

TOP PICK: Emilie Restaurant

www.emilierestaurant.com

Jl. Senopati 39, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta 12910

T: +62 (0)21 5213626

Warning, big statement: Mr. Yen at Emilie may just achieve the highest standard of cuisine in Jakarta today. If any Michelin inspectors accidentally found themselves this far south of Singapore, they’d make a beeline for this place and immediately grant what he deserves.

Simply put, he knows what he’s doing and executes it flawlessly.

Not for him, the inexplicable stacks of mismatched ingredients with artistic dribbles of sauce-on-a-slate in the name of modernity – a malaise now tainting even these shores. Instead, Emilie serves considered, well-balanced, original dishes. It’s French, but this is not ‘French classic with a twist’—a shudder-inducing menu descriptor if ever I saw one—it’s better than that.

We started with Hokkaido scallops which were—hallelujah!—perfect to the millisecond, with crayfish and local baby beetroots on a sea-urchin royale. A delight on both plate and palate. The classic Provençale snails in garlic butter were tastily tender, not at all the little bullets you get at the hands of lesser mortals. These, along with the orange-infused crème brûlée for dessert, proved the kitchen’s ability to stay true-to-form with French classics.

Do me a favour, order something different for your main here; don’t plump for the de rigeur steak—though undoubtedly divine—when there is pigeon, duck and lamb on offer. The herb-crusted lamb saddle was one of the most well-conceived dishes I’ve tasted recently. Every element, from the Romanesque cauliflower (a real find here) to the fondant potato, layered beautifully over the garlicky-mint flavours. The pigeon was superb in its consommé of smoked pigeon stock, fennel and a hint of cumin. Just the right side of unusual for the Jakarta dining scene and I urge you to try it – it even came with a delicious surprise: a whole confit pigeon leg.

When customs are cooperating there is excellent cheese to savour. Besides the crème brûlée we sampled a perfect, authentic tarte au citron, alongside a selection from the luxury teas and coffees on offer.

The extensive wine list is by region (even the Champagne), and is quite rightly geared to the Old World. By the glass the quality is better than most and the price reasonable.

Although Emilie is just one standalone restaurant, service here is of a standard to comfortably compete with the top hotels and bigger restaurant groups of Jakarta. The Jaya Ibrahim décor creates an intimate, sophisticated atmosphere perfect for your tête-à-tête.

ROMANCE-O-METER: 

GO FOR: The fantastic food

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Château Blanc

www.chateaublanc.co.id

Jl. Senopati Raya No. 38, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta 12930

T: +62 (0)21 7229738

The fine-dining jewel in the Mount Scopus Group’s crown, Château Blanc approaches French cuisine differently. Here, the opulent Louis-XV décor does a lot of the talking: gold, silver, brocade, candles, flowers and marble abound. The designers spared no expense, and with Georges Brassens and Edith Piaf crooning in the background, this unmistakeably Gallic ambience is tailor-made for l’amour.

Chef Ivan Tarrago is actually from Barcelona, and I think he’d agree there’s a Mediterranean influence in his menu, which utilises both classic and modern French techniques. I also detected the faintest nod to Asian ingredients and tastes. Take, for example, one of our main courses, Atlantic scallops: these were speared with Flores vanilla pods, which pleasingly did not overpower the saffron risotto cake and green-pea velouté.

First was a superb asparagus gazpacho, with gorgonzola sorbet stirred in – very refreshing. Next, perfectly al dente ravioli stuffed with a surprisingly sweet corn filling, complemented by black-truffle butter and parmesan foam. These two dishes display that Mediterranean flair – gazpacho and ravioli being originally Italian. But it works in the ambience and was consummately executed.

Along with the scallops, we enjoyed roasted Australian lamb ‘rack’ (really more of a cutlet), with lovely baby girolles and broad beans, Merguez sausage and a curry-leaf infused jus. Again, these latter ingredients were suggestions of the exotic rather than overwhelming flavours—though the Merguez was spicy—and it worked for me.

Dessert exhibited Tarrago’s creativity and modernity: tea and milk-chocolate ‘smooth cream’, grapefruit jellies, caramelized hazelnuts and hazelnut dust. The techniques and skill on display here are impressive, and the dish appealed on texture as much as taste.

The wine list is mid-to top-end, and naturally heavily French, particularly reds. With such a beautiful VIP room available, it’s not surprising General Manager Andrea Giannini relates with excitement of opening a few bottles of Pétrus in his time here. Service was great too. Overall a special choice for Valentine’s Day.

ROMANCE-O-METER: 

GO FOR: The French fine-dining ambience

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Gaia by Oso Ristorante

www.gaia-indonesia.com

ALTITUDE, The Plaza, 46th floor, Jl. M.H. Thamrin Kav. 28–30, Jakarta 10350

T: +62 (0)21 29922448

In need of a show-stopper to impress on Valentine’s Day? This could be the spot. Altitude, the 46^th-floor development opened in April 2013, has three restaurants. The Italian offering, Gaia, has 120 covers but despite its size can still feel intimate – especially if you snag a corner table by the floor-to-ceiling windows and drink in the sparkling lights of the Big Durian, laid out in 180-degree splendour beneath you.

It’s not all about the view though. Chef Nazario Orlando is from Puglia, the ‘heel’ of Italy, with its miles of Mediterranean coastline. Not surprising then that seafood features so heavily in this Northern-Italian menu – and Orlando is a stickler for crustacean quality. Like all chefs in Jakarta he imports a lot (look out for the Fine de Clair oysters on the Valentine’s Day menu), but he also gets his sea urchin and octopus from Lombok.

We sampled the Valentines’ Day menu. The starter’s winner was the home-smoked, beetroot-marinated salmon. This was accompanied by a scallop in the shell with caviar and dill, plus asparagus and truffle hollandaise – a real aphrodisiac appetiser! Next we were pleased to see angel-hair pasta in a good lobster bisque sauce, with a raw amaebi prawn and—a nice touch—caramelised chilli. For the main, a generously-sized beef tenderloin was topped with a seared piece of succulent foie gras, adorned with figs and green beans on a bed of polenta and a port-and-truffle gravy. A decadent main course fit for the occasion – hence the light zabaglione for dessert was a good contrast. At Rp.1,000,000++ per person, this is also one of the better value-for-money options for the 14^th.

For Jakarta standards the food was well executed and the service not bad; one can only imagine the challenges of managing a large kitchen for so many covers here. But Chef Orlando’s enthusiasm for his work was infectious – he’s the perfect host for a romantic night.

ROMANCE-O-METER: 

GO FOR: The stunning view

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Lara Djonggrang

www.tuguhotels.com/restaurants/jakarta/laradjonggrang

Jl. Teuku Cik Di Tiro 4, Menteng, Jakarta 10350

T: +62 (0)21 3153252

Asian cuisine is not often first for romance. Between fish sauce and stinky tofu, parts of this culinary canon encourage distance rather than canoodling. But there is something sensual about teasingly proffering your loved one a stick of sate, sweet with spicy sauce – especially in the surroundings of Lara Djonggrang.

The very name of this place breathes passion into the evening’s proceedings. The greatest romances are often the tragedies, and this story of the heartbroken princess and love-crazed prince opens the menu.

The restaurant’s ‘imperial’ Javanese cuisine aims to recall the legendary Majapahit era. They certainly succeed in ambience, with many nooks and crannies in the interconnecting, regal rooms in which to hide and behave badly.

The food, though not quite all Javanese, is imaginatively presented and on the whole well-flavoured. We chose Sop Buntut: fragrant and nourishing. Sate Ayam came on a wooden boat with sambal-filled shells, and was skilfully spiced. Beef rendang was unctuous and rich as expected, though perhaps a little oily. A pleasing contrast was the Karedok Sunda; very sweet, but refreshing. We tried Serabi Pandan Wangi Sore for dessert—coconut-pandan pancakes in a sweet soup—which was light and aromatic.

If you’re full of foie gras and past pasta, this is a great alternative for V-Day, when they will serve a special menu including wines for Rp.750,000++ per couple.

ROMANCE-O-METER: 

GO FOR: The dark corners

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PICKS OUTSIDE JAKARTA:

MEDAN

• Say it with steak: Prime Steak House, J.W. Mariott Medan, +62 (0)61 41006600
• Fusion for two: The Edge, Swiss-Belhotel Medan, Jl. S. Parman Medan, +62 (0)61 4576999

SURABAYA

• Home of hip: Domicile Kitchen & Lounge, Jl. Sumatera 35, Surabaya 60281, +62 (0)31 5016900
• French-y feast: Citrus Lee, Jl. Kutai no. 12, Surabaya 60241, +62 (0)31 5615192

YOGYAKARTA

• Indo intrigue: Gadjah Wong, Jl. Gejayan Soropadan 79-D, Sleman, Yogyakarta 55281, +62 (0)274542815

BALI

If you can’t find a romantic restaurant in Bali, there’s something wrong with you! But if you really need help, our top picks are:

• Fine-diner flair: Mozaic, Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud, Kecamatan Gianyar, Bali 80571, +62361975768

• Coastal cosy: Kisik Bar & Grill, Ayana Resort & Spa, Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, Bali 80364, +62361702222

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Our expert epicure continues an undercover operation to bring you the truth about Jakarta’s dining scene. No spoon is left unturned in the quest for honest, balanced reviews, from long-established favourites to the hottest new tables in town.

This month, pseudo-pub, Queens Head Jakarta.

Ah, the pub. Is there any British cultural institution more important? If you let it, the humble pub can give you everything: home, community, sustenance, diversion. There’s nothing better than a bitter by the fire after a winter’s walk, or a summery Pimm’s in the beer garden. The folks over at Queens Head chose a pub’s name, and English-inspired dishes, to bring the iconic British drinking-hole up to date in Jakarta. A great idea. Only they missed by several thousand miles – so much so that I doubt the pub concept was ever really their intention.

The interior is more Seminyak than Sheffield. It’s beautiful, don’t get me wrong, but quite what it’s got to do with HRH, or her Royal head, I don’t know. A small forest has surely been cleared for the bare-wood-panelled walls, and a less-than-small fortune has been splurged on the rest of the décor – this place is aimed squarely at the young, rich and beautiful Jakarterati, and it means business. Most of the space is given over to the bar and lounge areas, with a dancefloor and DJ booth tucked under a glass roof. The dining area enjoys a view of the kitchen’s pass, where current Chef Blake Thornley can frequently be seen (and heard) barking out orders in Bahasa.

Thornley – a Kiwi – is a graduate of Chris Salans’ Mozaic Ubud, and it shows in the intent of his food, if not always the execution. When Queens Head opened in January there was considerable buzz: the owner is Steve Collinson of Ku De Ta, so it was promising from the off. At first, the menu was straight-up pub grub, and it was great – a really welcome, new addition to the Jakarta restaurant scene. But Thornley’s appointment took things in an unabashedly ‘fusion’ direction. Gone are the pies and the fish cakes. In their place is Tom Yum soup and Beef Rendang Tortellini, furthering the Kuta-meets-Kings-Cross theme.

After ordering, complimentary bread appeared with a lovely herbed butter – a nice touch. Sadly the rolls were little pellets more readily found on economy-class airplane meals: possibly yesterday’s, crisped up in the oven. Still, the thought was there.

Starters were Tuna Tataki (Rp.80,000) and Roast Pumpkin Salad (Rp.75,000). The tuna itself had – strangely – a very slightly unpleasant flavour, even though the long-pepper crust was interestingly distinctive. It came with compressed watermelon which really just tasted exactly like cubes of watermelon, so-so soba noodles and a pleasant ponzu dressing. The salad was sparse. I enjoyed the Middle-Eastern-spiced pumpkin and almonds, but the herb cheese was an imperceptible smear on the wooden board, and the rocket was watercress. Otherwise, this was not a bad dish for a light starter.

For mains, there’s a short selection of sort-of pub classics: Fish and Chips, Tandoori Chicken, steak. More interesting is their Roasts section, offering either a sharing portion or a one-person plate of belly pork, lamb, beef or chicken. This is a great idea in theory and rare in Indonesia. Just a few tweaks and it’d be really good: better cuts of meat, proper gravies and sides, and Bob’s your uncle. As it was, the miso-mustard gravy with the Belly Pork (Rp.190,000) was a little bitter and the fat-to-meat ratio was more-than-usually skewed to fat, although the crackling was fabulous. Potato gratin on the side was slightly burned but surprisingly still tasty (Rp.35,000).

Fish and Chips (Rp.140,000) should have been better than it was. Gindara fillets were in a heavy, yellow batter that unfortunately was 95 percent soggy rather than chip-shop crispy. The hand-cut chips were chunky but seemed like they’d been cooked at two different intervals hours apart. The mushy peas were simply mashed without seasoning, but the tartare sauce was good.

Desserts here used to be Victoria Sponge and Eton Mess, but now the Mozaic blueprint is evident: kemangi jellies, lime gels and curry leaves adorn the dishes. Chargrilled Bandung Pineapple (Rp.60,000) was a little bland, but well presented and a generous portion. Chocolate Curry Parfait (Rp.65,000) was intriguing and enjoyable – just a hint of the spice came through, contrasting well with the banana purée.

It’s possible it was an off-day, but service – when it remembered it had a job – was achingly slow. 10 minutes for a beer, and a glass of wine failed to show up at all. I suspect this is because they actually do have talented, innovative bartenders and a comprehensive drinks list. This means wait times go up – not ideal, especially when it wasn’t even busy.

There’s room for improvement but in general the bar is impressive: they understand that a cocktail is only as good as its worst ingredient, and therefore use top-quality liquors instead of cheating you with the cheap stuff.

There’s also Guinness on tap. If Queens Head succeeds nowhere else, it is at least an appealing alternative to Koi for lively late-night drinks.

This, however, affects the comfort level of those who come here to dine. There is a tendency for the space to feel hot, loud, and smoky. There’s not a lot management can do about that, but installing a few more ACs would help.

Overall, I would go back – the value for money is not bad. But I do wish they would pick one concept and go with it. If it’s Jl. Petitenget-style mod-Asian cuisine they think will bring the bucks, be my guest and compete with the myriad other joints in town offering the same. But I for one would love to see Queens Head do proper British pub grub, elevated. I guarantee the hundreds of expat residents of South Jakarta would, too.

Food: Rp.675,000

Drinks: Rp.250,000

Service: 10%

Total: Rp.1,119,250 (inc. taxes) for two

+62 (0) 21 7196160 www.queensheadjakarta.com

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Middle class Indonesians are really starting to enjoy drinking wine, and this can be seen in the opening of many wine shops and bars since the early 2000s. VIN+ is a pioneer in the wine retailer industry in Indonesia, and since its opening in 2004, the brand has expanded to five outlets across Jakarta and Bali. We meet General Manager of VIN+ Kemang, Central Park and Street Gallery, Yolanda Liz Simorangkir, to find out the secrets to its success, and if the business has been affected by the alcohol tax spikes of last year.

When we hear the name VIN+, we automatically think of wine. Can you tell us the story of how the business was born and has developed over the years?

In the early 2000s, there were only duty free wine shops available, which only catered to specific customers like expatriates, diplomats and some affluent Indonesians. Basically, wines were mostly consumed by these specific customers. However, after the economy crisis of 1998, we discovered that many locals from the middle class and upwards were starting to inquire and wanted to purchase wines.

We assumed the interest in purchasing wines at the time was due to the fact that these people were exposed to wines while they were studying abroad, and when the economic crisis hit they were forced to return to Indonesia. After being away, they probably had adapted to the lifestyle of drinking wine and wanted to maintain this here in Indonesia. They began looking for places that sell wine but were not able to have full access to the existing duty free shops. This is when VIN+ was established; a wine shop with a large wine selection to cater to both expatriates and locals. The first VIN+ outlet was opened in Kemang in November, 2004.

What are your company’s core values?

Our core values are to provide the best selection of wines and services to cater to all levels; from the beginners who are just discovering wines, to people with sophisticated palates.

How successful has your concept – that of a wine shop accompanied by a bar serving wine and food – been?

This concept has been very successful. After the first couple of years since our inception, the shop was doing extremely well, but customers were also now looking for a place to drink their wines. In 2006, we decided to expand VIN+ into a wine venue; a retailer, lounge and restaurant offering a place to drink wine and enjoy food as well. Since we launched this model, we have seen many venues with similar concepts open throughout Indonesia. One of them is Cork and Screw, and many others.

The first VIN+ was opened in Kemang, Jakarta. How many outlets do you have today and how many staff work for you?

We have four outlets in Jakarta and one in Bali. In total we have five outlets with about 300 staff working for us.

What differences do you see in VIN+ Seminyak Bali and your branches in Jakarta?

The concept is all the same; the only differences are the customer profile and the interior and layout. In Bali we cater not only to Bali residents but also to tourists. In general, people in Bali prefer to drink white wine and in Jakarta they prefer reds. Our Bali outlet has a spacious outdoor area and in Jakarta all areas are enclosed and air-conditioned.

Do you have separate smoking and non-smoking areas in your restaurants?

Yes, we do.

Let’s talk about wine. Has VIN+ seen a decline in sales since the hike in alcohol taxes last year? How are you dealing with this challenge?

The increase in alcohol taxes has not had a great impact on total sales revenue. What it does do is make it difficult to sell high-end wines due to the high selling price. However, the market continues to grow.

We are very much involved in lobbying and petitioning the government to come up with a win-win solution to all (consumers, retailers and the government). This is an ongoing process.

Do you foresee any further price changes being handed down by the government?

Of course, the government always wants to improve earnings by increasing taxes, but by doing so it will only encourage people to smuggle, which becomes another problem. Whether or not another increase will go through remains to be seen.

What is the most popular wine you sell?

Wines with a sweeter taste are very popular, like Moscato, Lambrusco, and wines with a selling price below Rp.500,000.

Do you face challenges when importing wines? Do regulations frequently change?

There are always challenges when importing wines, but we are quite experienced and confident since we have been in the business for more than 10 years. And yes, regulations do change frequently.

Where are the majority of your clientele from? And how many guests do you see on average on a busy month?

Our majority clienteles are locals; 90 percent local and 10 percent expatriate. On average we see about 3,000 transactions take place in our stores each month.

What are the high and low seasons in your trade?

The high seasons are February (Chinese New Year and Valentine’s Day), April and May (the wedding seasons), November (Thanksgiving), and, of course, December (Christmas and New Year’s).

The low seasons are January, as people tend to cut back after the long holidays and end-of-year celebrations, and June to August, during the school holidays.

Do you have any events coming up in the future?

In Kemang, every Monday in January is ‘Hot Monday’, where members get 50 percent off of Sirloin Grain Fed Steak (for members only), and this special offer changes every month.

In our Kemang, Pondok Indah and Central Park branches, we have Winderful Deal every day, where you can enjoy wine by the glass at only Rp.50,000++.

Our most well-known event takes place monthly, where we have one day of free wine tasting open to the public. This usually happens in the middle of each month and dates for the next event are to be announced.

Each month, we will be highlighting different selected wines or new arrival wines with special promotion discount of 20 percent, which is available at all VIN+ outlets in Jakarta. In January, we are highlighting selected variants of D’Arenberg wine.

What do you love most about your job? What do you look forward to at work every day?

I love the products we sell – wine! I enjoy sharing with the market as well as educating our staff and team on the products, as well as how to sell the products. I also really love meeting new customers. There is no limit to learning about wine and I think wine brings people together.

Thank you, Yolanda. For more information, please contact Yolanda on: yolanda@vinplus.biz

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Ma Joly is arguably one of Bali’s most famous places for a romantic sunset getaway. The name itself illustrates sweetness, taken from the French phrase ma jolie, which means ‘my pretty’.

But it’s not only the name that has made Ma Joly such a legendary place for celebrating amour. The place itself exhales love; the setting, the ambience, and, surprisingly, the location. Although this restaurant is found in Kuta, an area synonymous with noise pollution and traffic, the complete opposite is what you’ll find at Ma Joly. I’ve been living in Bali for about a decade and have visited many great places in beautiful locations, but I’m still surprised that this enchanting place can still be found in Kuta. It is like a lush oasis that flows with pure loving energy.

I visited Ma Joly to experience a sweet sunset escape, in the hopes that I could refill the amorous energy that seems to be lacking in me lately. To get there, head towards what people call Pantai German, or German Beach, just a stone’s throw away from the international airport of Ngurah Rai. Right before you enter the alley to the beach, take a right turn that will end at The Sandi Phala Hotel and Ma Joly Restaurant.

I stepped inside the Pergola entrance and was immediately greeted by the fresh scent of the sea breeze, with flowing curtains and climbing plants decorating the aisles. I was stunned by this welcome view that left me feeling like I had entered a fairyland.

Ma Joly is an open-air restaurant that provides a luxurious yet laidback setting, allowing you to enjoy French fine dining and friendly Balinese weather. The restaurant is separated into three sections: Dining Room, Pergola and the beach area. A good place to start would be at the bar, where one can order classic or inventive concoctions and sit comfortably under lush trees while enjoying the soft afternoon sunshine. Sunset is the climax of the day in Bali, and a place like Ma Joly refines this experience with its subtle atmosphere and happy hour that continues from 2pm until 7pm. On my visit, the soothing sounds of jazz lifted my mood.

With an aperitif in one hand and God’s canvas ahead of me, this is how we, the residents of Bali, enjoy our afternoons.

The dining room at Ma Joly, Bali

Taking the authentic Balinese style architecture and semi open-air setting as inspiration, Ma Joly’s Dining Room décor is accentuated with Balinese Kamasan-style paintings, chandeliers, a thatched roof and flowing curtains, creating vibes of a Balinese palace.

The second area, Pergola, is everyone’s favourite area to have dinner. It isn’t private, but once you take a seat and take in the pretty French-Italian setting with a tropical twist, you won’t notice the presence of other people sitting next to you.

Not only did they showcase their obsession with romance and a Garden of Eden in their décor, Ma Joly also surprised me with their intricate details on a plate. I was served a Prawn Salad, an appetizer that reminded me of a happy marine garden; five fat fresh prawns beautifully set with potato, green salad and zucchini. It is light to start, but the sweet taste of the yellow egg yolk sauce added a depth to the flavour, perfectly accentuated with a sprinkling of caviar and small chunks of dill leaves.

And it seems the inspiration didn’t stop there. ‘Seafood garden’ continued to be the theme for my main course, and this time the chef sent out a sunset on a plate with the Salmon Roulette, each roll filled with pesto and creamy beetroot sauce at its base. Pink was the main colour, and if I could illustrate the flavour in one word it would be ‘sultry’.

Salmon Roulette at Ma Joly | Photo by Intan Tanjung

My sojourn finally came to an end when a plate of Lava Cake was served at my table. I am fond of this particular lava cake, and it was surprisingly delightful to learn that this cake isn’t made from chocolate, but green tea. Although it is unusual, I was happy to discover, when I tucked into the moist treat, that it hadn’t lost its richness, and the flavour was elevated with the addition of coffee ice cream and sour candy on the side. It’s a perfect twist and balance, giving just the right amount of sweetness, sourness and bitterness in one spoon. This dessert was my ultimate romance.

As I savoured my supper, I observed a couple having a romantic candlelit dinner in a private tent on the beach. Their faces glowed, and the velvety dusk sky in the background made the perfect setting for their romantic dinner. I’m sure that Ma Joly has witnessed more than a thousand romantic scenes since it first opened 11 years ago; it’s hard to not fall in love when you’re engulfed in such perfect scenery. With the beach, the sunset, a luxurious and delicious supper, this is romance a la Ma Joly, and love is just another way to share this beauty.

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When I first set foot in Applebee’s at Plaza Senayan Mall, I was taken by surprise when I saw the hip décor and modern atmosphere. Gone were the bright and playful family-oriented furnishings from my suburban childhood memories in California.

The Applebee’s I knew has completely transformed into a stylish grill and bar over the years. However, it retained the kind of friendliness and scrumptiousness from the early days that provided some reassurance, much like seeing and bear-hugging an old friend from long past.

Americans are quick to recognize the famous red apple branded restaurant in every community and rely on the hearty, lip-smacking bar snacks and comfort food to satisfy appetites for each member of the family. In high school, I recall there wasn’t a week that would go by that my friends and I didn’t abscond from campus activities to the Applebee’s down the road and gorge on boneless chicken wings and fried mozzarella sticks. The Applebee’s staff would always give us the booth in the back, where we could hide away from watchful adult eyes as servers brought refills of our favourite drinks. I suppose we never found ourselves in much trouble as we spent our afternoons laughing and eating since there were more debauched activities in which we could have immersed our teenaged selves.

I explained all of this to my husband as we sat at this new restaurant, as he did not understand the cultural significance or share the same references from some of the menu items that made me giggle with delight. He, being a Kiwi, never grew up knowing the wonders of a neighbourhood Applebee’s. Perhaps it was also the location at Plaza Senayan in which this particular restaurant is found that brought the flood of memories back; after all, it was tucked discreetly away in a cul de sac on the fifth floor, away from the hustle and bustle of the main mall.

Cocktails and Beer at Applebee’s

The dedicated bar is fully stocked to provide quality cocktails and beer, with skilled bartenders who are eager to satisfy any beverage request. On this occasion, we ordered the Red Apple Sangria and a Classic Margarita. The fruity sangria came in a bulbous glass almost as large as our heads. This particular concoction could have easily served two people, but my husband happily finished it in due time. The margarita was tart and bright; there is nothing more refreshing than a good margarita on the rocks served in a glass with a heavily salted rim.

Muted television screens displayed sports in certain areas of the dining room, playing to the lunchtime crowd of families and office workers on their midday break. There was a platform with turntables and speakers, which was interesting.

I never knew Applebee’s to be so trendy, but there we were, asking about the Friday night DJ and chatting about the music he would be spinning.

The food menu was a little booklet of classic and new Applebee’s fare. Those longing for quesadillas, steaks, baby back pork ribs and chicken wings will still be able to order them here in Jakarta. However, there was also a variety of other flavours and dishes to explore. We ordered the Pork Chop with Apple Chutney and Brisket Beef Burger. Everything about the meal was fine-tuned, in only the way that some flavours can bring upon a nostalgic sensory journey. Our thick-cut, bone-in pork chop was grilled on open flames, tender and juicy with a Cajun kick. It’s paired well with sweet apple chutney. The brisket burger was as immense as it was delicious. Slices of juicy Australian beef brisket were piled high with red cheddar cheese, jalapenos, tangy BBQ sauce and slaw, topped with a perfectly fried egg. One definitely required wet naps to wipe away the dribbles of sauces, but it was an extremely satisfying burger. That it was also created by William Gozali, the winner of MasterChef Indonesia 3, is a testament to the creativity and ability to attract the young, local market of this new Applebee’s concept.

Burger briscket

Although Applebee’s in Indonesia seems to be a cooler and hipper version of what I remember all those years ago, I am willing to bet that people still go for the friendly faces, the relaxed ambiance and solid meals.Families with young children sat elbow to elbow with young couples on dates. Small groups of office workers chatted away whilst munching on the special lunch combos that were a bargain for a create-your-own-two-course meal and fountain drink. It all made me feel spritely again: young, carefree and happy to be tasting a little bit of Americana, even though I was all the way on the other side of the world, albeit this time a little older and wiser (and not shunning my academic responsibilities).

Applebee’s Grill and Bar

Plaza Senayan Mall, Floor 5

Jalan Asia Afrika, Senayan, Jakarta

Telephone: 021 2970 4981 ext. 544

Hours: 11.30am – 11pm

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Few fine dining venues in Bali have distinguished themselves with such flair and inspiration as Ubud’s award-winning Mozaic Restaurant run by Chef Chris Salans. Chris was born in the U.S., but moved to France with his parents at age two. As a small boy, he used to sit at the kitchen counter watching his mother cook traditional French dishes. Chris returned to the U.S. for college, then went back to France to train at such prestigious restaurants as the l’Oustau de Baumaniere, Bouley’s Bakery and Louis Carton in Paris. Later in his career he worked as a chef at various David Bouley establishments in New York and at Thomas Keller’s French “Bouchon” bistro in California’s Napa Valley before discovering the secrets of Asian ingredients and opening the Mozaic in 2001. Ever since its acceptation as a member of the exclusive French culinary association Les Grandes Tables du Monde in 2004, the restaurant’s French-Asian fare, served in a 60-seat garden pavilion, has become a showcase for Chris’s du marche “market cooking” style, which takes prime in-season ingredients and incorporates them into a range of French dishes presented in high gastronomic style. Chris’s new cookbook Mozaic: French Cuisine, Balinese Flavors was published by Editions Didier Millet in 2011.

What inspires you to cook?
The inspiration comes from the fresh produce arriving daily at Mozaic, my walks through the night markets, my trips through the wilderness of Bali or just from eating out at local eateries where Indonesian flavours are the most genuine.

Do you use any secret sauces or ingredients?
I have only one secret: my passion for the ingredients and for excellence in food creation and service. I haven’t invented anything so there are no secrets. I think that each chef translates recipes or flavours the way he or she perceives them. I guess that many people like the way I portray the flavours.

Does Mozaic serve what would be considered “health food”?
I would say that most of my food is not too high in fat. Fats are used to cook with but are discarded and not served to the guest. As I myself have high cholesterol I have learned to cook with less saturated fat but in the end you’ve got to have some butter to make the food taste better! As the old saying goes “the three secrets to French cuisine is butter, butter and butter!”

What is your personal favourite on the menu?
I can’t say I have a favourite. We change the menu daily depending on arrivals of fresh ingredients, so we have a long list of signature dishes. But I can definitely tell you, when it comes to Balinese tastes, my favourites are base gede, kecicang, kecombrang and belimbing buluh.

Where do you do your shopping?
There is no longer any mystery as to where to find imported ingredients. Bali now has a number of outstanding imported food outlets. For local ingredients, please go to the market in your area! Rediscover why you are in Bali, meet the people, see what fresh ingredients they have but you have to get there very early in the morning to get the freshest pick!

What gave you the idea to write a cookbook?
I have been thinking about a book for a few years, but never had the time until I decided to finally sit down and work on it last year. There were so many factors to consider – which recipes and ingredients to include, writing down my recipes and making them easy to use at home, making sure the flow was interesting, choosing the right photos so that the dishes were represented properly. The book took over a year from initial planning until we went to press. It was all tough but in retrospect the whole exercise was very interesting.

What was the most enjoyable part of working on the project?
The satisfaction of having directed the team working on the book towards the goal I wanted to achieve. Every member – the writer, the photographer, the editor and the graphic artists – were key to making the book a success. Once I realized that the team achieved what I wanted, it was extremely satisfying and fulfilling.

Are there recipes in your cookbook that are not found in Mozaic’s menu?
Since we don’t have a fixed menu at the restaurant, you can say many of the recipes in the book are not found at Mozaic. They were at some point in time, and may reappear some day. It’s a menu in constant evolution, so who knows!

In your mind, what is your cookbook’s greatest value?
Helping readers discover beautiful new ingredients and giving them ideas on how to develop recipes for their enjoyment. Most cookbooks write about exiting traditional dishes, but I wanted to take the reader to another level. Instead of teaching the recipe for rendang, I prefer showing how to get that superb taste and include it in a dish which is western in allure, yet is reminiscent of rendang’s deep spices and richness.

The dishes pictured in your book look very elegant and fancy. Are these recipes difficult to prepare in the home?
You’ll see from the legend that some recipes are rated with one or two small forks. We chose that symbol to identify the recipe’s degree of difficulty.  The one fork should be no great difficulty if you read the method instructions carefully. For recipes that are rated as more difficult, basically I would say that either a good knowledge of cooking techniques or a few practices of the recipes might be needed. In the end Mozaic’s cuisine is not simple to reproduce. If it were, then Mozaic would not be what it is today!

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No, it’s not a typo. There are two reasons why this new swanky hip spot is missing an ‘H’ to its name. Reason one being management didn’t want guests to say, “Let’s meet at the hotel lobby” and then be confused as to which hotel this would mean. Reason two would be that their resident Master Mixologist, Benjamin Browning, is from the U. S. of A. and isn’t a fan of pronouncing the ‘H’. Us Brits won’t judge you, we promise….

The concept of this trendy gastro pub is exactly as it says on the tin—a hotel lobby.

When you enter, you meet a reception desk where the DJ spins in the evenings, watched over by a magnificent hanging spider-esque chandelier.

On reception there are fresh red apples in a bowl for guests to get a rush from when slipping one in their purse while nobody’s looking. Behind the reception desk, a white curved wall is projected with black and white movies, which is unique to this city.

Black is everywhere, radiating the masculine sexiness of this Lobby—the walls are black, the floor is black and the ceiling is black. To the left of you a stunning bar and to the right a 120 seating capacity restaurant with a section on a slightly elevated area with round rock n’ roll yet chic diner booths and leather sofas. It’s evident that a lot of thought went into designing and building Otel Lobby and influences seem to come from all across the globe.

So, who are the masterminds behind this new restaurant? Two ladies, yes ladies.

The gorgeous Maya Aldy, Head Chef and Co-Owner, and Gaby Bakrie, Restauranteur, Publisher and Humanitarian. This dynamic duo wanted to create a place that serves good food, good drinks and a good place to have a good time with friends and family with excellent service, meaning they should never really say no to any request—except six foot something Browning who will deny you a drink if you’re staggering up to the bar and slurring your words, so stay on the ball, folks. Browning has 12 years experience in the hospitality industry, working with names like Jose Andres in Beverly Hills and Word of Mouth in Bali, making this team unstoppable really. Watch this space.

If you want to try the best cocktails in the country, come here. If you don’t agree that their cocktails are the best, I want to hear from you. Shaken for 6 seconds only, my Burning Mandarin (served in a Martini glass) was a phenomenal mix of Mandarin Vodka, fresh lemon, orange and chilies. The final sip gave me a good kick up the backside. We also had the Herb n’ Bourbon (pronounced Erb n’ Bourbon by Browning), a blend of rosemary, mint, basil, fresh orange, lemon, honey, Angostura Bitters and the almighty Jim Beam, served with hand-cut ice so as not to dilute the drink. It’s like a party on your tongue and you’re invited. I also sampled the amazing home-brewed cider. Yes, you heard right, cider is available in Indonesia! I have always loved cider with a passion, and find it so frustrating that it isn’t available anywhere here. Now life is complete.

The food menu is small, but that isn’t a bad thing. Mains include Beef Wellington, Tenderloin Steak, a Mushroom Duxelle wrapped in puff pastry and Oxtail Soup, all at extremely affordable prices. It’s refreshing to come to a nice place that doesn’t hike up the prices just for the privilege of being in the venue. Almost all the ingredients are local, a policy of Maya’s and she hopes this will become a trend that more restaurants consider in Indonesia. Let’s hope this vision becomes a reality.

Then there came the desserts. We sampled a delicious, moist Banana Cake with caramel served with a shot glass of frozen milk and a mini straw followed by a Chocolate and Cherry Pudding with chocolate sauce and luscious homemade ice creams, homemade being the operative word as everything at Otel Lobby is made from scratch. If you get cold, the staff will hand you a pashmina and if you struggle to read the menus, you’ll be given a pair of reading glasses. This is customer service.

The Lobby will have a special Christmas menu, which you can enjoy along with their beautiful hot cider on Christmas Eve or on Christmas day for brunch. For those partygoers out there, why not try this chic spot for New Year’s Eve? If anything, come to check out the originality of the interior and take advantage of their weekday happy hour, offering 2 for 1 on cocktails and appetizers. A win win for everyone!

Check in to the Otel. You don’t need a key.

Otel Lobby

The Annex Building of Bakrie Tower

Epicentrum-Kuningan, Jakarta

Ph. (+62) 21 29 94 13 24

Web. www.otellobby.com

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Our local food producers are island treasures. Practicing sustainable agricultural techniques and using pure ingredients with no preservatives or genetically modified additives, Bali’s organic growers and producers of wholesome home-grown products are essential for promoting environmentally responsible consumption in Bali’s ever growing population. The “Big Food” and “Big Organic” corporations have not yet arrived on Bali, which means that products from small family farms are not in the premium price section of the supermarket. Together, they have proven that healthy cuisine does not have to taste like old tires. Although accounting for only a small percentage of all foods sold, this select group has evolved in response to the lucrative and ever expanding consumer demand for healthy food. Here the focus is not only on food products but also on what niche each producer holds in this specialised but fast growing market.

Aiona

Bunutan Village, Karangasem, tel. 0338-161-730, email: aiona_bali@hotmail.com website: www.aionabali.com.

Jams, mango paste, spices, pure herbal sea salt, homemade granola, Bali saur (grinded organic coconut with spices), organic cookies, kombucha mixed fruit drinks and aloe juices combined with different fruits. Aiona products are made from their own organically grown produce from crops planted and harvested according to the moon rhythms and Balinese holy days. They also run a vegetarian restaurant, guesthouse and offer holistic treatments, readings and spiritual advice.

Alami

Yehembang Kauh, Jembrana, HP 085-237-153-280 (Sayu) or 081 8056 8882 (Ketut), email alambali@gmail.com.

Organic agricultural produce grown by using traditional techniques on a one-hectare plantation in west Bali. Managed by Ketut Adi, products include: sundried coconut, raw cocoa beans, vanilla beans and powder, Virgin Coconut Oil, lemongrass tea, cloves and nutmeg, ginger tea. Alami sells at Ubud Organic Market 9 am-2 pm every Wednesday, Wednesday at Café Arma and on Saturdays at Pizza Bagus. Free home delivery service.

Awani

Jl. Pantai Brawa 47 Tegalgundul, Tibubeneng, tel. +62-361-844 6406 / 62-361-742 3324, email info@awani.com.

Jams, jelly and marmalades in 255 g and 28 g jars made from locally grown fruits. Tropical Blossom Honey in 28-g and 1-kg glass jars. Products are 100% natural with no artificial flavours, colours or preservatives. Available at Bali Deli, Coco Mart, Hardy’s, Canggu Deli, Pause Cafe, Alun Alun. Price list and more information available by email: sales@awani.com (Danti), yusie@awani.com (Yusie). Food service/hospitality establishments are eligible for business discount.

Bali Asli

Lady Garden 11, Jl. Gunung Soputan, Denpasar, tel: 0361-483-994; Pupuan office: 0362- 71306, email: info@baliasli.com, website: http://www.bali-asli.com.

Jams, jellies, marmalades, zesty chutneys, nut butters, honey, seasoned salts, Colloidal Silver. Products made from 100% local fruits, spices and vegetables with no preservatives, colourings or artificial ingredients. Established in 1986, their processing plant is 9 km north of Cempaka Belimbing in the mountains of Pupuan in Tabanan. Jams and jellies are packed with more fruit than most commercial brands so that the sugar content is kept at a minimum, and are more reasonably priced than expensive imported items.

Bali Good Foods

Website www.baligoodfood.com.

This restaurant group that includes Terazo, Batan Waru, Cinta Grill and Siam Sally has its own organic farm.

Bali Rungu

Baturiti, HP 081-338-721-705 (Gede Green); email: balirungu@yahoo.com.

Sells over 60 varieties of vegetables, fruits and herbs to restaurants, hotels, bakeries and supermarkets. Produce grown on a “self-certified” 2.5-ha organic farm in the mountains of Tabanan using “green” manure, composting, mulching and crop rotation permaculture techniques. For photos and additional information, check out Gede’s blog www.baliorganicproject.typepad.com.

Tours Rp.150,000 per person (min. 2) or special price for groups.

Dharma Teas

Jl. Drupadi 25 C, Sumerta Kelod, Denpasar, tel. 0361-255-475, email info@dharma-teas.com, website: www.dharma-teas.com.

Selection of over 40 Premium loose leaf teas and herbal infusions imported from the major tea producing countries including Darjeeling from India, and Ti Kuan Yin, Lapsang Souchong and Jasmine from China. An active member of the Indonesian Tea Board’s campaign, they work closely with several top Indonesian gardens to improve the quality of product and the quality of life for Indonesia’s smallholder tea farmers.

Down To Earth

Jl. Laksamana 99, Seminyak, tel. 0361-736-645/0361-732-080, email: downtoearthdibali@gmail.com, website www.downtoearthbali.com.

The same person who owns Zula owns this vegetarian restaurant, serving nutritious and well-balanced organic food. Wide variety of organic products and dry goods from chickpeas and sesame tahini to hummus and Maca Jahva (a natural alternative to coffee) and hand harvested organic sea salt available in many supermarkets and specialty stores around Kuta, Sanur and Seminyak. Also runs a food processing kitchen and vegetarian gourmet cooking school. Membership (Rp.1 million) qualifies you for a 10% discount for one year.

Juice Ja Cafe

Jl. Dewa Sita, Ubud, tel. 0361-971-056, HP 081-246-609-19 (Suzan), HP 081-337-868-848 (Ibu Rika), email: sariapi@indo.net.id.

Wheatgrass and seeds, dried fruit, juices, cold pressed coconut oil, vanilla, herbal teas, jams, homemade chutneys, salad dressings, kampung-style Balinese rice cakes, handmade palm arak liqueurs, Bali-based organic coffees, cocoa products, vanilla beans and extract, dried snake fruit chips, organic raw chocolates, nut butters, carrot-spice cake and other baked goods. Whenever possible, owner Susan Kohlik always tries to buy locally manufactured products over imported ones. Pricelist at jagajagat.bali@gmail.com. No sales through retailers. Wholesale discounts available.

Kopi Bali

Tel. 0361-720-589, website: www.kopibali.com.

The island’s best known homegrown coffee producer and one of Indonesia’s premier gourmet coffee roasters which cultivates high grade Robusta and Arabica beans in the highlands of Bali and other islands. Using traditional processing methods, beans are pounded by hand to remove the dried husks and kept in a warehouse for a year to mature. No artificial flavours or chemicals added. Sold in Bali’s grocery stores, supermarkets, or exclusively packaged for hotels and duty free shops.

Kue

Jl. Raya Ubud (on Ubud’s main road near post office), tel. 0361-975 249, email kuebakery@windowslive.com.

This artisan bakery/cafe has been producing desserts and European style breads for nine years: 14 different breads daily (including wheat and gluten free), croissants, cakes, pies, tarts, 23 types of handcrafted chocolates and truffles. Kue uses fresh ingredients, organic palm sugar, its own wild yeast starters, no additives, flavour enhancers or artificial leavens.

Sari Organik

Their main restaurant in the hamlet of Abangan is at the end of a 10 minute walk off Ubud’s main road. Tel. 0361 730-1839, hp 081-338-644-037 (Nila), hp 081-238-663-10 (Agung).

Homemade juices, soy milk, kombucha teas, honey, jam, tofu, organic (chemical-free) vegetables and several varieties of rice grown on a model 0.40 ha family-size farm established in 2006. Oded and Nila actually run two businesses: the vegetable and rice growing and sales division and the post-harvest food processing and restaurant division with branches in Penestanan (near Ubud) and in Penelokan (Kintamani).

TJ’s Mexican Restaurant

Gang Poppies I/24, Kuta, tel. 0361-751-093, email: sales@tjsbali.com, website: www.tjsbali.com.

The only 100% locally produced range of Mexican foods in Indonesia: 6” fresh corn tortillas, 8” and 11” fresh flour tortillas, taco shells, cocktail party taco shells, corn tortilla chips, salsas and homemade granola made from the restaurant’s own recipes developed and refined in TJs’ kitchens for over 26 years. TJ’s uses as many organic ingredients as possible, 90% of which are locally grown, with no artificial additives or colourings added.

Verdure

Tel. 0361-999-9372, email info@verdurebali.com, website: www.verdurebali.com.

The first commercial supplier of wheatgrass products (fresh, instant and frozen) in Indonesia.

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My unforgettable memory about Christmas was when I woke up to the scent of roasting turkey in my parents-in-law’s house; everyone was happy, exchanging presents – what wonderful merriment. Christmas is always beautiful, regardless of what the weather is like.

Although I am in Bali now, I know Christmas shouldn’t be missed. So I head to the island’s renowned restaurants to make memories of my special moments, which I hope can be your inspiration to celebrate this special day that only comes once a year with your beloved family.

Chez Gado Gado

Green Asparagus with Ham at Chez Gado Gado

Nothing is more exciting than celebrating Christmas on the beach. Say goodbye to memories of cold winters in higher latitudes; the breeze, the waves of Seminyak Beach and delicious temptations of Chez Gado Gado will grace this special day.

Christmas dining will be presented from 11am to 3pm in three courses on 25th December. Chef Quirijn Rademaker, or Quib, will bring out a tropical seaside Christmas; serving light, fresh and elegant supper onto the tables, and some authentic Christmas cuisines, such as classic prawn cocktails, liver parfaits, green asparagus with ham, and of course roasted turkey. To excite children (and adults too), they will present a centrepiece full of ginger bread.

My favourite option for the starter is chicken liver parfait, which reminds me of the morning after Christmas. I used to sneak into my mother-in-law’s fridge to get her homemade chicken liver pate left over from the day before. At Chez Gado Gado, that memory is brought over; light soft chicken liver comes alive with the refreshing orange chutney, which represents the warm weather over delicious memories of Christmas.

For the main dish, the green asparagus with ham arrives beautifully with a half poached egg, boiled potato and hollandaise sauce sprinkled with chives on top. With this ideal proportion, I don’t have to feel guilty and worry about my full belly to enjoy this special pleasure.

But special treats await with the authentic Christmas pudding and chocolate brownies. Apparently, Chef Quib wants to surprise me with a unique Christmas treat; beautiful jackfruit tiramisu with chocolate ice cream. What else could be better to end this special day?

Christmas lunch at Chez Gado Gado comes at Rp.85k for starter (green asparagus salad / seafood vol-au-vent / classic prawn cocktail / classic beef carpaccio / chicken liver parfait), Rp.150K for mains (mushroom risotto / grilled Seabass / green asparagus with ham / roasted turkey), and Rp.60k for dessert (Christmas pudding / chocolate brownie)

Chez Gado Gado
Jalan Camplung Tanduk 99, Seminyak
0361-736966

Mozaic Beach Club, Batu Belig

Dirty Rosemary at Mozaic Beach Club

Christmas at Mozaic Beach Club Batu Belig is so perfect. Here you can enjoy the perfect atmosphere – elegant, stylish, relaxing, and of course with a wide range of Christmas inspirations served on your plate. This restaurant, which is located next to Batu Belig beach, presents both a four-course lunch and six-course dinner with choices of Asian or classic ingredients.

The scent of rosemary, cinnamon, and truffle – and the laughter of your beloved family – will cure any homesick feelings you may have this time of year. Chef James Ephraim will spoil you with his exceptional cocktail creation called Dirty Rosemary; a glass of vodka mixed with lime combined with the beautiful scent of rosemary and cinnamon, roasted olive and refreshing orange.

For my feast, I choose an Asian inspiration to experience a different Christmas. The first amazing creation is the creamy rempeyek cone. Next, the genius Chef James presents a myriad of Christmas colours on my plate with tuna carpaccio splashed with kaffir lime gel, fresh cucumber and baby lettuce; a very refreshing dish.

The richness of bumbu basa gede with butter-roasted slipper lobster and Iberico ‘Papada’ with thin slices of tempe arrives, and Chef James surprises me by adding slices of white truffles, the scent of which blows my mind away. And when I think it stops there, a plate of foie gras terrine combined with local kemangi and mangosteen comes as another treat. My main course continues with exotic bumbu rending, bringing slow confit venison loin along with Sumatran spiced spinach with rosemary jus.

Another amazing treat arrives on my table; this pave dauphinoire serves an excellent dessert along with cheese and black truffles, red wine ice cream and coconut sable. I can smell the beautiful scent and taste the luxurious palate sensations I will never ever forget. This for sure will become my very best Christmas celebration.

Both four-course lunch menu for Asian and classic ingredients are priced at Rp.650K++ with additional Rp.400K++ for wine pairing.

Six-course dinner menu for both Asian and classic ingredients are priced at Rp.1,000,000++ with additional Rp.400K++ for wine pairing.

A special Christmas cocktail is included in the menu. Christmas special menu will be available from 24-26 December.

Mozaic Beach Club
Jalan Batu Belig
0361-4735796

Métis

Chocolate Cake at Metis

I’ve always loved the tranquil atmosphere of Métis, and I can imagine celebrating Christmas in this serene situation surrounded with lush greens and beautiful ponds in the back of this restaurant. During this special occasion, a wide range of French and Mediterranean specialties will be offered for lunch on Christmas day. Some examples available are yellowfin tuna carpaccio, French oysters or selections of foie gras cooked with different techniques. For those seeking more authentic Christmas treats, Spanish ham “Jamon Iberico Bellota”, grilled rack of lamb, roasted turkey and roasted gammon ham will also be presented.

I try a beautiful starter, steamed crab and royal prawn tartare, combined with parsnip, celery and tarragon mayonnaise sauce. This dish is decorated with the vivid colour of salmon roe, which splashes such balance and complexity to its savoury flavours.

From 24 December to 5 January, Métis prepares special treats to anyone who wants to sample the feast but couldn’t make it to come on the special day, so there is no reason to skip the joy of Christmas. Other temptations served are marinated quail, wild rucola salad, grape fruit, orange and honey vinaigrette arriving as a starter, while other dish such as pan-roasted breast pigeon, leg confit, caramelized endive and Pomme Anna can be a perfect main dish.

Sampling this dinner series, I get to try pan-seared scallops with the soft mascarpone leek risoni and black truffle volouté, decorated with a myriad of pea leaves that remind me of the serene garden of Métis. The flavour of chives bursts in my mouth and soon balances the creamy risoni perfectly.

This Christmas feast is closed perfectly with melted caraibe chocolate cake and vanilla ice cream; I recall my first Christmas Eve, where I tasted this special temptation in a classic pub in suburban England. I sat nearby a fireplace to warm myself from the harsh weather while enjoying melted chocolate and a glass of apple cider. At Métis, the cake is combined with vanilla ice cream, crushed roasted nuts, and a hint of cinnamon that enriches the flavour; a masterpiece that completes my unforgettable memory.

Métis
Jalan Petitenget 6, Kerobokan
0361-4737888

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